No Crank, No Lights, No Click, Battery Not Dead?
What you want to do is try an simulate "as it happened" conditions. I realize this can be difficult, as you can "bump" or wiggle something and complete a bad circuit. You can use that to your advantage.
Be very careful with the cluster out as the ammeter wires are very much "hot" and UNFUSED except for the poor protection of the fuse link.
Your main points of interest are right in the mad article diagram:
Catalog
So, how to check this?
Figure a way to lay the cluster out so you can get to it safely, IE lay it down on cardboard, towels, etc to protect it, and make sure the ammeter connections are "safe."
Hook everything up "per normal" except......I would provide an "emergency disconnect."
One way is to disconnect the battery ground, and then re-ground the battery using a booster cable so you can quickly pull it off.
Another way that is BETTER if you can utilize this, is to ground the battery with an inline "big bulb". I use an old tail/ stop lamp. This provides a current limiter so that an accidental short will not burn up anything.
Now with everything hooked up, turn on the headlights. Does anything light? anything at all?
Take your meter and check from the battery right through the MAD diagram. Start at the STARTER RELAY BATTERY STUD. Voltage there?
Follow the fuse link to the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. Voltage there?
Next, the interior end of the connector can be difficult. So go to the RED terminal of the ammeter
Next go to the BLACK terminal of the ammeter? Nothing there? Tear apart the ammeter
Let's say you DO have power at the black terminal. The next thing in line is the WELDED SPLICE
You have two choices.....either cut open the harness, or check the "splice output"
Where does it go? Goes to......
the headlight switch
the fuse box hot buss
the input power to the ignition switch
and out to the alternator output stud.
Check all of those places. IF SOME of them don't have power and others do, the SPLICE is the problem
What you want to do is try an simulate "as it happened" conditions. I realize this can be difficult, as you can "bump" or wiggle something and complete a bad circuit. You can use that to your advantage.
Be very careful with the cluster out as the ammeter wires are very much "hot" and UNFUSED except for the poor protection of the fuse link.
Your main points of interest are right in the mad article diagram:
Catalog
So, how to check this?
Figure a way to lay the cluster out so you can get to it safely, IE lay it down on cardboard, towels, etc to protect it, and make sure the ammeter connections are "safe."
Hook everything up "per normal" except......I would provide an "emergency disconnect."
One way is to disconnect the battery ground, and then re-ground the battery using a booster cable so you can quickly pull it off.
Another way that is BETTER if you can utilize this, is to ground the battery with an inline "big bulb". I use an old tail/ stop lamp. This provides a current limiter so that an accidental short will not burn up anything.
Now with everything hooked up, turn on the headlights. Does anything light? anything at all?
Take your meter and check from the battery right through the MAD diagram. Start at the STARTER RELAY BATTERY STUD. Voltage there?
Follow the fuse link to the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR. Voltage there?
Next, the interior end of the connector can be difficult. So go to the RED terminal of the ammeter
Next go to the BLACK terminal of the ammeter? Nothing there? Tear apart the ammeter
Let's say you DO have power at the black terminal. The next thing in line is the WELDED SPLICE
You have two choices.....either cut open the harness, or check the "splice output"
Where does it go? Goes to......
the headlight switch
the fuse box hot buss
the input power to the ignition switch
and out to the alternator output stud.
Check all of those places. IF SOME of them don't have power and others do, the SPLICE is the problem
