Dry Cell Automotive Batteries - Jay Leno's Garage

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I just recently went with an Odyssey after my pooptima went dead. Time will tell!
 
170 CCA? Seems a bit anemic. Am I missin somethin?
 
The Odyssey 34-PC1500T is what I went with, it has 850 CCA
 
RustyRatRod said:
170 CCA? Seems a bit anemic. Am I missin somethin?
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170CCA wouldn't turn over an 80's 4 cylinder in the middle of autumn up here. I haven't ever bought a battery with under 850CCA. $450 for one? I can get a great battery for a lot cheaper. My scamp runs a battery from 2011 and fires up first shot every time. I'm not sure what I am missing?
 
Lead acid works just fine,maintained properly.Yes, I have had both styles....
 
170cca is adequate for what that battery is designed for, and thats powersports applications like motorcycles, ATVs, etc. Also since most guys started using "mini-starters" has anyone really experimented with different CCA to see whats required?
Personally right now I wouldn't spend the extra cash for a GEL or AGM battery. The lithium iron phosphate market is developing rapidly and will truly be the next thing in auto batteries.
 
I picked mine up for $238.00 at 4wheelparts.com. I believe Summit wanted $296.00 for the same battery.
 
JoeSBP said:
170cca is adequate for what that battery is designed for, and thats powersports applications like motorcycles, ATVs, etc. Also since most guys started using "mini-starters" has anyone really experimented with different CCA to see whats required?
Personally right now I wouldn't spend the extra cash for a GEL or AGM battery. The lithium iron phosphate market is developing rapidly and will truly be the next thing in auto batteries.
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When I moved the battery to the trunk I used my Fluke clamp on meter and the mini starter pulled 180 amps, 360 Magnum.
 
mderoy340 said:
When I moved the battery to the trunk I used my Fluke clamp on meter and the mini starter pulled 180 amps, 360 Magnum.
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I meant using a mini, whats actually needed. At what amps the starting becomes labored and could cause damage
 
JoeSBP said:
170cca is adequate for what that battery is designed for, and thats powersports applications like motorcycles, ATVs, etc. Also since most guys started using "mini-starters" has anyone really experimented with different CCA to see whats required?
Personally right now I wouldn't spend the extra cash for a GEL or AGM battery. The lithium iron phosphate market is developing rapidly and will truly be the next thing in auto batteries.
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That's all well and good, but the battery in question was posted on an automotive forum, not a "powersport, motorcycle or ATV forum."

I think I will just stick with my beloved Motorcraft MAX battery.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's all well and good, but the battery in question was posted on an automotive forum, not a "powersport, motorcycle or ATV forum."

I think I will just stick with my beloved Motorcraft MAX battery.
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Oh no I was just pointing out that although it "may" be adequate for some auto applications, thats not what it's intended for. They have others with higher CCA's for autos I'm sure. Nothing special about it really, just an AGM battery
 
RustyRatRod said:
And what fine print is that sir? Forgive me for bein lazy, but I am not readin a whole dang manual just to find out your point. Care to give us the cliff note version?
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Two big points. The three step charging protocol is much different than what a standard regulator provides. The other is operating temperature, and how that declines battery life. To correctly employ the battery, and achieve the benefits over a standard battery, involves relocation out of the heated engine compartment, a specialized regulator that provides voltage, current, time, energy, and battery temperature in the controls. AGM batteries are not dry, they still have electrolyte in the glass mat, and a valve system to help let gas out but retain moisture. I can go on, but to get more RTFM. Results are going to vary, by where you live, charging and usage. So you can buy an expensive battery, and buy an expensive marine AGM regulator and see if it works. You might find conventional batteries over the same time interval are more economic. Conventional batteries do not provide bragging rights.
 
KitCarlson said:
Two big points. The three step charging protocol is much different than what a standard regulator provides. The other is operating temperature, and how that declines battery life. To correctly employ the battery, and achieve the benefits over a standard battery, involves relocation out of the heated engine compartment, a specialized regulator that provides voltage, current, time, energy, and battery temperature in the controls. AGM batteries are not dry, they still have electrolyte in the glass mat, and a valve system to help let gas out but retain moisture. I can go on, but to get more RTFM. Results are going to vary, by where you live, charging and usage. So you can buy an expensive battery, and buy an expensive marine AGM regulator and see if it works. You might find conventional batteries over the same time interval are more economic. Conventional batteries do not provide bragging rights.
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who the fek drives a muscle car and brags about their battery?! Thats jeep nerd territory!
 
So I can spend more money. To get a battery that needs special charging. And special mounting/attention. Just for what reason? It doesn't start the car any better does it?

I get it. They are advancing technology. Etc etc. But I'll buy into it when it's practical. My car is not built to be a wonderwall of tech. It's built to be practical. It can go to the store and get my milk on a saturday morning. After running 12's at the strip on friday night.

NOW if they made technology that could instantly give my number to all the cute girls that check out my car. That, that I would be interested in.
 
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