problem with dual point no spark

Note line A (where the vac can tip points)
Note where plug tower B is
Turn the distributor vac can back towards the firewall and see if wire X can be positioned where tower B is.
If so, then your answer is yes and you need to move all the wires one tower counter clockwise.

Then if it doesn't work out you know right where to put the distributor back to, and you can find out if it's possible before changing the wires.

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I moved them all one spot before i got back to this post and was almost at firewall. Moved them all back one again and was good with enough space to hit the bolt to tighten the lockdown. I could not get continuity when the points were "closed" fiddled with them some more and noticed they were not touching. I adjusted one set until i got continuity then put paper in that pair and then adjusted the other set again until i did. It is running again. It seems to be running ok i will check my timing again and go for a spin today to see.

It's not clear to me how you actually gapped the points. It is IMPORTANT that points gap be properly set. A dwell meter is the best way, a feeler gauge is less accurate. You must set the two separately. If you look carefully, one set is the "firing" set, that is, as the dist rotates, at some point both points are closed. As the dist rotates, one set opens, but the second is still closed. There is no spark. Then WHILE the first set is open, the second set opens so that BOTH are now open. THAT IS the point at which the spark is made.

I used to set them like this:

"Rough them in." Block the "firing" (last opening) set open, and set the other points for proper dwell. Then unblock that set and set the second set for "total" dwell, as I posted in the chart earlier.

You want them to "lean towards" more open to start with, as they wear towards closed. So block that one set, and set dwell about 28 (27--32). Then unblock the other set and set those with both points operating for about 38. (37--42) Be sure to put "a bit' of hi temp lube on the leading edge of the rubbing block. GOOD quality points used to come with it, and you used to be able to buy lube in little tubes

Anything is better than nothing, but don't use too much.

Always set timing AFTER you have made any points adjustments

yellow rose said:

I asked my first girlfriend that and got slapped.


I never asked her that again!

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Then she just wasn't a fun gal.

I would just love to doctor that up BUT THANKS TO SOFWARE IMPROVEMENTS, multi quote don' woik!!!!!

I would love and as a younger man when points were more prevalent have seen and had easier access to a dwell machine. Now I just separate set each set at open on lobe.

DECIPHER said:

I would love and as a younger man when points were more prevalent have seen and had easier access to a dwell machine. Now I just separate set each set at open on lobe.

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I see them on CL here locally all the time. If you have access, a 'scope (oscilloscope) is a far more accurate way. You must calculate the percent open / closed time, I don't remember that anymore

Ok so my points or something is still hosed I'm getting weird bogging no power have via timing light set correct but just down street and back way too much unburnt fuel that the carb is gurgling after shut off basically won't get out of its own way

Did you follow Del's advice and use a dwell meter?

My goal this weekend to pickup one

Trying to remember the last time I had anything dual points LOL. The 67 would have been single point (it was not a Commando) and it came with a breakerless conversion.

I guess "in the 80's" I had a dual point on and off, in the 340 powered Landcruiser. It met an unglorious end

At it's "height" (which wasn't all that "hi") 340, A833 with Advance Adapter up against a Jeep "straight through" transfer, stock LC differentials. The old one I had had a "centered" rear pumkin, so the shaft went right down the middle, leaving room to tuck Walker / Maremont "real" Corvair turbo muffs up under there. Poncho brake booster, GM power steering box, (for awhile) a Warn 8000 lb "wench."

I used to joke that "everything on it that moved, made noise, and everything on it moves."



The LC had a clapped out 283 in it when I bought it. It did not burn oil, it simply had no power. The second winter before I yanked it out, I used to start out from a snowy stop sign in 2nd gear, low range, and double clutch the transfer case into high

Over the years, it had a 360, 340, and 318

Ignition varied from the factory 340 dual point, to an adapted GM Corvette breakerless tach drive, to a Mopar breakerless, and then (one of the now rare) MSD direct plug in boxes, plugs right into the Mopar harness, MSD5A or something?

That's where I learned the Mopar boxes DO NOT LIKE getting wet.......we'd be "out" in the snow, the mud, the water, and splash would get up under the hood and douche the Mopar ECU, and it would not run, or not very well. I finally mounted the Mopar box up under the dash, and later, put the MSD up in there as well

!!!DESERT DOGS!!!! Very good tire for all around N Idaho off road and mud, TERRIBLE on the street on ice, not bad in deep snow. Not near tall enough!!! Tread life? NOT!!!



What I had on there last was a set of BF Goodrich All Terrain. In the photo above, the Goodrich are on the front, and Desert Dogs on the rear. I think that was because last it was used for snow, I had cut-down heavy truck chains on the rear, and they would not fit the BFs

This is some of the pain and joy of old cars. I will Install old dizzy again with a new vac today also put on my 1850 holly again that was working. Make sure im running good again then go back to distributor again make sure its good and go back to the carter. Steps again and ill figure out where my issue is.

It just takes a little back and forth. With the distributor in the back it's hard to see the gap and it's easy to accidentally prop it too wide by twisting the gauge or catching the tip on a screw head. I usually mark the base to preserve the timing, pull the distributor and put it in the bench vise, then gap each set of points, put it back and check the dwell. I have a small chunk of balsa wood in my toolbox for propping points open, so I can check the dwell for each set separately, and then the total. I usually wind up with one set at the wide end of the range, and the other at the narrow end, and the total right in the middle.

My initial reaction at seeing the original "no spark" post was to check the ground wire on the breaker plate. Since this flexes every time advance comes into play, it can fray pretty badly, and even break. I have had to replace it a couple of times over thirty-some years.

I pulled it back out and put my holley back on. Back to running good again. I need to get more lube into the dual point as it stick when it sits. and figure the dwell / points setup on it. And my hipo carter afb i need to pull and rebuild. then go back to them again.

I ran duel points for years hot ones go through condensers ,always have a spare

Put my single back in because it runs need to mess with the setup of the dual