Hate to do it

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dbs1473

dbs1473

73 Swinger
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Feb 10, 2016
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florida
Ok, I know I am going to get a few lumps for this but after all of that please hear me out and any ideas will be greatly appreciated. I am not allowed to spend thousands of dollars on a rear end for my 73 Swinger. Yes, I am married! So upgrading my 7 1/4 rear end with even and 8 1/4 sure grip is out of the question, getting one that is actually worth using, that is. Even finding just the housing for this is a few hundred dollars, then a few hundred more for the sure grip unit, then a few hundred more for brakes then a few hundred more for perch relocation if need be, you see how this is adding up? Yea, so does my wife. So, here goes, what rear end that is not a Mopar product will fit under my Dart? I can already feel the glares, but some of us are on a budget, so have a heart guys!
 
The Jeep Grand Cherokee 8.25 with disc brakes is $225 bucks at the U pick it here.
About 4 inches too wide for the Swinger, but can be made to work with rim offset.
You would however still need to have all the Cherokee mounting and suspension garbage cut off and the A body perches welded on and the driveline shortened.
Taking into account I can do all the above myself it would only cost me a few hundred total, but if you or a buddy can't do it the labor is going to push you somewhat (3-4X) over the original cost of the rear end.
There is a good amount of aftermarket parts and support for that rear end also since craploads of Jeeps run them.
 
73 was first year for the "big" bolt pattern. I think. I would look at ford explorers, Plentiful at wrecking yards. WILL require some work to make work on A body but nt too bad.
 
8.8" Ford. Most are disc brake which is a no no if you don't have front disc. It will require a different master also. Not a cheap swap.
 
Depending on how mechanically inclined you are and how much time you have, finding a non A-body rear end and modifying it to fit your Dart might ultimately cost more and take more time than spending the slightly extra cost up front for an original A-body 8 1/4.

What work have you done to the engine? Do you need or want an 8 1/4 now?
 
If you can't find an 8 1/4" for an a body for under $300, it seems like you're not looking very hard.

Upshot: sure grip stuff is cheap n easy, and it's a bolt in.

If you're relocating springs, damn near ANY rear is going to need it, so that's a wash.

What are your plans for the car? What issues are you anticipating? I bought a complete 8 3/4 sure grip drum to drum for $300, and the bbp axles left me under the Mark you're quoting and it was ready to run.
 
66/67 B body 8 3/4.

Can be had complete with 2.94 open and brakes for $150.

Not really necessary to move perches 3/4 of an inch (let the fire storm begin).

Might need to run skinnier tires or play with offset if you want "mags".

Makes the rear track the same as the front track on a disk brake car.

No mods needed in a Duster, A little tighter in a "23" body.

Another option is an M body 8 1/4.
 
If you think the difference between a Mopar and non Mopar rear end means being able to afford the hobby or not, get out of it. Now.
 
Just keep looking, I traded a front disc set up for my 8 1/4 with suregrip rear, they can be found just keep looking. This hobby is not cheap no matter what way you cut it.
 
How about an 8 1/4 from something like an M body? Would that be close? There are lots out there.
 
Oddly, an 8" Ford from a Granada/Maverick/Comet will fit. Has to be a later car. Look for a Granada with a V8. it will bolt in and be about the same width I think. They are 4.5x5 and use drums. I had one under my dart to move it while the 8-3/4 was out. I never hood up the hydraulic or E brake so your on your own there. I also never hooded up the drive shaft so pinion angle, u-joints, and shaft length will need to be sorted as well. My dad has one he can't give away because everyone want 3.55:1's and a limited slip for $150....ain't gonna happen.
 
Dude, 8.8 swap and be done. Got mine out of an Explorer, I suggest you do the same. Be sure to cut in a rear prop valve, you'll need to turn down the signal.
 
I think you'll find Fords run the drive shaft down the middle of the car. Axles are uneven length to account for the pinion offset. Check closely before committing.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you think the difference between a Mopar and non Mopar rear end means being able to afford the hobby or not, get out of it. Now.
Click to expand...
it be better if you made the decision, rather than the wife. maybe put the car on the backburner for a couple hundred years waiting for the go ahead from the wife.
I sure hope that day comes, it didn't for a few of my friends. if a 7 1/4 peg leg is what you have, run it and hope for that day.
 
I can't read between the lines. What do you need ? As in your 7.25 has failed ?
What do you want ? As in scrub melted tire off quarter skins ?
I got complete 8.25 drum to drum ready to roll from 75 a-body for 150 bucks. New U bolts, drive shaft length changed and done. It is open carrier and will stay just that. Mine was the need not the want.
 
I don't understand why you think doing an 8-1/4 would cost thousands of dollars. You could do a Dana for that money. I see 8-1/4"s with a sure grip sell for $250 to $300. Yes you can use a Ford 8.8 but you'll pay that for one of them and it won't directly bolt in and require one of the sides to be shortened to accommodate the off set driveshaft in a Mopar or it'll vibrate like crazy and eat U-joints and the transmission output bushing
 
66/67 B body housing is about 1 1/2" longer than A body and perches are about 1 inch wider.

That means your wheels will be 3/4" further outboard each side.

You will barely notice the difference in the perch location.

Moderate pressure from one spring to the other and it will literally drop on.

There's one on Orlando craigslist right now for $150.

This is a SUPER EASY swap.

M body is 1/2 inch wider overall than 66/67 B and 1/2 wider perch distance.

Better fit and better axle to do 66/67 B.
 
Last edited:
YY1 said:
66/67 B body housing is about 1 1/2" longer than A body and perches are about 1 inch wider.

That means your wheels will be 3/4" further outboard each side.

You will barely notice the difference in the perch location.

Moderate pressure from one spring to the other and it will literally drop on.

There's one on Orlando craigslist right now for $150.

This is a SUPER EASY swap.

M body is 1/2 inch wider overall than 66/67 B and 1/2 wider perch distance.

Better fit and better axle to do 66/67 B.
Click to expand...


Same exact I did to my 69 dart. Was able to get 5.5" backspace rims to get more tire under car. Looks better than stock IMO.
 
RedFish said:
I can't read between the lines. What do you need ? As in your 7.25 has failed ?
What do you want ? As in scrub melted tire off quarter skins ?
I got complete 8.25 drum to drum ready to roll from 75 a-body for 150 bucks. New U bolts, drive shaft length changed and done. It is open carrier and will stay just that. Mine was the need not the want.
Click to expand...
Similar question: OP, what engine do you have?
 
What do you 'disagree' with?
 
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