A warning about Evans Waterless Coolants

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Like any new product a person should be skeptical about whether or not it will perform as advertised. I'm running it in my '72 Duster 440 drag car because I'd been pulled off the starting line at the strip when my cooling system started to boil over. The Evans will not.

My son first heard of the stuff a few years ago on Jay Leno's Garage. Leno switched over to it after seeing how badly the water/glycol he'd been running had corroded a Deusenberg engine of his. Problems with corrosion are supposed to go away with the Evans and they claim it's a 'lifetime fluid that never needs to be changed. Most of our engines have a lot of aluminum components and part of our decision to switch to Evans was to protect expensive parts.

My 408 in the Barracuda runs at a constant 200' with Evans but never boils over It ran at 185' -190' before. According to Evans the temperature is even throughout the engine and does not have the extreme hot spots around the cylinder heads caused by boiling. They claim you will actually experience less pre-detonation. My experience with the Duster's 440 seems to confirm this and I'm actually able to run more advance than before.
 
Like any new product a person should be skeptical about whether or not it will perform as advertised. I'm running it in my '72 Duster 440 drag car because I'd been pulled off the starting line at the strip when my cooling system started to boil over. The Evans will not.

My son first heard of the stuff a few years ago on Jay Leno's Garage. Leno switched over to it after seeing how badly the water/glycol he'd been running had corroded a Deusenberg engine of his. Problems with corrosion are supposed to go away with the Evans and they claim it's a 'lifetime fluid that never needs to be changed. Most of our engines have a lot of aluminum components and part of our decision to switch to Evans was to protect expensive parts.

My 408 in the Barracuda runs at a constant 200' with Evans but never boils over It ran at 185' -190' before. According to Evans the temperature is even throughout the engine and does not have the extreme hot spots around the cylinder heads caused by boiling. They claim you will actually experience less pre-detonation. My experience with the Duster's 440 seems to confirm this and I'm actually able to run more advance than before.

Huh, well there's one for some actual experience with it.
Thank you.
Any thoughts on the part mentioned about building up on aluminum?
 
Huh, well there's one for some actual experience with it.
Thank you.
Any thoughts on the part mentioned about building up on aluminum?

I'd never heard anything about that until this thread. I can't say from experience that it wouldn't happen but I do know that the lack of sludgy buildup was one of the other benefits that Evans claims. It is not supposed to break down and is supposed to last (without needing changing) for the life of any vehicle it's put in. I do remember seeing someone online showing photos of an engine they'd torn down after using it and the water passages really looked clean.

Most people don't change antifreeze as often as they should (if ever) so if their claims are true it would save a person a lot of money over the course of the life of their car. I know that a lot of over the road trucking companies have been switching to it.

Only time will tell if it doesn't break down but for now we're really pleased. It took awhile to get used to the temperature increase that we saw and I was really concerned at first. It wasn't until I found that my engine could run at 200' without pinging that I calmed down. With the glycol mix we were already running on the edge of detonation issues at 190'. I've heard that the optimal temperature for power efficiency is theoretically around 200' anyway. I don't remember where I'd heard that but if it's true then it's another point in favor for using the Evans.
 
There's so much BS about cooling, and so many things that people simply don't understand without a thorough education in REAL thermodynamics and fluid dynamics.

Flow is hugely important. Why? Because mass flow rate dictates how quickly you suck heat out of system. This is dependent on many variables, but in general more flow is better. A well designed system will work at a temperature matched to a flow rate that maximizes heat extraction.

There's more than one kind of pressure. There's static, and dynamic. Cooling systems don't give a flying F about static pressure - the pressure on the radiator cap. Because it's the same everywhere. Dynamic pressure is different. This is pressure that results from a restriction. Think putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose. So having coolant passage restrictions that cause a reduction in flow will cause a spike in pressure. If these are well-placed, they can help mitigate local hot spots that might otherwise flash boil at lower pressures. I'd argue that if this is necessary, then the system FLOW should be increased to fix it first - but that's not always a choice OEMs can make. They have to package that cooling system somehow.

