Flat tappet to solid roller...

To start with, I'm wondering why you want more duration? More duration = more rpm. By adding duration you will move the power band up, but you're limiting at 6400? It kinda goes against what your build is. I would go the opposite.

With going to solid roller you will pickup some power, even if all cam specs are the same. Simply through the less drag the roller setup creates. You'll also pickup power going solid because you won't have the heavy hydraulic lifters, and the hydraulic action "dampens" some of the lift.

The number one reason (in my books) to go solid roller. Is to get a higher lift with lower duration. IE Wider power band with better low end torque. You can get a roller cam with 230ish duration, but still has .550 or more lift. This creates a wider power band, while still creating great drive-ability and good low end torque and throttle response.

In your instance, since you mention you are limiting to 6400 rpm (A little short for that cam in my opinion, but if you don't wanna spin it then don't). I would go with something in the following area

Duration @50 - 230-240 - Go with a split pattern cam, something like Lunati 40200730 Voodoo Solid Roller Cam - Chrysler 273-360 261/267 - Lunati Power
Lift - .550-.575. This will put you around the area that your heads flow best (although flow testing them higher and seeing where they actually drop off would be nice).
LSA - I would actually go 108. This will bring the power band lower (where you keep it). Yes, it will peak earlier, but whats that matter? You're shifting before that anyways. A LSA of 108 would also make more peak torque. Lower in the band. A tighter LSA will affect idle/drive-ability. But since you are going with less duration, the trade off is there.

Something like that should give you an engine with tighter/raspy throttle response. More torque at lower rpm. Lower power band. With those gears and in a 471" will REALLY fry the tires. I think next in your budget will be some drag radials.

Thanks, now this helps me out a lot!
I see that I had wrong understaning of duration. My idea was to keep the valves open as long as possible to get more air/fuel mix in with my limited lift.
My guess is that flow drops over what the flowchart does not show... Just a guess.
I initially used 6800 limter, perhaps I should go back to it. I put 6400 to keep things live longer. I have forged rods and pistions so perhaps im overreacting.
Until now I had failures every single year this one included. I just recently blew up my converter and rebuilt the whole transmission. This was also a lesson about how important converter is. Getting the right one felt like adding 50hp or more. I did not expect this.

The goal of my changes is to optimize what is in there by putting best matching cam I can get for this combo with minimal changes to everything else. I hope I will end up with new cam, lifters, pushrods and timing set only. If I keep lift under 550 I can also keep my valve springs that I got new last year. I had no problems reving to 6800 with them.

If I wanted to get only power I would go with some forced induction, but parts avilability makes me want to keep it reasonable. The car is pretty quick already, just need more optimized and reliable.

About tires, I was using Hoosier 295/60/15 Quick Time DOT tires, but yes I recently got MT drag radials in almost identical size. Its a 29" tire. Hoosiers have great traction but dont last too long... Hope MT will do better about it but will probably be much heavier. I could not belive how light my wheels were with Hoosiers.

I will dyno the car before changes are made to see whats what after.

The link you gave is for small block cam but I see what you mean.

If I were to do custom grind that has 3000-6500 power band and lift up to 550 how would you spec it out?

I almost got this cam:
21-232-4(Single Bolt) - Xtreme Energy™ Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshafts

Then roller idea came to mind and I decidet to wait it out and ask people that know better.