Getting the most power out of my 400 stage 6 heads

My biggest thing with this at the moment is picking the right size cam, sorry about writing a book but it has some points so bear with me here I picked this 400 up a while back as a "running engine" for a cheap price, the guy pulled it out of his super bee charger to put a 440 in, he got the car with the engine in it and didn't know anything about it. My original plan was to check it out, if I liked what I seen inside, throw it in the car to get it running but of course I wanted to pull the oil pan and heads to see what I had "I needed to to put the proper oil pan on anyway", which before I put an engine in something i don't know the background on I like to check it out anyway. Make sure it's all good. Well someone before me either loosened or didn't tighten the intake bolts well and it was actually missing a bolt on each side and the 906s burned a few valve seats out... Otherwise engine was perfect and clean enough to eat off of.. The engine is either very low miles or someone freshened it up, it's still standard bore so I'm assuming its stock Pistons, but they aren't as far down the hole as smogger 440s I've pulled apart theyre about .075-.080 down. bearings are in really good shape and I can still see hone marks in the cylinders. Someone tapped the oil pickup for 1/2" hemi size pickup, it had a 509 purple shaft and a Holley single plane street dominator intake, 7qt oil pan, 906 heads with valve work and mild porting and regular thick paper type head gaskets.
I'm thinking the motor may have been balanced, the crank counterweights have a good bit of metal drilled out and on the rod caps they don't have numbers stamped on them like most machine shops do that I can see but it has different symbols on each rod and rod cap like clover leaf, spade, diamonds, symbols like a deck of cards I've never seen that before...

Now onto The details of my car 72 dart, fiberglass hood, trunk pan is gone so I'll probably be replacing with aluminum, or would that hurt traction too much? I may gut the trunk lid. 8.75 rear, 3.91 sure grip, previous owner had new super stock springs, relocate kit, pinion snubber, mini tubbed, aftermarket torsion bars, aftermarket manual steering box, manual brakes, disc conversion in front, installed I'll be installing frame connectors, and a cage, i have a 12 point cage but I may just make it a 6 point for now if it breaks the track required e.t. I may try to keep the back seat, because my 5 year old daughter already told me I need the back seat so she can ride in it lol I'm putting in lighter weight front seats. (Originals are long gone I'll be running 10.5 or 12" slicks or drag radials. Probably a 28" or so tall. Car will be a bracket car a couple weekends a month, they run 1/8th and 1/4 mile at the track, 1/8th on weekends so I'll probably be running that more often than 1/4 but I'll also drive around town a little to pick up chicks (joking) and to have a little fun with the ls guys around here. And drive to the local cruise in... I have a good cooling system, Griffin radiator, 440 source hi flow pump and alum housing, plastic flex fan and maybe an electric fan on the front of radiator as well..
I have a set of stage 6 heads, 68cc chamber so with 20+cc less than the stock heads its bumping the compression to 9.39 with a felpro gasket, 9.89 with a steel shim gasket, can steal shim gaskets be used with alum heads? Heads were done by David porter They've been modified for external oiling so the original oil ports between the intake ports were blocked off to allow more porting and also is suppose to improve top end oiling, it uses the external lines that feed from the oil plug at the back of the block like the Indy heads. and have epoxy in parts of the ports so they were done quiet nicely. Which in the future when funds allow I plan on stroking the 400 and putting the heads to good use, but for now a stroker isn't in the budget. And I don't have any other heads and I figure these will help compression and a lot more flow over any factory head and I already have them sitting there waiting to be bolted on. I have 3 converters on my shelf to choose from, one is a tci 26-2800, I have a 3,000-3300, and a 35-3700ish
Now my first thing is a camshaft grind that I can run with the flat top no valve relief Pistons, I know with them being a little down in the hole that will act somewhat as a valve relief. What's the most lift I can get away with? But I know duration and lsa effects that more than lift, Wjen the intake valve is at full lift the piston is down on the stroke, so nowhere near the piston. I don't want to over Cam the engine being they say the low decks are easy to overcam, but I think that's more with street engines and stock type heads? Which with no valve reliefs I know I won't be able to run a monster fan anyway I'm thinking a 110lsa? I do want a nice wide power band, not just a bunch of power at one rpm. im looking at comp cams, and oh yeah flat tappet, not a roller. For one comp seems to make good cams for mopar from what I've seen and I have a buddy that works at a parts store in town so I can get them at a significant discount, much less than anyone online or summit etc. I think he could get other name brands as well. I was wondering about the Comp high lift .525 or .545? Or something in the extreme energy line? There so many choices out there and so many factors here with what I can run without putting a valve thru a piston... Also I don't want one that will cause me to lose a lot of compression, if anything maybe help it.
Now onto intake I'm thinking an rb intake would be better because of the longer intake runners would help the torque, keep in mind the stage 6 heads use spacers that bolt to the head, not cast-in like a lot of newer heads so with a low deck you can run an rb intake or a b intake with spacers. For rb engines I have a torker 2, and a performer Rpm, the rpm has had plenum work with the center divider cut down, and beveled, and also the short turns worked, torker 2 has plenum work. For low deck I have a eddy tm6 with port matching and a Holley street dominator with plenum work and porting, but with whichever intake I run I'll have a deep port match to the heads of course im thinking the torker2 maybe? I'm wanting to try to get my dart into 11s, maybe high 10s if possible, and I also have a couple n20 kits laying around so putting a small shot on it will maybe happen to get it there... I've seen guys put similar heads on 383s before so why can't I do it with a 400?