Lastly: shedding heat. This is where the size of the radiator comes into play. While there's no such thing as having too much flow, you CAN have too little surface area to shed the heat out of the mass of coolant. This is where #'s of cores come into play. A very high flow radiator can work well, but once the coolant and radiator are heat soaked, it simply may not be possible to shed the heat off the limited space fast enough. It becomes a balancing act. The REAL art is getting big flow while maintaining the surface area needed. This is why good parts cost money - it takes engineering. Just like a well ported head versus bubba with a dremel.

As far as water/glycol/wonder-fluids: the name of the game is boiling point and SPECIFIC HEAT CAPACITY. Water has a very high specific heat capacity. Meaning it takes a lot of energy to heat it up. The problem is that it also boils at a relatively low temperature, and once it does - it stops absorbing heat so well. This is where glycols and other additives come into play. They help augment the boiling point while retaining some of the properties of water, but also contain other additives which are good at absorbing these funny things called ions that would otherwise react with the various metals in our motors. You can get away with reducing specific heat capacity, but it REQUIRES adding mass (more volume) to the system to maintain equilibrium. If you're working with an OE system at OE power levels, you can probably get away with wonderfluids and no water, but if you have a tiny radiator with a 2,000hp mill behind it... don't count on it working so well.

This is where STATIC pressure comes in. When the static pressure is raised, it increases the boiling point of the water so that it can continue to absorb energy/heat. Pascal's law tells us that pressure on a fluid is felt anywhere that fluid contacts the vessel. This means your cooling system doesn't care if it's at 0psi, or 120psi - but your components do. Whether due to the difference in boiling point or the mechanical strain created by the pressure.

So in the end, you need ENOUGH coolant to absorb the heat generated while at the fastest flow rate that can be reasonably achieved. Then the radiator MUST be sized to shed that amount of heat at a faster rate than the coolant is sucking it out. This is done to ensure that the motor can always be cooled below the thermostatic temperature and that it never runs away. Coolant mass can be added to suck more heat out, but all it does is delay the inevitable boil-over because the radiator simply MUST shed as much or more heat than the engine can produce.

As far as thermostats: they can function as flow restrictors and cause localized pressure increases to stop localized boiling. A properly engineered system wouldn't need this part of the function, however.

Engine operating temperature is a function of many things. The cylinder wall wear we see in conjunction with cold engines has to do with the gasoline 'washing down' the walls and eliminating the lubrication for the piston rings. A direct injection motor wouldn't care if it's at 120F, 20F, or 205F so long as the combustion is efficient - the cylinder walls will never see gasoline vapors or liquid. So the induction method and type is important. For a carb, we want a hotter motor to help vaporize the fuel - to a limit. Too much heat starts to reduce charge density and can exacerbate pre-ignition. A fuel injection motor, well it depends. Port fuel injection will tend to atomize well due to turbulence, while a TBI relies on the same mechanism as a carb. Sequential injection offers the benefits of port injection with the added benefit of firing in time with valve events to maximize the vaporization and minimize liquid fuel droplets. This would allow the engine to run at a lower temperature without the adverse effects.

BUT, it can become less consistent because the engine is running closer to ambient temperatures which can vary wildly.

So, in the end, it's just like anything else: build it for the job and don't get caught up in the marketing hype. A bigger radiator never hurts, but the wrong coolant or too high or low of a stat, or too high or low of a pressure can cause adverse results unless they're well thought out and the system is designed to operate with them.
 
Hm, that's good information.
Since we know the pinging dropped off then we can deduce that the head temps must have been lower and not higher like one of the articles I read said.
Not that it matters to me specifically because I don't run aluminum anything except the water pump, related covers and intake.
Any blocked heat transfer wouldn't matter much at all in those area's on my car.
Still I'd like to know more about that part, as it would/could be a pretty big deal for the aluminum headed guy's.
Problem is, I can and have looked for hours at a time for that specific verifiable information and I'm not seeing it anywhere. (only rumors and opinions)
I'm not on a mission over it or anything but when I get a question in my head about something I just have to find out for some reason. :D


I'd never heard anything about that until this thread. I can't say from experience that it wouldn't happen but I do know that the lack of sludgy buildup was one of the other benefits that Evans claims. It is not supposed to break down and is supposed to last (without needing changing) for the life of any vehicle it's put in. I do remember seeing someone online showing photos of an engine they'd torn down after using it and the water passages really looked clean.

