What rocker arms should I buy?

Caco2120 said

Again with the rocket appliances...lol

What does one do to correct this "factory imperfect" pushrod geometry? As I have run aluminum bodied rockers before....and used a pushrod length checker and all was well. I didnt have any overly bad pushrod angles.

So...say im standing over my car, with my new big money Hughes or Harland sharps..... I now make the phone call you suggest, and somehow someone on the other line can"fix" the factory pushrod angles?

Help me understand this please. I must be missing something

Click to expand...

Did you go to B3 racing engines web site? I really don't care if the wipe pattern is centered over the valve. I want the wipe pattern as NARROW as possible.

When you change ONE component, just ONE in the valve train from OE, you are affecting geometry and you CANT fix it with pushrod length. Unless you are working on a stud mounted system. At that point, you are beyond help!

Anyway, most guys change cams (is the base circle the same diameter?), did you change lift? Now that is TWO changes you made. Did you change the length ove the valve? THREE changes. Now change the rocker arm. That is FOUR changes. You have to correct for all these changes, even if it's just ONE change. Mike has come up with the best, least expensive system to correct for this. I used to do it with blocks and milling the stands off. Royal PITA. The B3 system is way easier and cheaper.

Chrysler guys need to LEARN geometry. For too many years guys have been throwing parts at stuff with no idea what they were doing.

All you have to do is look at the W2 valve system and see what Chrysler did when they went to longer valves. It's the same principle.