Quick way to index your shortened driveshaft
Before you use an angle grinder or whizz cutter to cut through the top of the weld bead on your soon to be shortened driveshaft, Take a piece of small angle iron a foot or two in length and line it up on both sides of the U-joint caps scribing lines tangent to the caps edges along the section where the new cut and weld will be. Using a flexible strap to wrap around the shaft will help you scribe the line for the new cut. Once the end yoke has been removed and the excess shaft material removed you use the lines as guides to tap the yoke back into the shortened shaft. Careful measurements and light tapping along with a level and a broomstick or shaft that is cup size can help true the yoke before welding. Leveling the shaft on a flat surface via the stick or shaft and measuring the distance from the stick or shaft to the flat surface until it reads the same 180 degrees apart. I did this one with the joint in place but the stick method is much more accurate because of variations in thickness in materials on the yoke. You of course are also measuring distances from yoke to yoke. Once it is true quickly tack weld two spots 180 degrees apart and then proceed to button it up. Even with my shortcuts on this one I put it in with the old joint shown and drove it to work at 80 MPH today with no vibrations. I hope all yours work out just as well!
Before you use an angle grinder or whizz cutter to cut through the top of the weld bead on your soon to be shortened driveshaft, Take a piece of small angle iron a foot or two in length and line it up on both sides of the U-joint caps scribing lines tangent to the caps edges along the section where the new cut and weld will be. Using a flexible strap to wrap around the shaft will help you scribe the line for the new cut. Once the end yoke has been removed and the excess shaft material removed you use the lines as guides to tap the yoke back into the shortened shaft. Careful measurements and light tapping along with a level and a broomstick or shaft that is cup size can help true the yoke before welding. Leveling the shaft on a flat surface via the stick or shaft and measuring the distance from the stick or shaft to the flat surface until it reads the same 180 degrees apart. I did this one with the joint in place but the stick method is much more accurate because of variations in thickness in materials on the yoke. You of course are also measuring distances from yoke to yoke. Once it is true quickly tack weld two spots 180 degrees apart and then proceed to button it up. Even with my shortcuts on this one I put it in with the old joint shown and drove it to work at 80 MPH today with no vibrations. I hope all yours work out just as well!