LD4B installation on a 75 318
Did some more tuning on the car and now have initial timing set at 14 degrees. So far no issues starting it after it's hot so I'll keep it there for now. With mechanical and vacuum advance "all in" I'm up at 60 degrees. No pinging when matting it going up a steep hill but then it's not summer weather anymore around here. I might consider getting the distributor recurved this winter.
Also noticed the transmission wouldn't kickdown when matting it so adjusted the kickdown linkage. The description below I got from another thread so I'm not taking credit for it but it explains what one needs to do. Transmission kickdowns now!
"Here's the correct adjustment procedure. With the engine OFF, lock the gas pedal on the FLOOR with a pedal jack....or someone's foot. Then make sure the carburetor linkage is open ALL the way. After verifying and or correcting that, look at the kickdown linkage. With the throttle still opened ALL the way, the kickdown linkage should be all the way BACK towards the firewall. [I noticed my kickdown linkage still moved back/down about a 1/4". Since my middle linkage rod isn't adjustable where it connects to the pivot point on the throttle bracket, it meant adjusting it down at the transmission]. If it is not, adjust it accordingly. Finally, get under the car and look at the kickdown rod where it goes into the lever on the transmission itself. If you can push the lever on the transmission BACK at ALL, you should adjust it so that it is ALL the way BACK towards the REAR of the car with the throttle still ALL the way on the floor. [Mine wasn't all the way back]. You may need to readjust at the carburetor when finished on the bottom. But when you are done, the transmission lever AT the transmission MUST be ALL the way BACK when the throttle is ALL the way open. [I've included a picture below but it just meant moving the rod with the red arrow on it forward until the pin connected to the end of it (one with the hitch pin) was far enough back so it was in with the lever all the way back under WOT]. Lastly, the kickdown MUST have a return spring on it. Not just on the carburetor, but also on the kickdown linkage itself to pull it ALL the way FORWARD when the gas pedal is released. Failure to have this spring installed can result in very hard shifting going into drive, reverse and second gear."
Since I've played with the timing and idle I'll recheck the idle mixture screws to ensure I'm not running too rich/lean. The 1406 so far is a pretty simple carb to work on (which is what everyone else says).
The intake and carb, plus advancing the timing has really woken up the engine; it's got a lot more giddy-up! My '75 has the fuel pacer option (low budget vacuum gauge which lights up the drivers side top fender mount signal light when manifold vacuum is less than 4). I kept it connected after the upgrade and it's been interesting seeing how often it comes on now.
Did some more tuning on the car and now have initial timing set at 14 degrees. So far no issues starting it after it's hot so I'll keep it there for now. With mechanical and vacuum advance "all in" I'm up at 60 degrees. No pinging when matting it going up a steep hill but then it's not summer weather anymore around here. I might consider getting the distributor recurved this winter.
Also noticed the transmission wouldn't kickdown when matting it so adjusted the kickdown linkage. The description below I got from another thread so I'm not taking credit for it but it explains what one needs to do. Transmission kickdowns now!
"Here's the correct adjustment procedure. With the engine OFF, lock the gas pedal on the FLOOR with a pedal jack....or someone's foot. Then make sure the carburetor linkage is open ALL the way. After verifying and or correcting that, look at the kickdown linkage. With the throttle still opened ALL the way, the kickdown linkage should be all the way BACK towards the firewall. [I noticed my kickdown linkage still moved back/down about a 1/4". Since my middle linkage rod isn't adjustable where it connects to the pivot point on the throttle bracket, it meant adjusting it down at the transmission]. If it is not, adjust it accordingly. Finally, get under the car and look at the kickdown rod where it goes into the lever on the transmission itself. If you can push the lever on the transmission BACK at ALL, you should adjust it so that it is ALL the way BACK towards the REAR of the car with the throttle still ALL the way on the floor. [Mine wasn't all the way back]. You may need to readjust at the carburetor when finished on the bottom. But when you are done, the transmission lever AT the transmission MUST be ALL the way BACK when the throttle is ALL the way open. [I've included a picture below but it just meant moving the rod with the red arrow on it forward until the pin connected to the end of it (one with the hitch pin) was far enough back so it was in with the lever all the way back under WOT]. Lastly, the kickdown MUST have a return spring on it. Not just on the carburetor, but also on the kickdown linkage itself to pull it ALL the way FORWARD when the gas pedal is released. Failure to have this spring installed can result in very hard shifting going into drive, reverse and second gear."
Since I've played with the timing and idle I'll recheck the idle mixture screws to ensure I'm not running too rich/lean. The 1406 so far is a pretty simple carb to work on (which is what everyone else says).
The intake and carb, plus advancing the timing has really woken up the engine; it's got a lot more giddy-up! My '75 has the fuel pacer option (low budget vacuum gauge which lights up the drivers side top fender mount signal light when manifold vacuum is less than 4). I kept it connected after the upgrade and it's been interesting seeing how often it comes on now.
