Practically Clueless Newbie Needs Help Getting His Dart Up and Running

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TheMoparNoob

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Hey guys, ive got a problem! A few months ago, the 225 in my dart started knocking. It has about 115k on it, and had never been timed, or the valves adjusted in its life apparently. Me and my dad got it apart just a couple months back, and discovered cylinder #4 back from the front of the car was making pretty serious contact with the i believe intake valve, actually causing a nice deeper clunk sound. i thought before tearing into it, that it was bottom end, but the damn valve was very pitted, as in, basically flat. I ask, should i get the whole motor rebuilt/ rebuild it myself, or just try and see if i can get a new head and new rings and maybe bearings, sort of a budget rebuild? id like to save money here, im 16 and working at a local pizza place making 7.25 an hour. a rebuild kit online ( A master kit) costs between $400 and $500 dollars, and i was wondering how much it would cost to have a shop do the work, an estimate at least.(I have about 250 massed up right now, and a brand new set of push rods, and id like to cruise this thing to school in august) Ive only got 1200 in the thing, but it needs a lot of cosmetic work , some bad rust too. fairly fresh 904 trans though. Drove the thing home, it topped out at about 45 mph. Due to bad maintenance i suspect mostly, single barrel carb on it. Thanks for the help guys, much appreicated. P.S- im in north georgia, close to canton , and if anyone who knows what theyre doing would be willing to help me rebuild it or show me whats what, thatd be awesome.

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Sounds like a total rebuild and you'll save big on doing it yourself. If you so want to attempt this, start with a good book for reference. Mopar may still have a book on the slanted engine.
 
The Mopar Performance 6-cylinder book is full of errors and badly outdated info/advice. Not worthwhile. Get the books described in this thread quick as you can. And yes, with a badly neglected car on top of internal damage, a full rebuild is the way to go, complete with all the parts cleanup, measurement, reconditioning and resizing as necessary, etc.

There are engine-build threads over at www.slantsix.org , too.
 
only you can decide whether you want to rebuild it yourself or "farm" it out - either way, it needs to be done. As a point of semi-comparison - - I sent my 360 out and had the bottom redone - cleaned up, new bearings, rings and a new cam - cost me the better part of a grand - - yep, expensive.. BUT - I know it's done right and I knew going in that I have neither the time nor the special tools required to do it properly - - you have to factor those things into your decision. Make some phone calls and get some estimates.. do some reading and understand what is involved with rebuilding an engine.. some of the needed tools are pretty expensive... what's your time worth? Nothing teaches like experience and a /6 is a great place to start, the tools (if you buy them) are a worth while investment - you'll always have them for "next time" - just about everyone here is willing to give advice and there is a lot of knowledge here for sure.. I wish you luck with it no matter which way you go!
 
find a "runner" on craigslist and drop it in. Take yours apart and find out what makes it "tick" (literally and figuratively) Could just be a bad valve or worn seat. I took a 100k slant down to pistons and it didnt even have a ridge in the cylinder, the one it had was only carbon and I just wiped it out with a brillo pad. exhaust seats on old slants are prone to sink as they were not hardened for unleaded fuel. Shop work is expensive and the slant is a very forgiving motor. Guys with money or purists will advise a professional rebuild but I was there with you once (making 3.35/hr) and I was scraping for gas money let alone parts: I got away with reusing head gaskets! A valve job might be the minimum you want to do professionally. Maybe under $100 walking it in depending on where you live. Good luck.
 
As stated slants are pretty hard to kill and often tossed aside for the V-8 swaps. Scan CL and also post up in parts wanted and I bet you will get some hits..... A good used slant usually only needs a set of valve stem seals, timing chain and some TLC to be a good driver.
 
Not to minimize, what most are saying, cuz I agree with them, but;
At 115k on it, I'd be tempted to just to a valve job, and a timing chain, and call it done. I've been in your economic situation.For most of my life actually.

And while it's true that the rings or bearings might not be the best, I would be willing to take the chance.I mean what will it cost to find out? Time. Just time. Maybe a gasket or two.
I'm the guy that reuses the head gaskets;sometimes several times. The gaskets on my 367 are on their third life. I last put them on there in about 2004 or maybe as late as 2005.I love those FelPros.
 
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I feel sorry for anybody that believes the odometer on a 40 year old car. I would do total complete rebuild. Including new pistons and bores. This will cost about $1200. But when done, you will have an engine that will last another 40 years.
 
it is all bout how many $$ exist! good used slants are there for fee up to maybe $250. take the old engine down like said, and see what it looks like. learn about the engine. maybe a complete rebuild is in the cards for later? why do people look at the speedo on these old cars, and think it gives the mileage??
 
Because people don't do the math. In normal usage, a car usually puts 10,000 mile per year. In the first 10 years that would 100,000 miles. 30 years later, what do you think the mileage would be. Something considerable more then 100,000 miles.

Putting in a used engine is a short gap measure at best. Yeah you can find them cheap, but there is usually a reason . I consider any used engine a core a best.
 
I would put a cheap used runner in it. I wouldn't really want to be the driver to have to wear out a fresh rebuilt slant.
I would be tired of it long before and pull it for a V8.
But that's just me.
Some guys luv the slants.
 
Find a used slant,machine shops are pricey ,on a student's budget. Best of luck,price shop on parts,you might get shocked on price variances...
 
I would put a cheap used runner in it. I wouldn't really want to be the driver to have to wear out a fresh rebuilt slant.
I would be tired of it long before and pull it for a V8.
But that's just me.
Some guys luv the slants.

The problem of finding and stashing a parts car to get most of what you need for the swap is more the problem. Around here anyways, we don't have yards full of 40 year old stuff....it's 20. Then the parts car you buy will probably need the Trans and engine gone through anyways which puts you more behind.
 
I believe he just needs a running 225 slant, not an entire parts car.
I have always had to give them away to prevent having to store them.
It was never easy to find someone that would use it rather than sell as scrap weight.
He probably could find a good running 225 engine thru this site without much effort or cost.
 
Yes, agreed. Swapping to a different type engine complicates the problem.
 
Not to minimize, what most are saying, cuz I agree with them, but;
At 115k on it, I'd be tempted to just to a valve job, and a timing chain, and call it done.

And while it's true that the rings or bearings might not be the best, I would be willing to take the chance.I mean what will it cost to find out? Time. Just time. Maybe a gasket or two.

I agree with the above. Take the head off and find a shop to check it out and do a valve job. Even easier, drop in a running used engine.
I did a complete rebuild on a 225 and you don't have the money for that right now.
 
I've picked up a few slants over the years for 100 bucks... Been running one of them in Hoopty for 6 years. I did take precautions and inspect before installing and replace gaskets and all of the bolt ons such as water and fuel pumps etc. They're out there and not many people want them... cept us :D
 
Check those freeze plugs before install......haha. just had the manifolds off in winter. One of mine is a block heater....it's leaking. Luckily it only leaks after a good long highway drive. So it will carry me through summer. But damn.
 
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