Which K member?

I like your lowbuck style 4geardemon. The wood part not so much but I have done worse in my days before having a welder to keep a car on the road.
The Hemi's do take a modified BB K member.
Although it has been modified so extensive you should just consider them completely different from the BB frame.
The biggest problem with the factory BB parts is they are rare. This also makes them more costly and generally only considered or sought out by restorers of the factory big block cars from 67-69. Their also is some small differences within these 3 years.
Not sure if it still applies but I believe they use a rubber motor mount that has been unavailable for many years. I haven't checked into this recently.
The driver side engine mounting bracket only worked on blocks cast with a forward facing boss missing on many big block castings. Other blocks may have the boss but are not machined to accept the bolt needed for the special bracket. Their are guys here that can go into more detail on the factory parts than I can.
I started putting BB in A-bodies before the Schumacher parts became available so I am OK with having to do some fabricating.
That and I just never couId come to terms with paying $150. for engine mounts like is nomally done these days.
The DC frame modification/ spool conversion mentioned earlier worked for me on my first BB swap.
Since then I don't even bother tracking down a small block frame to modify. It would be easier though.
Cheapest and most accurate way I found is to cut the mounts off whatever frame you have and weld on some fabbed up brackets with the car & engine blocked up safely in place.
Have the transmission mount, engine brackets, headers, starter, oil pump and torsion bars already installed to get the proper & level placement with the parts you are using. Clearances can vary from car to car.
This saves you from needing any shims or any clearance problems that can sometimes come up with prefabbed parts.
I prefer the C-body spool engine brackets that usually came with my engine and I would probably source them even if I didn't have them already. They can be modified to solid if desired or work as is. I like to make the driver side engine bracket solid so no limiter is needed or has a rubber mount to fail. Urethane spool inserts are available and I use them on both the passenger side and transmission.
This will transmit more engine vibration thru the chassis than the rubber parts. Not as harsh as completely solid but it does wonders with keeping the clutch linkage precise and helps prevent header contact rattles where they are close.
A couple of short pieces of 2"x3" rectangle tube left over from making subframe connectors can be trimmed into shape for the new frame brackets or use whatever steel you got that is at least 1/8" thick.
Tack weld your homebuilt frame brackets to k-member in at least 3 places or as solid as you can while bolted to engine brackets.
This should be done to prevent welding heat from
pulling bracket out of place. This is important.
Remove the engine for access to do the final welding. Its probably not the easiest way to do the swap but it gives you complete control of how well the fit ends up.
If I didn't weld/fab this myself, my choice would be useing one of Jim's k-members.