A warning about Evans Waterless Coolants

All good points, let's put it together. I've run cooling systems for pay and know a bit about glycol. Most of the negative is correct, purer glycol than a mix or solution does NOT conduct heat or transfer heat as well as pure water. In fact some system performance is deducted the stronger the solution, you balance the pros and cons of it with the freeze protection you need. The other is the thicker viscosity. You only need a few points of viscosity change to dramatically affect the water pump's ability to pump. Again I stay away from pure glycol, ethylene or propylene, for that too as well as trying to push molasses through the radiator or heater core. Life expectancy, how long will this last and the propensity for bio-fouling prevented? Bugs love propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol does need maintenance that without care or routine changing turns acidic, compounded with bad grounds and other neglect of the car you've turned your cooling system into a battery ripe with galvanic corrosion. On thermostats, you MUST always have a thermostat; beside temperature control, it also offers a necessary restriction so that flow is to ALL parts of the engine, especially the heads where with no restriction, water will seek the least path of resistance and can actually starve areas. The cooling system is based on flow, not pressure drop so the t'stat can act like a balancing device. If you're dead set against a thermostat, at least use a restrictor plate. RO water, never! in a cooling system. There's pure, and there's too pure and the water will pull metal ions out from everywhere.(think shim head gaskets or the copper jacketted) Hell it will even pull stuff out of tygon tube and schedule 80 PVC. They've recently come up with special plastic for it a few years back to use in laboratories and RO stations. Distilled is always safe and no worries about minerals and pH given the water quality of sources across the country. Lastly, excellent point on electrolysis. Check for any voltage potential between the coolant and battery ground. That's right, a probe in the coolant and one on the neg. batt post. You'll need a DMM or fine reading Simpson 260 but anything over a .25V it's time to check system grounds. This is especially damaging to aluminum components.