Thoughts on Cooling a Stock 383 HP Barracuda/Dart.

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TimS

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Original 383 Barracuda/Dart owners, anyone have an issue with getting your car to run 180 with a 180 thermostat. Mine runs about 190 or so down the highway, 210 sitting in the heat of Summer. My stock 22 inch radiator with shroud has a new core. I've checked all the other possibilities in the cooling system itself.
 
I have a 440 in my 67 Barracuda. It had no problem, but I used a new super cooling core in a larger radiator.
Is yours a 383 or better radiator? I stayed at 190, but I also run fenderwell headers, wich REALLY increase underhood air flow...
 
I'm still using the stock 22" 065 radiator with the original drivetrain. Just wondered if anyone else has had this issue. I personally never liked the small 22" radiator in a big block setup anyhow.
 
Get a good radiator shop to do a flow check and get what you have to base line - Old water pump? then you can build from there.
Don't buy into the aluminum radiator myth. don't forget, the weight of a radiator is a lot to do with the weight of the liquid coolant. beyond that, a dry aluminum radiator is not that much lighter than a dry copper/brass radiator and the both reject heat at nearly the same rate - given current design core design and a fresh un blocked core.
 
I run the factory 68 Radiator and exhaust manifolds. No problems with heat. Yours is a 69, 383 radiator. Make sure the new core is a 3 core like the factory. If you are running the 4 blade fan, put it on the shelf and get a factory flex fan or clutch fan. I run a 160 thermostat without a shroud, but my 383 was honed with torque plates and mains torqued.??
 
I'm running the stock radiator, new core and tubs, in my 67 GTS which doesn't have a shroud which is how it was purchased when new. I found a shroud for it but haven't installed it yet. Running 180 thermostat with flex fan that has the same number of blades as the stock fan. Temperature goes up a little on a hot summer day sitting in traffic or at a light for awhile but still within the lower half of the marked range on the stock temperature gauge. I assume the bottom of the market range on the temperature gauge is 180. While driving down the road it stays down at the bottom of the marked range or just above the bottom. Have you tried running water wetter. I put it in and noticed better cooling.
 
Get a good radiator shop to do a flow check and get what you have to base line - Old water pump? then you can build from there.
Don't buy into the aluminum radiator myth. don't forget, the weight of a radiator is a lot to do with the weight of the liquid coolant. beyond that, a dry aluminum radiator is not that much lighter than a dry copper/brass radiator and the both reject heat at nearly the same rate - given current design core design and a fresh un blocked core.

My radiator has just been flow checked and rodded out. All tubes are open. It is a 3 core with 1/2" tubes. New water pump.[/QUOTE]
 
It's actually fairly common for the temps to be a bit higher that the thermostat is rated at, and 210 ain't bad at all if that's as high as it gets.
 
Keep this in mind, I'm SURE it happened to me. OldmanMopar posted this originally. He says that over the years the FINS can 'crack away" from the TUBES. This creates a rad that may flow all kinds of water without actually radiating much heat. Rad guy told me the stock 273 --'67 rad was "fine." (Clean and flowed well) Would not cool a 360 on the highway. I swapped in an "unknown" slant six rad. Same basic rad, just newer style, IE, old round 67 tank vs newer 73 tank. Same 2 core. No other changes, engine temp DRAMATICALLY dropped.

On a side note, if you Google something like "evaluating radiator cooling performance" you'll find that this IS actually "rocket science!!"
 
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My 71 Demon 440 ran hot with the lower temp thermostats but improved greatly with the 195 degree thermostat. At speed heating can be an aerodynamic issue or lack of the rubber hood seal over the core support allowing air to bypass the radiator.
 
I have a dimple core, they are used in circle track cars . Both mine are 22" no shrouds and can idle in traffic no problem. Stock looking
 
Whatever you do keep that 065 or sell it to me!

I am still looking for a recorable 065!!!

I run the 68 033 from GlenRay's with a flow cooler pump and high flow 185 t-stat. Hard to tell exact temps with factory gauges but I do not burp at all. Your temps are just fine!! It has been hot this year everywhere! You should be happy with that part of your car!
 
The thermostat has nothing to do with how hot the engine runs. Its purpose is to heat the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible and regulate flow.