Most people don't change antifreeze as often as they should (if ever) so if their claims are true it would save a person a lot of money over the course of the life of their car. I know that a lot of over the road trucking companies have been switching to it.

Only time will tell if it doesn't break down but for now we're really pleased. It took awhile to get used to the temperature increase that we saw and I was really concerned at first. It wasn't until I found that my engine could run at 200' without pinging that I calmed down. With the glycol mix we were already running on the edge of detonation issues at 190'. I've heard that the optimal temperature for power efficiency is theoretically around 200' anyway. I don't remember where I'd heard that but if it's true then it's another point in favor for using the Evans.
 
Hm, that's good information.
Since we know the pinging dropped off then we can deduce that the head temps must have been lower and not higher like one of the articles I read said.
Not that it matters to me specifically because I don't run aluminum anything except the water pump, related covers and intake.
Any blocked heat transfer wouldn't matter much at all in those area's on my car.
Still I'd like to know more about that part, as it would/could be a pretty big deal for the aluminum headed guy's.
Problem is, I can and have looked for hours at a time for that specific verifiable information and I'm not seeing it anywhere. (only rumors and opinions)
I'm not on a mission over it or anything but when I get a question in my head about something I just have to find out for some reason. :D

I am glad you posted the thread. If we do start to see a change in performance a few years down the road I'll definitely want to check & see if a buildup of deposits is happening.

Here's the link to the Leno Garage video we'd watched years ago.
 
There's so much BS about cooling, and so many things that people simply don't understand without a thorough education in REAL thermodynamics and fluid dynamics.

Flow is hugely important. Why? Because mass flow rate dictates how quickly you suck heat out of system. This is dependent on many variables, but in general more flow is better. A well designed system will work at a temperature matched to a flow rate that maximizes heat extraction.

There's more than one kind of pressure. There's static, and dynamic. Cooling systems don't give a flying F about static pressure - the pressure on the radiator cap. Because it's the same everywhere. Dynamic pressure is different. This is pressure that results from a restriction. Think putting your thumb over the end of a garden hose. So having coolant passage restrictions that cause a reduction in flow will cause a spike in pressure. If these are well-placed, they can help mitigate local hot spots that might otherwise flash boil at lower pressures. I'd argue that if this is necessary, then the system FLOW should be increased to fix it first - but that's not always a choice OEMs can make. They have to package that cooling system somehow.

Lastly: shedding heat. This is where the size of the radiator comes into play. While there's no such thing as having too much flow, you CAN have too little surface area to shed the heat out of the mass of coolant. This is where #'s of cores come into play. A very high flow radiator can work well, but once the coolant and radiator are heat soaked, it simply may not be possible to shed the heat off the limited space fast enough. It becomes a balancing act. The REAL art is getting big flow while maintaining the surface area needed. This is why good parts cost money - it takes engineering. Just like a well ported head versus bubba with a dremel.

As far as water/glycol/wonder-fluids: the name of the game is boiling point and SPECIFIC HEAT CAPACITY. Water has a very high specific heat capacity. Meaning it takes a lot of energy to heat it up. The problem is that it also boils at a relatively low temperature, and once it does - it stops absorbing heat so well. This is where glycols and other additives come into play. They help augment the boiling point while retaining some of the properties of water, but also contain other additives which are good at absorbing these funny things called ions that would otherwise react with the various metals in our motors. You can get away with reducing specific heat capacity, but it REQUIRES adding mass (more volume) to the system to maintain equilibrium. If you're working with an OE system at OE power levels, you can probably get away with wonderfluids and no water, but if you have a tiny radiator with a 2,000hp mill behind it... don't count on it working so well.

This is where STATIC pressure comes in. When the static pressure is raised, it increases the boiling point of the water so that it can continue to absorb energy/heat. Pascal's law tells us that pressure on a fluid is felt anywhere that fluid contacts the vessel. This means your cooling system doesn't care if it's at 0psi, or 120psi - but your components do. Whether due to the difference in boiling point or the mechanical strain created by the pressure.

