No spark
You need to figure if you have several things
1....Must have power to the coil when cranking. "Rig" your meter to the coil+ and watch the meter while cranking the engine USE THE KEY to do so, do not jumper the starter relay. You should have within a couple of tenths of a volt as 'same as battery.'. So after you read the coil+ / cranking, measure at the battery terminals. You want at least 10V or more
2....You have "sort of" determined the coil is good, as you switched the coil
3....If you do NOT have voltage to the coil, you can simply jumper a clip lead to a battery source, like the alternator output stud. DO NOT leave this hooked up longer than needed, you can damage the points and even the coil
4...After you get 1---3 above, determine if the points are conducting when closed, and opening. Turn the key to "run." Bump the engine round until the points are CLOSED. Measure both coil+ and coil --. You should have very LOW voltage at coil neg, and about 6--9 at coil POS
If you have this,.......
Bump the engine until the points are visibly open, and re-check. You should have "battery" at BOTH coil NEG and at coil POS
If you have this, chance the internal condenser (capacitor) inside the distributor.
5....I don't even use a feeler to set points. You can set them "on the starter" with a dwell meter. If you DO use a feeler, make sure you are careful, accurate, and that the feeler is clean. "Wiggle" the distributor shaft, looking for play and wear in the shaft / bushings.
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There are all kinds of "tricks" you can use. Get yourself a spark tester. There are all sorts of these. Check for spark RIGHT at the coil tower, and do NOT use the coil wire "to start with." The coil wire ITSELF could be bad!!!!
This is the one I use, about 7 bucks
"Rig" it into the coil tower and to ground, and crank the engine USING THE KEY. Watch for spark as you are cranking
If you have a good hot blue spark there, move to the coil wire. You can check the coil and plug wires with an ohmeter. The "old rule" was that they need to be less than 1000 ohms per foot. Modern wires are normally LESS
Inspect the cap and rotor for moisture, oil/ dirt/ debri, and spark damage, "carbon tracking". Remove the rotor and inspect for carbon tracking and "punch through" under the button in the center.
You need to figure if you have several things
1....Must have power to the coil when cranking. "Rig" your meter to the coil+ and watch the meter while cranking the engine USE THE KEY to do so, do not jumper the starter relay. You should have within a couple of tenths of a volt as 'same as battery.'. So after you read the coil+ / cranking, measure at the battery terminals. You want at least 10V or more
2....You have "sort of" determined the coil is good, as you switched the coil
3....If you do NOT have voltage to the coil, you can simply jumper a clip lead to a battery source, like the alternator output stud. DO NOT leave this hooked up longer than needed, you can damage the points and even the coil
4...After you get 1---3 above, determine if the points are conducting when closed, and opening. Turn the key to "run." Bump the engine round until the points are CLOSED. Measure both coil+ and coil --. You should have very LOW voltage at coil neg, and about 6--9 at coil POS
If you have this,.......
Bump the engine until the points are visibly open, and re-check. You should have "battery" at BOTH coil NEG and at coil POS
If you have this, chance the internal condenser (capacitor) inside the distributor.
5....I don't even use a feeler to set points. You can set them "on the starter" with a dwell meter. If you DO use a feeler, make sure you are careful, accurate, and that the feeler is clean. "Wiggle" the distributor shaft, looking for play and wear in the shaft / bushings.
=========================================
There are all kinds of "tricks" you can use. Get yourself a spark tester. There are all sorts of these. Check for spark RIGHT at the coil tower, and do NOT use the coil wire "to start with." The coil wire ITSELF could be bad!!!!
This is the one I use, about 7 bucks
"Rig" it into the coil tower and to ground, and crank the engine USING THE KEY. Watch for spark as you are cranking
If you have a good hot blue spark there, move to the coil wire. You can check the coil and plug wires with an ohmeter. The "old rule" was that they need to be less than 1000 ohms per foot. Modern wires are normally LESS
Inspect the cap and rotor for moisture, oil/ dirt/ debri, and spark damage, "carbon tracking". Remove the rotor and inspect for carbon tracking and "punch through" under the button in the center.