A warning about Evans Waterless Coolants

There's also the electrolysis issue. Bad groundings, lack of grounding, attaching ground straps where convenient rather than where intended. All can cause even 'good' coolant to show issues. Water isn't the fault here, though a more dielectric coolant might stave off the issue, the real problem is a poor electrical system. This is a problem on many hot rods and home-built cars because it's simply not understood. Electric potential in the cooling system will corrode parts no matter how many inhibitors are present. Minerals and contamination in the added water will accelerate it.
One thing to know is that even with good grounds, some current will still flow through the coolant and rad to ground and back to the engine components once there are any ions in the coolant, whether due to hard water ions or exhaustion of inhibitors and the subsequent acidification of the coolant. As long as the rad is hard mounted, this electrical flow will happen, and will add to electrolysis and the associated corrosion.

Back in the days of brass radiators, when the iron block and head corroded (were sacrificial), this did not matter much as the iron castings are thick. But with AL rads, this become a big deal. If you look at modern cars and trucks with AL rads, you will notice that they use plastic tanks and plastic and rubber mounts. This acts to electrically insulate the AL rad core from the body and thus break the biggest electrical flow path through the AL rad core, and helping rad core life.

So all of us gearheads running AL rads maybe should mount them on plastic inserts in the core support? Mmmmm, probably not.... changing coolant ever few years is easier!