Ters
Mopar infected...
E-core fitted and tested....running great!! Hei unit own designated earth also done, only alternator to sort....she still wants to keep on running. Lol!
Ters.
Ters.
Hei /6 won't shut off?
- Thread starter Ters
- Start date
-
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Nice coil. It is similar to a FORD TFI coil with fast-on terminals with mounting bracket. Good it has terminals marked. Automotive component pinouts, specifications, and specialized connectors are often hard to find.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Just saw you post about still wants to run-on. It most likely has to do with undesired relay coil activation by a leakage current. The first thing to do would be to use a meter to view relay coil voltage. Then see what happens when the key is turned off.
12V relays typically need about 100mA (0.1A) on coil to pull-in, but holding current may be about 1/4 of that. The added diode should have blocked the charge indicator lamp from sourcing from the alternator on shut down. Does the indicator lamp light with ignition on before starting? It should if wired in correctly. It should also block voltage that the alternators sources at that point on shutdown. The indicator is illuminated when the indicator circuit is low (alternator not putting out), the diode offsets that off by about 0.7V but the indicator will still light.
If the indicator is working, then there might be another leakage path on the switched ignition source.
12V relays typically need about 100mA (0.1A) on coil to pull-in, but holding current may be about 1/4 of that. The added diode should have blocked the charge indicator lamp from sourcing from the alternator on shut down. Does the indicator lamp light with ignition on before starting? It should if wired in correctly. It should also block voltage that the alternators sources at that point on shutdown. The indicator is illuminated when the indicator circuit is low (alternator not putting out), the diode offsets that off by about 0.7V but the indicator will still light.
If the indicator is working, then there might be another leakage path on the switched ignition source.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
I think this should be your circuit.
When engine is stopped, the alternator indicator circuit is low (no voltage). When the Ignition is "on" and alternator is stopped, the indicator is "on" because current flows from battery, closed ignition switch, bulb, diode (with arrow) to ground by low at indicator connection. When car is started, alternator spins, and the current in the indicator circuit starts the regulator action. In most systems there is a delay, so the alternator does not load the starter motor, and avoid all the high current and voltage spikes. When the alternator puts out voltage the indicator circuit goes to high, so the bulb sees near zero voltage (voltage is the difference between each end) and is "out".
The run-on, is caused when the diode is not connected correctly, shorted, or another source of leakage powers the relay, after ignition switch is turned off. It can be a minor amount of leakage, since holding current for the relay is much lower than close current. A 25 mA leakage is also low enough to miss detection with test bulb, but enough to keep relay closed and engine running.
The leakage could even be in the alternator regulator, relay itself or accessory electronics equipment, or anything that connects both to battery and switch ignition circuit.
When engine is stopped, the alternator indicator circuit is low (no voltage). When the Ignition is "on" and alternator is stopped, the indicator is "on" because current flows from battery, closed ignition switch, bulb, diode (with arrow) to ground by low at indicator connection. When car is started, alternator spins, and the current in the indicator circuit starts the regulator action. In most systems there is a delay, so the alternator does not load the starter motor, and avoid all the high current and voltage spikes. When the alternator puts out voltage the indicator circuit goes to high, so the bulb sees near zero voltage (voltage is the difference between each end) and is "out".
The run-on, is caused when the diode is not connected correctly, shorted, or another source of leakage powers the relay, after ignition switch is turned off. It can be a minor amount of leakage, since holding current for the relay is much lower than close current. A 25 mA leakage is also low enough to miss detection with test bulb, but enough to keep relay closed and engine running.
The leakage could even be in the alternator regulator, relay itself or accessory electronics equipment, or anything that connects both to battery and switch ignition circuit.
Last edited:
Ters
Mopar infected...
Dear sir, I think some misunderstanding earlier? I only fitted the 1A Diode today.....and it works!!!
I appreciate all your advice and patience sir, she switches off with the key now. I had to buy 10 for a "pricey "R10" (less than $1!!).
Thank you so much again!!
Ters.
KitCarlson
Well-Known Member
Great news! No loss, the information may help others, some distant time in the future.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
!!EXCELLENT!!
-
