Lights flicker and gauge jumps around???
1....My gut says this is not a/ some bad diodes.
2...See if you can borrow a carbon pile / load tester, like this:
Lacking that, arrange so you can vary the load on the charging system. Headlights, heater, maybe round up some old headlights that work, etc.
3....Pull the VR connector and examine it carefully under light. You are looking for looseness / corrosion. Make ABSOLUTELY certain the VR is grounded. Remove it, scrape around the bolt holes and VR mount, and re-mount with start lock washers.
4...On 3, above, try alligator clip leads, hook the proper VR terminal to the field connection in the harness connector, and use a second alligator to jumper direct from the VR IGN terminal to the battery (starter relay stud) for testing.
Make some voltage checks with varying load, both "trying" to get the thing stable, and opposite. Measure from VR mount flange to battery NEG post. You should have ZERO voltage at best, and no more than a tenth or two at worst
Measure voltage from VR IGN terminal to battery +, with alligator leads jumpering the VR terminals to the VR connector. This is simply allowing you access. Measure this with key on / engine stopped, should be very low, lower the better. More than .3V (3/10 of one volt) means you have a problem developing.
Measure again, running, trying to get problem to show up.
IF POSSIBLE........swap in something else for an ignition system to eliminate interferance between your ign system and the VR.
5.....With system loaded heavy, lights, heater, etc energized, and running "at cruise" RPM, measure from alternator stud to battery positive. You should have very little drop there, the lower the better.
6.....WHERE IS the battery located, and HOW is it wired, exactly?
7....If you can NOT find anything else, and have not done so, sub a known good VR or a good quality replacement.
8.....THIS IS NOT LAST, nor is it "least." Make damn sure the belt is not slipping, or the PULLEY is not slipping
1....My gut says this is not a/ some bad diodes.
2...See if you can borrow a carbon pile / load tester, like this:
Lacking that, arrange so you can vary the load on the charging system. Headlights, heater, maybe round up some old headlights that work, etc.
3....Pull the VR connector and examine it carefully under light. You are looking for looseness / corrosion. Make ABSOLUTELY certain the VR is grounded. Remove it, scrape around the bolt holes and VR mount, and re-mount with start lock washers.
4...On 3, above, try alligator clip leads, hook the proper VR terminal to the field connection in the harness connector, and use a second alligator to jumper direct from the VR IGN terminal to the battery (starter relay stud) for testing.
Make some voltage checks with varying load, both "trying" to get the thing stable, and opposite. Measure from VR mount flange to battery NEG post. You should have ZERO voltage at best, and no more than a tenth or two at worst
Measure voltage from VR IGN terminal to battery +, with alligator leads jumpering the VR terminals to the VR connector. This is simply allowing you access. Measure this with key on / engine stopped, should be very low, lower the better. More than .3V (3/10 of one volt) means you have a problem developing.
Measure again, running, trying to get problem to show up.
IF POSSIBLE........swap in something else for an ignition system to eliminate interferance between your ign system and the VR.
5.....With system loaded heavy, lights, heater, etc energized, and running "at cruise" RPM, measure from alternator stud to battery positive. You should have very little drop there, the lower the better.
6.....WHERE IS the battery located, and HOW is it wired, exactly?
7....If you can NOT find anything else, and have not done so, sub a known good VR or a good quality replacement.
8.....THIS IS NOT LAST, nor is it "least." Make damn sure the belt is not slipping, or the PULLEY is not slipping