In other words, a 180 thermostat's design is not to make an engine run 180, nor a 190.......and so on.

190-195 is generally the correct thermostat to run. This allows the engine to get to its operating range quickly to allow for quick warm up and to get the engine out of the range where it will be too cool.

Running an engine too cool will cause premature wear and does not properly get contaminants and moisture out of the oil.

If you're having trouble with an engine running too hot, the problem is in the rest of the cooling system and not the thermostat, unless of course the thermostat is stuck closed.

You perhaps don't have enough radiator, or it may be restricted.

210* sitting in hot weather in traffic is actually a perfect temperature for an engine to run.
 
In the 80's mine ran 230 at idle in traffic in north Fl (Blanding Blvd Mess), Measured with a separate quality gauge. Never boiled over but some times boiled the fuel a tad that caused some vapor lock. Motor pulled apart in 2012 and it looked like brand new after setting 25 years. Like I said 210 is just fine when the temps have been 95-100 in most the country!
 
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I would think I would have enough radiator. Even though it's a 22", all 3 rows are open and all tubes are functioning as they should.
 
It doesn't to me like there is a problem.
 
I would think I would have enough radiator. Even though it's a 22", all 3 rows are open and all tubes are functioning as they should.

Like RRR and other of us have said you are fine! Get the shake out and enjoy!!

But I still want your 065:)
 
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Like RRR and other of us have said you are fine! Get the shake out and enjoy!!

But I still want your 065:)

Sounds like the 065 isn't a real common radiator. I'll move on from this temp concern and leave things as they are. Thanks all for the input.

I definitely would like to get the shake out. I actually have for now by putting a set of slapper bars on and making sure the rubber snubbers make contact with the front hanger spring eye bolt area. With the super stock springs on, she'll shake at ease out or hard launch if I don't have those bars setup like that. Talked to Wayne Brewer again at the Norwalk Monster Mopar. He and his crew are out of ideas on this deal. I know I am. I think I'm going to go ahead and pull the rear gears and see if anything is happening there.
 
When I was having problems with cooling before having the radiator redone I verified how the radiator was working by using an infrared temperature gun. Check the temperature of the radiator when hot from side to side starting at the top working down. Should be relative even across getting cooler as you go down. Doing this test shows how well the radiator is cooling and if there are any large differences/issues. Simple test that shows how the radiator is working.
 
My radiator has just been flow checked and rodded out. All tubes are open. It is a 3 core with 1/2" tubes. New water pump.
[/QUOTE]


Two 1 inch cores will flow more than 3 half inch cores.
You need more coolant flow.

Look at an aftermarket water pump. Dont know what you have but I would see if Milodon makes something. Or Flowkooler, but Ive never used a FK.

I can tell you that its a PITA to get a good radiator any more. Marketing says MORE CORES but engineering says fewer cores with a bigger diameter. When I was young, a long time ago, all the chevy guys had 4 core radiators. Almost all of them ran hot. My stock 2 core 26 inch radiator would out cool them all day long.

My goal is to not use a fan and still control heat. Time will tell if I can.
 
When I was having problems with cooling before having the radiator redone I verified how the radiator was working by using an infrared temperature gun. Check the temperature of the radiator when hot from side to side starting at the top working down. Should be relative even across getting cooler as you go down. Doing this test shows how well the radiator is cooling and if there are any large differences/issues. Simple test that shows how the radiator is working.


I did those tests with the gun before taking the radiator out and to the shop for a rod out. I've driven the car the last few days to work in very humid 90 degree weather and it runs just under 190 on avg highway with 200-205 at idle. Last night I also went from Autolite 85 plugs to a colder AC Delco R43S plug. That made a bit of a difference as well. Baby steps but I'm happy with it now.
 
By the way Tim the 065 were specific to 69 383/440 models.

The 033 were 68 383/426.

They look pretty much the same and have inlet/outlets in the same location and are both 3 core. They just differ in part numbers for the most part with minor stamping differences.
 
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By the way Tim the 065 were specific to 69 383/440 models.

The 033 were 68 383/426.

The look pretty much the same and have inlet/outlets in the same location and are both 3 core. They just differ in part numbers for the most part with minor stamping differences.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like something I should keep to the car for sure. Pretty rare piece these days I bet.
 
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