Thermostat question
I love books they are knowledgeable little creatures, and knowledge is power. I picked up the whole series of Mopar, “Learn to Earn” books when the local liberty decided to close its doors. The books are a little dated but have the basic information on why and how things are the way they are.
Thinking outside of the box, why would a car manufacture make a car that would overheat driving down the road? If this is the case, knowing they would be out of businesses none the less. But they didn't all is well, a factory stock engine and car will indeed last many years and many happy miles, with regular maintenance practices outline in the owners manual usually provided with the auto.
ALMOST, all modification will have direct impact, over stock factory products. To put this in semi math terms. 1 modification = 2 or more modifications as needed for the one. For example for my 70 dart, I decided to go HEI module upgrade, buy the module and HEI mount for the distributor. Had to modify the distributor holes for the mount, modify for the pickup coil. Up grade the coil, wires, opened the plug gaps, modified the ballast resistor with a copper wire soldered in-place of the resistor. And maybe left out a few things...this is the price I willing to pay to remove the point and condenser system.
So getting back to the overheating, and we know the car never left the factory with an overheating problem, (we hope) what is different what modifications over factory stock? Stock we can look at, belt slipping, thermostat, timing, collapsed hoses, plugged radiator, just to name a few. Now for the mods, modification to the engine, high performance engines, (not stock factory high performance) and small block to big block. Any increase in horse power over stock= increase in cooling over stock, you must have a larger surface area over factory stock to cool properly, fact. Using an upgraded aluminum radiator and electric fans may or may not work for your application and it may work just fine for someone else. Traveling down the road you would be surprised how little air passed through the radiator, hence the use of the engine fan blades and the ever forgotten fan shroud. Air does not want to be force into something, air likes vacuum, again the blades and fan shroud create a vacuum. I am a believer of the fan mount to the water pump and shroud, use the horse power you got. I like the idea of using a pusher fan in town driving, manual off and on switch just to “help” along. Is there such a test where you can just fill the radiator you have with water and measure it, then do the same with a stock one for the year of engine you have? Well I hope I helped, maybe some good reading.....
I love books they are knowledgeable little creatures, and knowledge is power. I picked up the whole series of Mopar, “Learn to Earn” books when the local liberty decided to close its doors. The books are a little dated but have the basic information on why and how things are the way they are.
Thinking outside of the box, why would a car manufacture make a car that would overheat driving down the road? If this is the case, knowing they would be out of businesses none the less. But they didn't all is well, a factory stock engine and car will indeed last many years and many happy miles, with regular maintenance practices outline in the owners manual usually provided with the auto.
ALMOST, all modification will have direct impact, over stock factory products. To put this in semi math terms. 1 modification = 2 or more modifications as needed for the one. For example for my 70 dart, I decided to go HEI module upgrade, buy the module and HEI mount for the distributor. Had to modify the distributor holes for the mount, modify for the pickup coil. Up grade the coil, wires, opened the plug gaps, modified the ballast resistor with a copper wire soldered in-place of the resistor. And maybe left out a few things...this is the price I willing to pay to remove the point and condenser system.
So getting back to the overheating, and we know the car never left the factory with an overheating problem, (we hope) what is different what modifications over factory stock? Stock we can look at, belt slipping, thermostat, timing, collapsed hoses, plugged radiator, just to name a few. Now for the mods, modification to the engine, high performance engines, (not stock factory high performance) and small block to big block. Any increase in horse power over stock= increase in cooling over stock, you must have a larger surface area over factory stock to cool properly, fact. Using an upgraded aluminum radiator and electric fans may or may not work for your application and it may work just fine for someone else. Traveling down the road you would be surprised how little air passed through the radiator, hence the use of the engine fan blades and the ever forgotten fan shroud. Air does not want to be force into something, air likes vacuum, again the blades and fan shroud create a vacuum. I am a believer of the fan mount to the water pump and shroud, use the horse power you got. I like the idea of using a pusher fan in town driving, manual off and on switch just to “help” along. Is there such a test where you can just fill the radiator you have with water and measure it, then do the same with a stock one for the year of engine you have? Well I hope I helped, maybe some good reading.....
