Edelbrock Carburetor tuning question...

:eek::eek:

Johnny Dart said

Have you ever done an A/F ratio test ?
Do you have any idea what your A/F ratio is at idle, cruise, wide open ?
How about fuel pressure at these stages ?
What makes you think you have to go richer, or grab the parts off a 750 to make it run better ?
Just wondering if you have sound proof on which way you need to shoot, or are you just taking a shot in the dark ?
With all the missed matched parts from 750 etc, your carb is way out of wack. If I were you I would set everything back to the box stock settings. Jets, springs, rods.
As long as you have the right matched carb for the application, Edes generally run pretty well with the factory settings, give or take a couple small tweaks.
These Edes are generally the easiest carbs to set up. Unless you have alot of experience with Holleys, they are not going to be any easier.

Click to expand...

Well, I will tell you like this. In stock form, it would completely die when punched at a dead idle. Now, with the accelerator pump on "rich" and the 750 squirters in there, it doesn't "die", but is still somewhat flat. No A/F ratio, no fuel pressure gage, no sound proofing, but my "shot in the dark" has helped it considerably. I would like to take another "shot in the dark" with step up springs. If this don't work, I'll throw a "shot in the dark" Holley at it and I bet it will work perfect! But shoot, my whole project is a mismatched "shot in the dark" 318. I mean, 340 cast intake on 318 heads is mismatched, and a 100 dollar cam, I didn't degree it either, it was a shot in the dark, and using a socket and a screw driver to bench flow the dremeled heads, that was a shot in the dark. Without headers, stock converter, 2.76 gears, it ran 94 mph (better than a perfectly matched from the factory'73 340 duster with 3.21's. You know what they say, it's better to be lucky than good (hope you have a sense of humor)... LOL