Prw stainless rockers

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72SwingerJosh

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I ordered a set of pwr stainless rockers and when they arrived they look and feel like junk. Bearings are gritty and machine marks all over them. Very poor quality. I read on this forum where people had good luck and liked them but they must have gone down hill quickly in last couple years because I didn't find any real current posts on them. I am in process of returning them and am thinking just bite the bullet and buy Hugh's for my Indy la-x heads. They say they fit them and are good quality. If anyone else has opinions for other rockers please chime in. Thanks.
 
Couple of the big name builders on here took pictures of those same rockers showing how horrible the roller tip to valve stem angle was, too.
 
The tips where terrible. Could feel every bearing as I rolled it with my finger and the machine marks where cut all over them. My buddy bought the pro comps for $160 off eBay and they looked better and actually felt smoother.
 
I already boxed and sent them. Didn't take pictures was just irritated and wanted them gone.
 
Are the comp rockers any good. I thought I read somewhere on here they don't work well with the la-x Indy heads
 
I have the Hughes rockers on My Eddie headed 340 in my truck, work great. Good quality. I have T&D on my Indy headed stroker in the Demon, awesome quality but cha-ching $$$
 
Whats up with stainless rockers? Are they supposed to be stronger than ductile irons or big AL's? I almost drank the Kool-aid 5-6 years ago when these were all the rage, and pretty cheap.
 
I use a set from Mancini, these are the Harland Sharp bodies without a needle bearing on the shaft. They fit and work good, my geometry was ok with RHS-X Heads. Available in 1.5 and 1.6 Ratio.

Michael
 
Did you get the PRW's from them? If not, who? There are some fakes floating around and guys reboxing junk into PRW boxes. We have some in stock and they look great...guess who Hughes gets their SS from?
 
i dont think PRW is making the SS rockers anymore but i could be wrong. I use them. you MUST correct your geometry anytime you use nonfactory parts.

Call B3 racing engines and talk to him. Dont matter whose rocker you use, you need to correct the geometry. And not with thin shims.

I doubt any serious engine uses an aluminum rocker any more. It was easy to machine and cheap when they started. A steel rocker is much better. And needle bearings on a reciprocationg shaft???? Only chevy would do that and be able to sell it.
 
I tried the proforms and sent those back, those were real super junk. I used 273 rockers since I have the small block. Then I finally saved up enough to get hughes rockers which I am completely happy with. I'm not a big Hughes performance flag waver by any means nor did that I dislike them but they did seem to have the best product for the buck for small block....
 
I would've loved to see pictures. Just doesn't seem right to me since my 1.6 stainless PRW rockers work very well. As with all aftermarket rockers, I'm sure the geometry isn't the best, but the tips sat flush on the valve stems and the wipe pattern on the valve stems was adequate for my combo. I did have to send one back that had a buggered up bushing. Getting a replacement was no problem at all.

To the OP- where did you get them?? Are you sure they weren't different rockers sold in a PRW box?
 
Are the comp rockers any good. I thought I read somewhere on here they don't work well with the la-x Indy heads

I have new LA-X heads and new 1622-16 Comp Ultra Magnum 1.5 shaft rockers that use ball/ball pushrods and the geometry is almost perfect. The roller is about .020" offset to the outer side of the valve and about .040 sweep from 0-.500" of lift and they would still work great at .650" of lift also, with about .060" of sweep. The pushrod angle to adjuster is correct also. This is based on what the B3 racing engines site shows for proper geometry.

cca-1622-16_ml.jpg


I had an AutoZone 30% off discount code I used, they only cost $400.00 this way. I scored some coated Doug's D453 header for $429.00 also that day.
 
There have been Pro Forms sold in PRW boxes floating around. We sell the PRW stainless and roller tip steel and have not had any problems with the parts, our problem is with PRW in general, they are very unprofessional to say the least. PRW rockers have PRW stamped on side by push rod cup. They do want you to clean them with solvent and soak in oil for 30 min. I just tried a set and they are smooth and look fine. For $228 they are a pretty good deal but I would keep the lift under .575" and they dont warranty if you race. Crane, Comp and pretty much everybody else but HS makes their stuff in china now. To get USA you will need to spend $500+. MSD is all china now too. Sign of the times!
 
There have been Pro Forms sold in PRW boxes floating around. We sell the PRW stainless and roller tip steel and have not had any problems with the parts, our problem is with PRW in general, they are very unprofessional to say the least. PRW rockers have PRW stamped on side by push rod cup. They do want you to clean them with solvent and soak in oil for 30 min. I just tried a set and they are smooth and look fine. For $228 they are a pretty good deal but I would keep the lift under .575" and they dont warranty if you race. Crane, Comp and pretty much everybody else but HS makes their stuff in china now. To get USA you will need to spend $500+. MSD is all china now too. Sign of the times!

Where do you find PRW stainless rockers for $228?
 
QUOTE="mopowers, post: 1971350391, member: 2294"]Where do you find PRW stainless rockers for $228?[/QUOTE]

on their web site...for magnum stud rockers not LA shaft rockers
 
I put the pro mag comp rockers on my 367 at the urging of my engine guy. Expensive, but apparently they dont have a habit of going snap. They got good reviews in most everywhere I looked.
 
I've been working on a set of PRW stainless rockers this week getting them clean of debris, deburred from sharp edges and spaced properly above the valves.
One thing is for sure, you cannot / should not, of course install these things straight out of the box without a very close inspection (and cleanup).

I also had one rocker that showed ugly machining/handling on their bearingsurface. But I was able to clean it up.
I lightly polished the rockershafts as the coat of rust-prohibitive oil had left residue stains on the shafts.
Had to shorten the (very soft) rockershaft bolts almost 1/2" as they bottomed out before the holddowns clamped down the rocker shaft.
Polished and dressed the edges of the rocker bearings as they were very sharp.
Deburred both oilholes in each rocker.
Cleaned the adjusters, and deburred and smoothed the cup area.
Cleaned everything throroughly with brakecleaner and air and reoiled all the moving parts.
Had to grind down some of the thick rocker spacer rings slightly to give them some minor side-to-side movement.
Still have my doubts about the adjusters strength and thread engagement in the rockers. Also found different shaped/height lock nuts on the adjusters.
I will most likely replace all the adjusters if I can find better ones here locally.

IMG_4673.jpg
 
Shame you even had to go through all that. They basically stamp em out, and you buy them and do the finish machining for them.


Still have my doubts about the adjusters strength and thread engagement in the rockers.

Hope you dont get the answer catastrophically
 
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