So in the end, you need ENOUGH coolant to absorb the heat generated while at the fastest flow rate that can be reasonably achieved. Then the radiator MUST be sized to shed that amount of heat at a faster rate than the coolant is sucking it out. This is done to ensure that the motor can always be cooled below the thermostatic temperature and that it never runs away. Coolant mass can be added to suck more heat out, but all it does is delay the inevitable boil-over because the radiator simply MUST shed as much or more heat than the engine can produce.

As far as thermostats: they can function as flow restrictors and cause localized pressure increases to stop localized boiling. A properly engineered system wouldn't need this part of the function, however.

Engine operating temperature is a function of many things. The cylinder wall wear we see in conjunction with cold engines has to do with the gasoline 'washing down' the walls and eliminating the lubrication for the piston rings. A direct injection motor wouldn't care if it's at 120F, 20F, or 205F so long as the combustion is efficient - the cylinder walls will never see gasoline vapors or liquid. So the induction method and type is important. For a carb, we want a hotter motor to help vaporize the fuel - to a limit. Too much heat starts to reduce charge density and can exacerbate pre-ignition. A fuel injection motor, well it depends. Port fuel injection will tend to atomize well due to turbulence, while a TBI relies on the same mechanism as a carb. Sequential injection offers the benefits of port injection with the added benefit of firing in time with valve events to maximize the vaporization and minimize liquid fuel droplets. This would allow the engine to run at a lower temperature without the adverse effects.

BUT, it can become less consistent because the engine is running closer to ambient temperatures which can vary wildly.

So, in the end, it's just like anything else: build it for the job and don't get caught up in the marketing hype. A bigger radiator never hurts, but the wrong coolant or too high or low of a stat, or too high or low of a pressure can cause adverse results unless they're well thought out and the system is designed to operate with them.



Some one should pull this post out and make a sticky of it.

Nice post.
 
I run Evans in my 1984 & 85 M-B diesels and last summer converted my 2002 3.8L T&C minivan to Evans though didn't get many super hot days testing on it. "Hot day" here means >110 F to you Easteners. Best test was the 1984 diesel, climbing the I-5 south grade to L.A. on an August afternoon (~100 F), a stretch I understand where new car designs are proven. It hit 102 C (normally runs 82 C), which is about what we saw with 50/50 mix. I agree w/ traditionalists who say that ethylene glycol/water has been around for decades, but so has the associated corrosion. Evans does have less heat capacity so less cooling capability than pristine 50/50 in a new car, but my hope is that after a few years the lack of corrosion makes the cooling system work better with Evans, plus I hate changing those parts.

One caveat, my 1985 diesel starting running hot last Fall and thru the winter (~95 C vs 82 C) and creeping towards critical 120 C at long stop lights unless I rev'ed the engine. But, this was after 2 years running Evans w/ no problem. Started after I installed a new T-stat and added a tube of Aluma-Seal (preparing it for my son, possible heater core seepage). A month ago, I recovered the Evans and swapped to pure water + anti-rust and the old T-stat. Seemed to still overheat slightly, then stopped after a few days, running at 82 C since. One suspicion is that Aluma-Seal forms a clog in Evans. But, the T-stat could also be the culprit. The M-B T-stat is double-headed. One plug must open and the other close a bypass in the housing. People that remove the T-stat find their engine overheats, which might be how some stories started (most M-B or Euro-cars?). More testing.

Many false stories about Evans spread, many by competitors. Most have little scientific basis. But, Evans is also a bit wrong in claiming that vapor formation in the head lowers heat transfer. Boiling initially greatly increases heat transfer. In the extreme, you get "film boiling", which is a continuous film layer that does decrease heat transfer, so they are partially correct. BTW, if you boil used Evans to drive off the water, do so outdoors. I did that inside on the stove, thinking the faint vapor coming off was water. I later noticed greasy drops on the vent screen, so I had been boiling the Evans. It is supposed to be safe to drink. The original formula used propylene glycol, which is a food additive, but I understand they now mix ethylene glycol, having found that the mixture is non-fatal, but please don't test that.

