A good reason to run braided lines on rear disk. Ouch!

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clinteg

clinteg

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I just recently swapped to Dr. Diff rear disks. They went on without a hitch.....until I started driving the car. Apparently you can't run these with a narrowed rear and also lowered. I found this out the hard way of course but avoided any catastrophe luckily. This was not something I was looking for and just happened to notice it. The brake lines will get pinched and the calipers will hit the frame. It can be fixed but this really sucks. Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone else doing this type of build. You're better off with a brake setup that doesn't have a caliper that is so long. Had it not been for those braided lines, I probably would have lost all brake fluid, then brakes, and wrecked the car. I don't care that the lines cost more now. Worth every single penny.











 
Thanks for posting up these findings.
C
 
Thanks,for the tip... Safety first,and I rarely say that....
 
Whoa, can you route them back and under the pinch point? Man, that's a close one. Then you got to figure your frame clearance...Measure twice cut once. Glad you caught it.
 
The caliper body is actually hitting too so I'll have to raise the car, notch the frame, or re-drill the adapter brackets and try to clock the calipers back.
 
Work for some extra clearance. If you go around a corner, and the springs lean, then you'll need extra clearance.

For line clearance, can you just lengthen the lines and route them back, under the frame, and the forward to the calipers..?? And relocate the tabs on the axle to put the lines lower.
 
If you have not already, check with Cass to see if he has a recommendation. Would also be good to share this with him. Hope you engineer a solution.
 
I noticed you are not using the emergency brake (no cable hooked up). If you don't need them (?) I'm sure there are calipers that will bolt on that do not have all that stuff on them. As suggested above, get a hold of Dr. Dff!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Good reason not to ghetto slam it.
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Gee, how helpful.:rolleyes: Weren't you just saying in another post that we don't all like the same things?

Ride height's perfect. Axle just needs to be a 1/2" wider with more backspace on the rims. That's a bit extreme though, call Cass, maybe he can help you figure out a solution that doesn't involve a longer rear axle and new rims.
 
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whats that caliper off of? Looks like Ford or ? The Eldo calipers dont stick out like that and you can clock them way back towards the rear.
 
Dr. Diff's brakes use a Mustang Cobra spec caliper. The big advantage to his kit is being able to use the standard tapered axle bearings. Normally the calipers wouldn't be anywhere near the frame rails, that rear axle has to be significantly shortened.
 
Yes they are 98-04 or 94-04 Cobra rear disks. Can't recall the exact year range. The axles are 52-1/2 wide IIRC so they are shortened. I don't use a parking brake cable. I'll probably wish someday that I had one when I really need it but I removed it. I think that if I stay at this ride height, I could resolve the line issue by adding longer lines and running them further back. The caliper issue, I'll have to re-drill and clock the adapter bracket, notch the frame, change ride height, or just change to a lower profile brake setup like Wilwoods or something. I'm definitely not going to be changing axles or the rear. If anything I'd shorten them and do a back half lol.
 
72bluNblu said:
Gee, how helpful.:rolleyes: Weren't you just saying in another post that we don't all like the same things?

Ride height's perfect. Axle just needs to be a 1/2" wider with more backspace on the rims. That's a bit extreme though, call Cass, maybe he can help you figure out a solution that doesn't involve a longer rear axle and new rims.
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Yes and I actually like a lowered car tastefully done. I was merely pointing out that it also opens up more cans of worms than just cosmetic.

Are you following me around from thread to thread just to disagree and pick a fight?
 
Time to back-half the car. Don't you have problems scraping the undercarriage while driving the car on the open road? My car's stance is no where near as low and I still scrape stuff every now and then. I don't see how you can even go over a common speed bump without getting hung-up.

Santa Cruz'ing (Large).JPG
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes and I actually like a lowered car tastefully done. I was merely pointing out that it also opens up more cans of worms than just cosmetic.

Are you following me around from thread to thread just to disagree and pick a fight?
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Are you serious? I can't think of a more colossal waste of my time than following you around Rob. And yes, I absolutely disagree with your post in this thread (and others) because it's totally useless and rude. No technical value whatsoever, just an opinion no one asked for. And that's not why I commented in this thread.

I saw this thread because of the reference to braided steel lines, since I run them on my cars. And I posted up because of the Dr Diff rear brake kit, which I've researched heavily and will use on my Duster eventually. So I was interested in the issue that came up, just like I'm interested in seeing how clinteg solves it. And that's why I even saw your post to begin with, not because I'm following you around.

It's a public forum, everyone can see what you post. All you did here was make a snide comment. And yes, I pointed that out because I'm tired of seeing your snide comments about any car that doesn't match your personal tastes regardless of whether you have anything useful to say about it.
 
jbc426 said:
Time to back-half the car. Don't you have problems scraping the undercarriage while driving the car on the open road? My car's stance is no where near as low and I still scrape stuff every now and then. I don't see how you can even go over a common speed bump without getting hung-up.

View attachment 1714956555
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It hit once going up and over an intersection and scraping on the downward compression when I had the shocks set at 0 clicks compression and once in a park going over a sidewalk that was above ground a bit. I've raised it 1/2" and set the compression setting much higher and I haven't had any issues since. If I had to go over a speed bump, it would have to be about 3 inches tall max, if that I would guess.
 
I talked to Cass and he recommended trying to swap the adapter brackets side to side so that the calipers are on the fwd side of the axle instead of the back. If that doesn't work, I'll have to weld and re-drill the holes in the bracket or I'll be notching the frame. This isn't his first time to see this at least and said that those were essentially my options at this point.
 
Could a longer hose help solve the hose interference issue?

Route it more front to rear coming out of the caliper and larger loop it to the frame bracket?

[sarcasm]Next time don't shorten the rear end so much you big dummy!!! :) [/sarcasm]


Nice catch, that could have ended UGLY
 
clinteg said:
I talked to Cass and he recommended trying to swap the adapter brackets side to side so that the calipers are on the fwd side of the axle instead of the back. If that doesn't work, I'll have to weld and re-drill the holes in the bracket or I'll be notching the frame. This isn't his first time to see this at least and said that those were essentially my options at this point.
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Well at least Cass had some options for you, even if they might not work. Looks like swapping them side to side so they're on the front side of the axle would put them closer to the highest part of the arch in the frame, that might buy you enough clearance.

Did he mention what the minimum width of the axle has to be in order to avoid interference like this?
 
A longer line will alleviate that part of the problem. But I still need to get the body to clear so I'll try clocking them forward. Cass didn't mention what width the axle had to be in order to maintain clearance. Mine is 52-1/2 so I'm guessing somewhere around 53 or 54 inches would be minimum width it would need on my car.
 
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