SS/B Barracuda project
UPPDATE
Hi all,
It´s about time to do some update. And I apologize it took so long...
I now have a deal with my cousin, who have had a Short Block laying since the early eighties… I turned the block in to Machine Shop the very same day I picked it up, and I now have a late October Casting to go ahead with.
My cousin always told me it was an 60 over block, but as the shop guy and I started to check it out, it turns out to be a 30 over, but had some bad scratches on the outside of each bank. But thanks to the machinery he has, he manage to clear this away by offset bore the block another .030.
Crank is a 426 max wedge, in very god shape. You should have seen the smile on this guy’s face when I told me about the wrench tapping test. “she sang for me a minute at least…” J Rods are Hemi original. Block has a welding on outside of the right side, but machine shop guy say not to worry to much about it. He felt the welding jobb had been well done.
Pics is of mockup of Block-Bell-Trans in body. Since the body is still in the rotisseries, I had to come up with a somewhat odd way to do this. But this turned out good. After close measurements of the height of a kart, I bolted everything together. I than and simply tilted the body enough to roll the kart under it. This of cause had to be done step by step, before body is in complete level.
I decided to go with the 1.20” to the right of centerline offset. The position in length is of cause already known. Transmission cross member mount and transmission mount is less than a ¼ of an inch front or back. The only factor left is the height in the front of the block. I ended up with some 6” crank center line above k-member. I now have a good crankshaft centerline towards the pinion in the rear end. With block/bellhousing in place, the Ansen Bell that I´m going to use, just met the trans tunnel at two spots, and I had to let the BFH talk. If it hadn’t been for the ridges that are on the Ansen Bell, everything would have been fine without hammering.
Reason I chose the Ansen Bell was I do not like the look of the Lakewood in this build. The original steel Bellhousing is more like a cast bellhousing, but you don’t find one of these, so the Ansen Bell that was used in the ´66-67 SS cars is next best pick for me.
Picture of block/bell/trans on kart,![20160506_192612[1]testBlock.jpg](https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/20160506_192612-1-testblock-jpg.1714936649/ "20160506_192612[1]testBlock.jpg")
that can be rolled in and out under body
Any input is appreciated. Thanks…
Good to be back.
Stefan
UPPDATE
Hi all,
It´s about time to do some update. And I apologize it took so long...
I now have a deal with my cousin, who have had a Short Block laying since the early eighties… I turned the block in to Machine Shop the very same day I picked it up, and I now have a late October Casting to go ahead with.
My cousin always told me it was an 60 over block, but as the shop guy and I started to check it out, it turns out to be a 30 over, but had some bad scratches on the outside of each bank. But thanks to the machinery he has, he manage to clear this away by offset bore the block another .030.
Crank is a 426 max wedge, in very god shape. You should have seen the smile on this guy’s face when I told me about the wrench tapping test. “she sang for me a minute at least…” J Rods are Hemi original. Block has a welding on outside of the right side, but machine shop guy say not to worry to much about it. He felt the welding jobb had been well done.
Pics is of mockup of Block-Bell-Trans in body. Since the body is still in the rotisseries, I had to come up with a somewhat odd way to do this. But this turned out good. After close measurements of the height of a kart, I bolted everything together. I than and simply tilted the body enough to roll the kart under it. This of cause had to be done step by step, before body is in complete level.
I decided to go with the 1.20” to the right of centerline offset. The position in length is of cause already known. Transmission cross member mount and transmission mount is less than a ¼ of an inch front or back. The only factor left is the height in the front of the block. I ended up with some 6” crank center line above k-member. I now have a good crankshaft centerline towards the pinion in the rear end. With block/bellhousing in place, the Ansen Bell that I´m going to use, just met the trans tunnel at two spots, and I had to let the BFH talk. If it hadn’t been for the ridges that are on the Ansen Bell, everything would have been fine without hammering.
Reason I chose the Ansen Bell was I do not like the look of the Lakewood in this build. The original steel Bellhousing is more like a cast bellhousing, but you don’t find one of these, so the Ansen Bell that was used in the ´66-67 SS cars is next best pick for me.
Picture of block/bell/trans on kart,
Any input is appreciated. Thanks…
Good to be back.
Stefan