On the "bad cooling science" list, add the one about needing a flow restrictor to "give time for coolant to sit in radiator and cool". A manufacturer considered that bizarre and traced the source to 1940's cars that would burp fluid out the radiator cap from too much pressure, which a restrictor fixed. Read up: Stewart Components, Tech Tip #3 - Thermostats & Restrictors

I plan to convert my 60's Mopars to Evans, and have several drying out thoroughly, after flushing w/ citric acid.
 
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I've heard that the optimal temperature for power efficiency is theoretically around 200' anyway. I don't remember where I'd heard that but if it's true then it's another point in favor for using the Evans.
Let's just keep some perspective with numbers like this; peak power and peak efficiency are different for different apps, engines, and situations. For example, NASCAR engines run in the 220-240 range on purpose. It has a lot to do with not getting the intake charge too hot (which makes it expand and less dense), and and the combustion process itself (which VERY generally gets more efficient with higher temps). So a set temp as 'best' for everything is not realyl the case.
 
Let's just keep some perspective with numbers like this; peak power and peak efficiency are different for different apps, engines, and situations. For example, NASCAR engines run in the 220-240 range on purpose. It has a lot to do with not getting the intake charge too hot (which makes it expand and less dense), and and the combustion process itself (which VERY generally gets more efficient with higher temps). So a set temp as 'best' for everything is not realyl the case.

I understand that a temperature that is too high or a combustion chamber with hot spots will have issues with preignition. I can understand the theory that fuel vaporization may be enhanced as temperature goes up. So is there such a thing as a theoretical 'approximate' ideal operating temperature for most V8s if hot spots were taken out of the equation?
 
I understand that a temperature that is too high or a combustion chamber with hot spots will have issues with preignition. I can understand the theory that fuel vaporization may be enhanced as temperature goes up. So is there such a thing as a theoretical 'approximate' ideal operating temperature for most V8s if hot spots were taken out of the equation?

Short answer: no.

The operating temperature has a lot to do with taking all the variables into consideration. NASCAR engines, for example, are highly refined and have been iteratively improved for decades, so the limits and best areas are well known. But they're also operating in a fairly constant manner. They're also using coolants that are track friendly. Those engines are gulping air the entire time (which is helping shed heat into the intake tract to some degree). Their ideal temperature is likely higher because of that - the intake remains cooler and so the engine heat is bumped up to help fuel vaporization.

Today's OE packages are pushing temperatures up, but they also have to deal with emissions. They have to deal with an owner going from sea level to 11,000ft elevation. They have to deal with -20F mornings and 122F afternoons. They have to deal with idling for 5-15 minutes in stagnant, hot, humid air. They have to deal with air conditioner loads, bad fuel, cheap oils, etc..

The 'best' is the highest you can get away with consistently. But then it has to be backed down for various reasons: hot spots, intended use, traffic, effects on oil viscosity. Effects on longevity of coolants, oils. Then there's the variables like gasoline blends that change, and fuel that is older than other supplies or more contaminated. ~200F seems to work well for most, it's high enough to burn off the stuff that would otherwise condense in our oil, but cool enough not to coke our oil after shut down. It's pretty efficient for fuel burn, but not the best - as always, it's a tradeoff.
 
I understand that a temperature that is too high or a combustion chamber with hot spots will have issues with preignition. I can understand the theory that fuel vaporization may be enhanced as temperature goes up. So is there such a thing as a theoretical 'approximate' ideal operating temperature for most V8s if hot spots were taken out of the equation?
That is an good question. I suspect there are some good ideas out there in the engine design world that the engine engineers know, and I read some papers from time to time, but I sure don't know any particular answer.

To add another factor to the above..... the combustion efficiency is a function of the pressure rise in the engine during combustion. If you want your head to spin a bit, look up 'thermodynamic PV cycle' for internal combustion engines (which are different for for diesel and gas). Engine temp can have an influence on that cycle.... but as said, it will depend on the use and design of a LOT of other things.
 
