A warning about Evans Waterless Coolants

The factory ground cables were still in the stock locations. I wasn't 1st owner of the vehicles but they'd been owned by mechanics that spoke of meticulous maintenance including the oil & coolant changes. I don't know if 50/50 premixed coolants were available back then but I always mixed my own with tap water.

What would you consider the best grounding locations? My cars had the large ground strap from the battery to the front of the motors and a second small strap from the firewall to the rear of the engine. Is that the ideal? - Or could that be improved upon?

As cars age, the body becomes less of a continuous circuit. Going from the battery to the body, body to the engine helps. Even better if they both attach to the body at the same place. With regard to the cooling specifically, going from the head to the battery is OK, but I always preferred going right to a starter bolt - problems happen with headers and exhaust though, so the head is a good compromise. The last step is to isolate the radiator from currents. This is toughest with an automatic since the cooler lines are often attached. If it can't be isolated, ensuring it shares a good ground and then CONFIRMING there's no current/potential flowing through the radiator or the coolant (multi meter on battery + terminal and one probe in the coolant. Running and not there shouldn't be more than .1~.2v).

In your case, I'd say it was probably the tap water that contributed. It was, and is still, very common to do. Hard water will cause problems faster/sooner.