Budget D100 360 Suggestions

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mopowers

mopowers

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Just recently picked up a 1979 360 core for my dad to build on the cheap for his 71 D100. He doesn't want to sink a ton of money into it and if I find some good deals on parts, I'd be glad to help him out as well.

1) What would be a good choice for a camshaft? He wants to retain the stock rockers if possible unless I can find a good deal on some adjustables.

2) Would upgrading the stock 4bbl intake to something like a performer or the like be worthwhile?

3) Are there any other cheap upgrades worth doing?

The bottom end look surprisingly good, so he'll likely just do some basic clean-up and re-ring and bearing it before swapping out the stock 318. Thanks for the input.
 
Well, he's retired and on a fixed income, so he really only planned on a re-ring, bearing, and valve job assuming the block and rest of the bottom end checked out ok. I don't mind pitching in where I can with parts if they'd be worth it. I already have electronic ignition stuff, timing set, and a few more odds and ends I'll be able to give him. I'm mainly curious if there's a mild cam that would be an upgrade over stock and still be able to retain the stock rockers.
 
Truck is a 71 D100 long bed. Currently has a 318, 727, 3.23s.

Picture0927161159_1.jpg
 
If I remember correctly that stock 4 barrel intake is HEAVY...but that is its only drawback

My money would go to a good torque converter
(You need to address that anyway)
 
A torque converter isn't on the list right now. Looking for a slightly better than stock cam that'll work with the stock converter.
 
Edelbrock SP2P manifold. This is a narrow runner manifold built solely for low end torque for trucks and towing. I've put them on a few trucks to haul wood and building materials and they work great for this specific application. Most folks don't know what they are, look at the little runners and reject them. That's good for you cause you can pick one up at a swap for $50-75.
 
mopowers said:
Just recently picked up a 1979 360 core for my dad to build on the cheap for his 71 D100. He doesn't want to sink a ton of money into it and if I find some good deals on parts, I'd be glad to help him out as well.

1) What would be a good choice for a camshaft? He wants to retain the stock rockers if possible unless I can find a good deal on some adjustables.

2) Would upgrading the stock 4bbl intake to something like a performer or the like be worthwhile?

3) Are there any other cheap upgrades worth doing?

The bottom end look surprisingly good, so he'll likely just do some basic clean-up and re-ring and bearing it before swapping out the stock 318. Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

Yea, leave the sp2p alone.
Keep the OE intake and hopefully the carb as well.
A cam with a duration of 218@.050 max with the stock torque converter should be used.
Exhaust manifold builds should use a split duration camshaft.Summit racing has inexpensive headers. 2-1/2 exhaust should be used.
Viscous fan should be used.
Chrome box or a FBO or a MSD (last choice.)
Gears! That cam size mentioned above likes up to 3.55's.

If you do any head work, a standard rebuild and back cut valves, multi angle valve job is all you will need.

Cheap roller rockers? Not on my stuff!
 
Sell the LA and get a stone stock 5.9 Magnum. Done.
 
The good deal on adjustable rockers would be 273 rockers. Otherwise, stick with the stock stamped ones.

I suspect your dad won't be going to the strip with this... yes? no?. It woudl hlep to know what your dad/you want out of the engine and its planned use: race? mileage? daily driving?. For the cam, I would go lower on duration to keep what little there is of compression with the stock dished pistons. Somewhere in the 205-210 range tops at .050 lift, and make sure the ICL is 4-6 degrees advanced (may be ground in or may not, depending on the exact cam). Keep the lift limited to around .440-.450" so no valvetrain mods are needed. A wider LSA will typically help with fuel mileage; 112 minimum IMHO for this situation.
 
mopowers said:
A torque converter isn't on the list right now. Looking for a slightly better than stock cam that'll work with the stock converter.
Click to expand...

do some research on this part of the swap
the 318 is internally balanced, while the 360 is externally balanced and this is done on the torque converter

now, to the best of my knowledge there are three ways to deal with this
(not counting the fourth option of building an internally balanced 360 because of your budget limitations)

1: buy a B&M conversion flex plate. this plate has a bite "missing" from it, which removes weight from the opposite side of the converter where the 360 has the weights welded on, making your neutral balance 318 converter balanced like a 360 unit

2: mopar performance offers a weight kit (or they used to). this comes with a template and some metal weight which you weld to the 318 converter, just like they did on the stock 360

3: just get a 360 converter. custom will make optimal use of the rest of your combination but stockers will do the trick aswell (specially if you can find a higher stall one)
 
Thanks for the input guys. He would've gone with a magnum, but I was able to find a 360 for free. The truck is just used to putt around in running errands, morning coffee- that sort of thing. He's not too concerned with gas mileage. I should have mentioned, the truck does already have a set of headers and a decent exhaust system. Thanks again.
 
diymirage said:
do some research on this part of the swap
the 318 is internally balanced, while the 360 is externally balanced and this is done on the torque converter

now, to the best of my knowledge there are three ways to deal with this
(not counting the fourth option of building an internally balanced 360 because of your budget limitations)

1: buy a B&M conversion flex plate. this plate has a bite "missing" from it, which removes weight from the opposite side of the converter where the 360 has the weights welded on, making your neutral balance 318 converter balanced like a 360 unit

2: mopar performance offers a weight kit (or they used to). this comes with a template and some metal weight which you weld to the 318 converter, just like they did on the stock 360

3: just get a 360 converter. custom will make optimal use of the rest of your combination but stockers will do the trick aswell (specially if you can find a higher stall one)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reminder. I was able to find a good deal on the necessary flexplate to retain the stock neutral balance converter.
 
It might be more profitable to look for a used high stall converter...but as long as your aware of what you need, that's half the battle

(I should have a flexplate kicking around for a 360, but I dont think I can get it to you before the end of october)
 
The 360 2bbl cam is a little healthier than a 318 2bbl cam. If you want a mild step up from the 360 2bbl cam, I'd go with the 340 cam.
I actually had a '71 Dodge truck just like yours, only different color. I liked when you opened the hood, the fenders provided "shelves" for tools... LOL.
 
Is there a list out there somewhere of the stock cam spec for mopar small blocks? Where does one pick up a 340 cam? Does Chrysler still sell them?
 
mopowers said:
Is there a list out there somewhere of the stock cam spec for mopar small blocks? Where does one pick up a 340 cam? Does Chrysler still sell them?
Click to expand...
I personally like this cam in 360's that are looking for a bump over stock. This is just a "tab" of a bump over a stock 340 cam, but would love your 360 and headers. Basically idles smooth and in the 360 would have good low end while still offering good pull throughout the rpm band
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452761ae/overview/
 
I found that stock flexplate
it came off a 75 360 with a 727 transmission out of a motor home
(when I got my custom torque converter I needed a different bolt spacing on the flexplate)

I'm sure 15 bucks will cover shipping if you want it BUT bear in mind, this will not help you run a 318 converter, only a 360
 
Thanks for the input, guys. I've got a couple carbs I was thinking about giving him for this project. Do you think this combo would be best with a 1850 or 3310 holley? I'm leaning towards the 600 - 1850 but was curious what you all though.
 
If you go with a larger cam (most of the ones suggested) the 600 will limit the top end. But with a smaller cam, and with your dad just 'putting around', 600 cfm would be fine IMHO. I've run a 350 ft-lb torque engine that would still wind out to 6500 RPM on 600 cfm. (The old Holley 6619 mileage carb.) That small keeps it easier to tune too.
 
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