The one thing nobody has talked about, is fuel mileage. I Know that for most guys this is not a biggie,but I used to drive my car all year as a DD, so it was an issue for me.I found that running a minimum water temp of 205*, allowed me to lean the cruise circuit out pretty good.But that didn't allow much room for emergencies. That led me to what YR mentioned, A large-area rad and a hi-flow pump.Yeah I had to cut out my core-support. To that I added a 7-blade fan on a reliable thermostatic clutch, and a hi-flo stat. So I ended up with a cooling system temp that is rock-solid at 205*. Knowing that it was reliable now, I dropped the pressure to 7psi,the minimum I could find.That was 15 years ago. All the hoses are still on there including the top one which was used when I slapped it on there. I can run any antifreeze ratio I want, or straight water,it matters not.
I also found that the engine seemed to make the same amount of power with timing anywhere between 36 to 32 degrees(aluminum heads). I didn't know what to make of this for quite some time, maybe several years. Then one day I ran across some info from a dyno shop that mentioned this very thing, as to aluminum heads.Up to that point I had chalked it up to tight-quench theory(mine was .035).
But getting back to fuel mileage.During the tuning stage, I found with a conservative mechanical curve and a ton of Vacuum advance,I could take out a lot of fuel, pretty much everywhere except at WOT.This made her very snappy. I won't tell you what kind of mileage I eventually got, cuz you might think me a liar. Everyone does.And besides, the only numbers I remember now, are the ones where I was running a double overdrive,and that won't be a fair number to reveal, cuz, who runs that?
Point of story:Once your cooling system can run a reliable rock-solid temperature, you have to retune for that new temp. That means a careful choreography of timing and fueling.There is no reason anymore to run fat and lazy all the time,just in case the needle starts climbing.
I guess that doesn't have much to do with Evans, other than I don't need it.
 
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AJ, I would believe your mileage... especially after running a manual 4 speed OD Dart Lite for almost a quarter million miles and getting 28-29 MPG on the interstate at 65-70 MPH; the factory boys knew a thing or 2 about tuning that we don't give them much credit for. The right tuning can do a LOT for mileage.

BTW, what t'stat did you end up with for that high flow?
 
From reading this thread I've come to a few conclusions.

STRAIGHT WATER

1) Water seems to be the best coolant for heat transfer but the low boiling point negates it's ability to do the job without turning to steam around the combustion chambers in many (if not all) applications. It is corrosive and doesn't contain lubricants that the water pump needs. For short term use it will work but not during winter.


50/50 MIX ANTIFREEZE

2) The antifreeze mix is going to prevent freezing problems during winter and should help to reduce the low boiling temperature issue experienced with water alone. Aluminum parts are especially susceptible to damage from water's corrosive properties and a 50/50 mix with antifreeze won't prevent that damage from occurring. - So anyone running a lot of aluminum engine components will experience the corrosive effects over time. The 50/50 mix does break down so unless it's changed as recommended it's likely to start filling the cooling passages with sludge. It'd take several years for enough of it to present major problems but a cooling system using it should be flushed periodically to prevent it.


EVANS WATERLESS

3) Initially it's the most expensive option but the price comparison changes if the Evans never needs to be changed as they advertise. If their claims are true, it will negate any concerns about corrosive damage to aluminum parts and will not break down and sludge up the coolant passages. The extremely high boiling temperature should prevent it from turning to steam around the combustion chambers in some motors. That should translate to a reduction in hot spots that could cause preignition. Concerns were raised about a competitor's claim that Evans will coat aluminum parts and that coating interfering with it's ability to transfer heat. If true, any benefit from reduced hot spots might diminish or disappear over time. The Evans is the least efficient at drawing heat from an engine. Straight water and the 50/50 antifreeze mix are better at reducing engine temperatures. That being said, the Evans is supposed to give a more consistent temperature throughout an engine when you include the areas around the cylinders.


MOST IMPORTANT

4) More important than anything else seems to be the recommendation for having a proper cooling system. Without sufficient coolant capacity, air flow, and coolant flow it won't matter which coolant is used.
 
Water's boiling point is also a function of pressure. At 15psi, water won't boil until 250F. Hot spots can probably be beyond that, but even modest amounts of coolant will help reduce the issue substantially.

