Hand lapping valves

imho the intake seat is too high and try another valve or a touch of 30* stone.. 3/32 is what I prefer as a seat width, with an interference angle of 1*.
The exhaust seat is difficult to see, but likely needs a touch of 60*..
and perhaps 30.

Lapping may not be your best choice, even tho they held fluid for hours/days.

You sure know how to put a guilt trip on a guy for yrs..

I'm sorry you made me have to choose between familly/grandkids/trophy/championship vs. your heads-waiting weeks for parts that are a day away..

Sorry you couldn't wait a few days , after waiting weeks for parts..

I may never try to help another person again, the guilt trip when I fail has too high an emotional ... whatever..

I can't believe last weekend was my proudest, and this weekend the saddest

.

wish you well..

I resign..
As I read this post I must reply......Dear Brother, How deeply in my bowels I feel what you are saying. My stomach is in knots with empathy. Sometimes I read these threads and go, "No way, no way, will I become involved this grand nonsense."

In years past I use to do a lot of hand lapping, still have my double ended wooden dowel with the two different size suction cups and a few cans of fine or coarse grit paste compound. What you what is a continuous line on the valve and the seat and the more even in width around the valve and the seat the better. This means you have a good seal, stop right there.
In years past I use to .....hint, hint.

the exhaust valves should have a wider seat , to transfer the more heat.
Very true!