narrowing rear question

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cherokeechief79

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I have an 8-3/4 for my 68 cuda that was originally from an a body and is still the full width.
it is at the guys shop who builds rears now.i would like him to finish building the rear before I finish the car and inboard the springs.
do you think I could just have him narrow it 3 in per side before I actually move the springs in or will I actually have to relocate the springs and take a measurement.
its going to be a while before I get to move them.
 
Ideally all the welding should be done before the housing ends are welded with a mandrel jig to assure straightness. If your not back bracing and only welding perches in the future you'll be OK.
 
yes he is using a setup bar in a dummy center section to weld the new moser ends on so the housing will definitely be straight.
I just want to know if he were to go 3 in per side if it will be fine for inboarding the springs.
I will leave the perches off for now but this way we could order axles and have it all assembled.
 
If you weld the perches on later with lube / lube fumes in the closed housing it can KABOOM.

A pal tried that once, no one hurt but it blew the axle seals out & he had to start over.
 
IMO,

Sell the factory A body rear. Grab a cheaper B,C,E or truck/van rear and shorten it. If you have axles and SBP brakes for the A rear it's worth a bit of cash to someone that wants a factory piece.

Get the wheels and tire you want measure BEFORE you shorten the housing. BTDT and had to put spacers or run a different wheel because backspace wasn't correct.
 
Sell the factory A body rear. Grab a cheaper B,C,E or truck/van rear and shorten it. If you have axles and SBP brakes for the A rear it's worth a bit of cash to someone that wants a factory piece.
Get the wheels and tire you want measure BEFORE you shorten the housing. BTDT and had to put spacers or run a different wheel because backspace wasn't correct.
Yeah starting from a Monaco type rear will pay dividends. When the bearing receivers go on they take up quite a bit of space, so you gotta be pretty accurate in the measuring. Better it is, to move the springs first and obtain the final tires and rims, as previously stated,by member; crackedback.
 
I have an 8-3/4 for my 68 cuda that was originally from an a body and is still the full width.
it is at the guys shop who builds rears now.i would like him to finish building the rear before I finish the car and inboard the springs.
do you think I could just have him narrow it 3 in per side before I actually move the springs in or will I actually have to relocate the springs and take a measurement.
its going to be a while before I get to move them.
The 68 dart I had I moved the springs in & took 3 inches off each side plus mini tubbed it. All depends on what size wheel & tire you want run
 
IMO,

Sell the factory A body rear. Grab a cheaper B,C,E or truck/van rear and shorten it. If you have axles and SBP brakes for the A rear it's worth a bit of cash to someone that wants a factory piece.

Get the wheels and tire you want measure BEFORE you shorten the housing. BTDT and had to put spacers or run a different wheel because backspace wasn't correct.
X2
 
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