The only time pure water is going to corrode aluminum is if there's galvanic activity. This can be fixed by making sure the electrical system is properly grounded and only distilled (deionized is better) water is used. This is why tap water is a big no-no. It will corrode steel too, but often will attack other metals first. Use pure water, and the 'will corrode aluminum' argument becomes bunk. Which also negates point #2.

Using premixed coolant avoids the whole distilled/deionized issue altogether. Using a hydrometer and adding distilled/deionized to keep the specific gravity in check is good maintenance too. No one does that these days.

This 'Evans' stuff is an answer to a question asked only by those who don't maintain their cooling system and want a 'silver bullet' that's 'foolproof' to use. The right materials and normal cooling parts and coolants work exceedingly well, even in high performance situations. Sprint cars, pro stock, NASCAR, they all run water with a small additive package and do just fine to keep the engine cool. OEM coolants run for 50, 60, 100k miles before needing service. So why do we need to eliminate water? Why eliminate the typical glycol AF?

The mistakes most folks make are bodge jobs to to the electrical system, and adding water from the garden hose. Bad maintenance and piss poor work has over the years caused all kinds of grief that has spawned the snake-oil alternatives market for automobiles.

I'm sure Evans works just fine, but it's also likely no better than, and in most cases worse than a properly maintained 50/50 glycol package with a modest anti-corrosion package. Don't use your cooling system as a circuit, ground the engine block properly, use pure water or premix coolants, and you're likely to never have problems.
 
Water's boiling point is also a function of pressure. At 15psi, water won't boil until 250F. Hot spots can probably be beyond that, but even modest amounts of coolant will help reduce the issue substantially.

The only time pure water is going to corrode aluminum is if there's galvanic activity. This can be fixed by making sure the electrical system is properly grounded and only distilled (deionized is better) water is used. This is why tap water is a big no-no. It will corrode steel too, but often will attack other metals first. Use pure water, and the 'will corrode aluminum' argument becomes bunk. Which also negates point #2.

Using premixed coolant avoids the whole distilled/deionized issue altogether. Using a hydrometer and adding distilled/deionized to keep the specific gravity in check is good maintenance too. No one does that these days.

This 'Evans' stuff is an answer to a question asked only by those who don't maintain their cooling system and want a 'silver bullet' that's 'foolproof' to use. The right materials and normal cooling parts and coolants work exceedingly well, even in high performance situations. Sprint cars, pro stock, NASCAR, they all run water with a small additive package and do just fine to keep the engine cool. OEM coolants run for 50, 60, 100k miles before needing service. So why do we need to eliminate water? Why eliminate the typical glycol AF?

The mistakes most folks make are bodge jobs to to the electrical system, and adding water from the garden hose. Bad maintenance and piss poor work has over the years caused all kinds of grief that has spawned the snake-oil alternatives market for automobiles.

I'm sure Evans works just fine, but it's also likely no better than, and in most cases worse than a properly maintained 50/50 glycol package with a modest anti-corrosion package. Don't use your cooling system as a circuit, ground the engine block properly, use pure water or premix coolants, and you're likely to never have problems.

Phreakish, I've rebuilt a few motors that had had their antifreeze changed regularly and there was quite a bit of crud in the water passages. - Enough to have probably been a concern. I doubt that distilled water was mixed with the coolant though. Are you saying that the buildup was due to tap water? - Or was it due to the antifreeze breaking down? And on the subject of antifreeze, are some brands more likely to cause problems than others?
 
Phreakish, I've rebuilt a few motors that had had their antifreeze changed regularly and there was quite a bit of crud in the water passages. - Enough to have probably been a concern. I doubt that distilled water was mixed with the coolant though. Are you saying that the buildup was due to tap water? - Or was it due to the antifreeze breaking down? And on the subject of antifreeze, are some brands more likely to cause problems than others?

Tap water, old antifreeze, mixing different brands, using flushes or stop leaks can all cause this kind of buildup. Most antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors, but they breakdown just like anything else. When they do, or when different brands are mixed (which might use different packages) it can cause the 'gum' we know and hate. They'll break down sooner in the presence of anything that's not pure water. I'd also wonder why the engines were rebuilt - any internal failure which can cause coolant and combustion gasses or oil to mix will wreak havoc inside the cooling system in short order.

