I have less cam and less head, My 367 went 93 in the 1/8th@3650 race wt. I have full 3 inch exhaust to the bumper, and a 750DP.
-I have a stick-car with a 10.97 starter gear(3.55 x 3.09) and I babied it out at 3000 cuz it blows the 325/50-15DRs away most of those 93 mphs.(street suspension, no traction aides)
It will spin the 295s down to just above idle, with the line lock on.It will break 295s loose at 45/50mph with just a stomp.
Specs
4.04 x 3.58 =367cubes
OOTB Eddies, RPM-AG & 750DP
10.75Scr, 8.7Dcr,.034Quench,175 psi cylinder pressure (aluminum heads)
HE3037cam. 276/286/110, lift .549/.571, .050 of 230/237
Timing; 14/34@3400 (plus 22 ported)
Full twin 3inch pipes with TTIs, and Dynomaxers
I am at 900ft.
NearlyPAGE 6 and still no compression numbers.
-The compression results are the number one go-to when power is in question. If you don't have at least 165 with iron heads, you will never be happy.
And a leakdown is the number 2 test. You are looking for less than 4%, Under 2% on a fresh engine, And close to zero with file-fit plasma Molys.
I also agree with that TC being a total mismatch, And that cam will want to be shifted deep into the 6000s. With 3.23s your engine is sleeping most of the way to 85. In second gear it is barely awake at 85.She is only pulling from 40 mph to whenever you shifted, Ima guessing 60mph.Then the Rs are back in the basement struggling from 3600ish, to hit 85 at 5200ish. So basically that engine is putting down full power from 40 to 60, and maybe from 78 to 85. That totals 27 mph. Out of 85 that is just 32% of the run! Of course it is slow!
-Something has got to go!
Either A)the 3.23s are out(along with that TC), or B)the cam. Pick one based on useage.
With 10/1 Scr,and with a 66*ICA, the Wallace calculator spits out 7.96Dcr, and 158psi at sealevel. These are not bad numbers for iron heads.
-If you really wanna hit 90 say, you will need a final drive ratio of 5.81. Almost obviously you are not interested in that. So you are gonna have to trap at the top of second gear. So 5.81/1.54 =3.77 the closest being 3.73s. These will get you 90 @ 6400 with 27 inch tires. Then, to get off the line you will need at least a 3000TC or better. And yeah drop the pipes. And yeah forget the vacuum secondary carb.The formula for carb selection is (CID X RPM)/3456. so (360 x 6400)/3456 =666cfm; so at 600 you are a solid 10%undersized;according to the formula. Working the formula backwards, you are good to about 5800.
-Then experiment with different 1-2 shift points. With the wide ratio 904(2.74-1.54-1.00)Ima thinking 6600 or better. Maybe as high as 6800. Make sure your valve springs, lifters, and lifter preloads, are up to the task.
-6400 might sound like too high to trap at, but with ported heads the engine will pull long after the power peak, and the option is 3.55s, and that will not cut it out of the gate. So Ima thinking 3.73s is the minimum gear.3.55s being 95% of 3.73s would pull the trap rpm to a corresponding 95% which would be 6100.
Your long-block looks solid.
This is the order I would upgrade if funds are limited;
(1)exhaust,(2)exhaust, (3)TC, (4)gears or carb, (5)carb or gears.
If you do it one atta time, post results here, so others can learn too.
Dusterguy
You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust.What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this. But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 10% more charge with scavenging, it will feel 10% bigger than without.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.