Front wheel bearings! What am i missing?

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i went yesterday to Bill and Ed's over in fontana and got my replacement Spindle.

i will be installing tonight.

i cant figure out if my bearing cup on the inner side of rotor is pressed in the rotor or not
 
so official term id brace?

so its inner bearing -brace- ROTOR- outer bearing-brace
washer-nut - castellated cup

im looking at the rear of the rotor and it looks like there one in there but could also look like part of the rotor. dont meant to sound like a NOOB at all
 
"R" as in race

Press in the inner & outer races 1st before doing any assembly...
 
I haven't read the entire thread, but if you ruined your spindle, you may also need to replace your rotor on that side. Make sure the races fit snug & aren't spinning in the hub.....
 
okay and bearing is cone shaped obviously so the bearings are pointed inwards towards the rotor correct?
 
The bearings may physically fit 2ways, but they can only fit together 1 way. The outer larger part is called a race.The inner smaller part with the rollers is called the cone bearing or cone for short. I have never seen the cone pressed onto the spindle. They have always come off with my fingers. The race is always a light press fit. If you replace it, you will have to check the rotor run out. If it is out of spec, the rotor will need to be lathe-turned.
But here's the deal: if the race is still tight in the rotor, and shows no physical damage and has no visible bluing on it, Then I see no reason to change it.If it is damaged or blued, well then new is the thing to do.I would only replace the rotor if the center-hole will no longer accept the press fit. Sealing the seal is not a big deal.
I have noticed that somewhere along the line, replacement rotors are arriving with new races pre-installed, making it easy for you to bolt them on. That's a bonus.
 
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Just because there's no bluing doesn't mean there's no damage. If the bearing got excessively hot I'd replace it. Wheel bearings is one place I would not go on the cheap.



AJ/FormS said:
The bearings may physically fit 2ways, but they can only fit together 1 way. The outer larger part is called a race.The inner smaller part with the rollers is called the cone bearing or cone for short. I have never seen the cone pressed onto the spindle. They have always come off with my fingers. The race is always a light press fit. If you replace it, you will have to check the rotor run out. If it is out of spec, the rotor will need to be lathe-turned.
But here's the deal: if the race is still tight in the rotor, and shows no physical damage and has no visible bluing on it, Then I see no reason to change it.If it is damaged or blued, well then new is the thing to do.I would only replace the rotor if the center-hole will no longer accept the press fit. Sealing the seal is not a big deal.
I have noticed that somewhere along the line, replacement rotors are arriving with new races pre-installed, making it easy for you to bolt them on. That's a bonus.
Click to expand...
 
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Yeah got a new rotor, new replacement spindle and new bearing. Installing now.

Thank Jeff, we got this one for now.

I'll get you on the next one
 
FINISHED HER LAST NIGHT.

after dragging because of the 109* heat SoCal people aren't used to this heat...


But shes driving fine.

Replaced the spindle, the brake pads, the Rotor, the studs, Bearings and Races and Washer, nut, cotter pin and packed a whole bunch of grease into it.

great work guys!

thanks for the lesson i learned a lot.
 
dart4forte said:
Just because there's bluing doesn't mean there's no damage. If the bearing got excessively hot I'd replace it. Wheel bearings is one place I would not go on the cheap.
Click to expand...

It's not like wheel bearings are a big ticket item either.........yet, I am always amazed how many people will say "is that the best you can do" on a 6 dollar wheel bearing.
 
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