There's also the electrolysis issue. Bad groundings, lack of grounding, attaching ground straps where convenient rather than where intended. All can cause even 'good' coolant to show issues. Water isn't the fault here, though a more dielectric coolant might stave off the issue, the real problem is a poor electrical system. This is a problem on many hot rods and home-built cars because it's simply not understood. Electric potential in the cooling system will corrode parts no matter how many inhibitors are present. Minerals and contamination in the added water will accelerate it.

All coolants have their drawbacks and benefits. The only one I've seen regular issues with was Dexcool. The 'crud' tended to float rather than sink, and as a result collected around gaskets and the like. It also doesn't like being mixed with air, so cars that were ever run until an air pocket formed in their reservoirs tended to have major issues in the cooling system. It was also a lot more sensitive to non-clean water based on my experiences. But still, regular maintenance and pure water seemed to reduce issues substantially.
 
I'd also wonder why the engines were rebuilt - any internal failure which can cause coolant and combustion gasses or oil to mix will wreak havoc inside the cooling system in short order.

The motors I spoke of were big block Chryslers with 60-70,000ish miles on them that were being freshened up. Cylinder wear, but not substantial. I was mainly looking to upgrade performance at the time.
 
The motors I spoke of were big block Chryslers with 60-70,000ish miles on them that were being freshened up. Cylinder wear, but not substantial. I was mainly looking to upgrade performance at the time.

Gotcha. Then most likely a history of tap water and probably a bit of electrical too. Having a solid chassis and engine ground does wonders. Isolating the radiator can help too if it's an aluminum one (ever notice how newer cars mount their rads with plastic/rubber isolators?)
 
The factory ground cables were still in the stock locations. I wasn't 1st owner of the vehicles but they'd been owned by mechanics that spoke of meticulous maintenance including the oil & coolant changes. I don't know if 50/50 premixed coolants were available back then but I always mixed my own with tap water.

What would you consider the best grounding locations? My cars had the large ground strap from the battery to the front of the motors and a second small strap from the firewall to the rear of the engine. Is that the ideal? - Or could that be improved upon?
 
The factory ground cables were still in the stock locations. I wasn't 1st owner of the vehicles but they'd been owned by mechanics that spoke of meticulous maintenance including the oil & coolant changes. I don't know if 50/50 premixed coolants were available back then but I always mixed my own with tap water.

What would you consider the best grounding locations? My cars had the large ground strap from the battery to the front of the motors and a second small strap from the firewall to the rear of the engine. Is that the ideal? - Or could that be improved upon?

As cars age, the body becomes less of a continuous circuit. Going from the battery to the body, body to the engine helps. Even better if they both attach to the body at the same place. With regard to the cooling specifically, going from the head to the battery is OK, but I always preferred going right to a starter bolt - problems happen with headers and exhaust though, so the head is a good compromise. The last step is to isolate the radiator from currents. This is toughest with an automatic since the cooler lines are often attached. If it can't be isolated, ensuring it shares a good ground and then CONFIRMING there's no current/potential flowing through the radiator or the coolant (multi meter on battery + terminal and one probe in the coolant. Running and not there shouldn't be more than .1~.2v).

In your case, I'd say it was probably the tap water that contributed. It was, and is still, very common to do. Hard water will cause problems faster/sooner.
 
Phreakish, I've rebuilt a few motors that had had their antifreeze changed regularly and there was quite a bit of crud in the water passages. - Enough to have probably been a concern. I doubt that distilled water was mixed with the coolant though. Are you saying that the buildup was due to tap water? - Or was it due to the antifreeze breaking down? And on the subject of antifreeze, are some brands more likely to cause problems than others?
FWIW, with the old brass radiators, the cast iron in the block and head become the sacrificial metal in the electrolysis process. So any electrolysis from whatever the cause ends up in the block and head.

With AL radiators and heads, the sacrificial element is the AL. So the iron block water passages will always look good.

As for A/F, I have been switching to the HOAT types like Zerex G05 for the longevity of the fluid and additives. (Plus you can add in a green A/F in an emergency, unlike Dexcool.)

Cooling System Antifreeze Requirements
 
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