Aluminum heads...

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inkjunkie

inkjunkie

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Years ago was told by a radiator shop that over the course of many miles of coolant flowing through aluminum that the aluminum will erode, the results being a plugged radiator. Any truth?
Reason I ask...my Duramax has developed a small cooling problem. Has a digital temperature gauge. Up to recently the only way to get the temperature above 187* was to put 8000 pounds on the trailer and push it...hard. Like 90mph in 115* heat...climbing a hill. Now, empty, climbing a gentle grade the temp climbs to 200*.
 
As far as cooling system I use cascade you can buy it in food store. Also check you'r air intake system, loose clamps, dirty air filter, try a garden hose from the engine side of the rad.
 
Is 200°F really all that hot? Seems like a very normal operating temperature for a newer vehicle.
 
The problem is not the 200 by itself. It the change over time and the ease with which the temp rises.
I would suspect the airflow through the rad has been compromised. Either the condenser fins are packed with dirt or mud, or the rad itself may also have blocked fins.
If that don't find it I would be checking the exhaust back-pressure

'Course the check-engine lite is off;right?

As to the heads eroding into the rad, I guess that must take more than 17 years cuz my rad is is still fine.
 
The Ford Diesels use a specially formulated coolant that also requires testing at regular intervals for scaling, nitrates etc.. using test strips. Depending on the results either an additive is used or the entire system is flushed and coolant replaced.
 
AJ/FormS said:
The problem is not the 200 by itself. It the change over time and the ease with which the temp rises.
I would suspect the airflow through the rad has been compromised. Either the condenser fins are packed with dirt or mud, or the rad itself may also have blocked fins.
If that don't find it I would be checking the exhaust back-pressure

'Course the check-engine lite is off;right?

As to the heads eroding into the rad, I guess that must take more than 17 years cuz my rad is is still fine.
Click to expand...
You are correct, no CEL. Exhaust is free flowing. Intercooler is in front of the radiator, looked at it the best I could, don't see any obstructions. While back a piece of a tarp got sucked up in front of the Intercooler. Truck still ran at its normal temperature so I don't know if some bent fins would be enough to cause this. Few months ago I had 7500 pounds behind the truck. Was only 55*...climbed the grade just across the bridge. Gauge hit an time high of 225*. Grade is perhaps a mile. Truck didn't even unlock the converter or come out of OD...so the truck wasn't working hard. Have hauled 14k up the same grade, in 90* heat....and the temperature didn't climb over 190*...something definitely ain't right.
I need to check my maintenance book...I may be wrong about the frequency of coolant changes. Of course the radiator has plastic tanks...so a simple rodding ain't gonna happen..
 
I meant A/C condenser.These fins are very close together and you may not be able to see dirt even if you get eyes on it. The best way to get that dirt out is to remove the coolant rad, and flush the fins forward from the engine side. I use shop water at 50/55psi through a garden hose with an adjustable nozzle. I watch the discharge water. When the mud stops I quit,lol. Then I turn my attention to the coolant rad. If you have a thermostatic clutch fan, this is a good time to check it.
 
Plastic tank rads dont last long, get a replacement and flush everything. Bi metal engines require more frequent coolant changes to keep corrosion to a minimum. The real damage is not to heads, its head gaskets that go away first.
 
I must be on the wrong thread because last time I checked, a Duramax was a Turbo Diesel Chevy/GM which is both diesel and turbo but not a powerjoke....have your rad flow tested and if its slowing down(clogged) then buy a new one. You dont really want to blow a tank off the core next time you are working your truck, by the time you realize it happened, its too late for the engine. It doesnt take very long ie 60 seconds at 40 psi boost to melt all the pistons with a load and no coolant. Consider it cheap insurance!
 
fratzog lover said:
Good info regardless of brand.
Click to expand...
Thats what I got out of it, best truck to buy is a Cummins! LMAO, "this is a beautiful truck, its engine is ****, turbo is ****, injection pump is ****, its $45K and only has 140K but it will blow up tomorrow but at least its not as big a piece of **** as this one...or this one..." He probably gets kickback from local Dodge dealer. Thanks for cheering me up!!! We all got a good laugh...being a Dodge shop...
 
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