Swapping pigs

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RBConvert

RBConvert

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This weekend I'm swapping the 3.55 SG from the Dart into the Coronet. Both are 489 cases. The 'Net's 3.23's don't work with the Hughes cam and Dynamic high stall converter. And with the Tremec 5 spd the Dart needs steeper gears so I'm having a shop swap out the 3.23's for a 4.10/4.11 set.

It's my first time removing a pig and popping out axles, but it looks like the PO installed aftermarket axles. There's no threaded adjuster. Can someone weigh in on what I may have? The Dart's pig on the right.

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mderoy340 said:
Those are aftermarket Green axle bearings, no adjustment needed.
Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain
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Thanks so much for that link! It was super informative! I think everyone on this forum should read it, it adds a lot of clarity to the argument of which is better, tapered bearings or green bearings. I now understand why so many people hate them and say they had multiple failures with them, and why others, like myself, have never had a problem with them!
 
The one on the left is a clutch style Spicer SG unit, the one in the right looks to be an Auburn cone style SG, but I've never seen that gear setup on the right!!!
 
Thanks guys. Over the years I've heard of the 'Green' vs. OEM adjuster debate and now I have evidence of both in my garage. The difference has posed another issue though; the Dart diff doesn't have the thrust pin and it's going to need it before I slam it into the Coronet; and the 'Net pin has to come out before installing in the Dart. Plus the U joints are different on each driveshaft. No problem, just swap the pinion yokes. Yeah, the Dart splines are fine and the Coronets are course. The weekend project has spilled over into at least two.
BTW, try and find an 8.75" diff gasket in Sacramento on a Saturday. I knew I was in trouble when the NAPA counter guy asked if it was a 10 or 12 bolt. Of all places, O'Reillys had it, in 24 hours. I know RockAuto, etc. have it but yesterday I still believed the Coronet was going to be buttoned up today.
 
cosgig said:
The one on the right also looks to be the newer style Auburn, not an OE unit!
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The PO of the Dart was a mechanic; the Dart was originally a /6 auto with a 7.25" and he swapped in a 360, Tremec, and 8.75". He did a nice job on the build; it doesn't surprise me that the bearings and diff aren't OEM.
 
RUhaving Fun yet/still?
I guess you have the 2.87 low Tremec? That would make a 9.27 starter gear. Yeah, that's probably a little weak. But the 4.10s would make 11.77; Can you say "jackrabbit"? Yeah, that will be peppy,allrightee.
 
AJ/FormS said:
RUhaving Fun yet/still?
I guess you have the 2.87 low Tremec? That would make a 9.27 starter gear. Yeah, that's probably a little weak. But the 4.10s would make 11.77; Can you say "jackrabbit"? Yeah, that will be peppy,allrightee.
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The Dart has the 3.55's so it's over 10, but it could use a little more pep in it's step, especially in 5th. At 65 mph it's turning less than 2,000 rpm. Rear tires are 245-60/15.
And I decided to swap the Coronet tapered bearings to green and have a shop rebuild the OEM limited slip.
 
Oh I see, you are having a problem at the other end. I ran into that too,once.

I think I got confused with what goes where.

You have to be careful with those adapter crosses. It doesn't seem to take much to snap them. I snapped one with a little 360 manual trans, going into second;BAM!,clunk-alunka-lunka:( I think I was running 3.55s and 295/50-15s, on the street. BFGs no less. 1350s solved my problems.
 
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69_340_GTS said:
Don't swap pinion yokes! You can get adapter U-joints almost anywhere. You just need to measure the driveshaft and measure the yoke, and match up to what you need. U-Joint series identification
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Thanks for the link, it clears things up. While examining the UJ I noticed the inside locks; wondered what I had because I'm used to the more common 1330/1350's. I have the 7290's.
 
RBConvert said:
Thanks for the link, it clears things up. While examining the UJ I noticed the inside locks; wondered what I had because I'm used to the more common 1330/1350's. I have the 7290's.
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AJ/FormS said:
Oh I see, you are having a problem at the other end. I ran into that too,once.

I think I got confused with what goes where.
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I hear you. They're both laying in front of me and I have to stop for a moment and think which one is going where...
 
The ones that usually break are the greasable ones. Seems that the holes drilled thru for the grease and the Zerk fitting weaken them. Get the non-greasable ones or "sealed" ones. They are apparently stronger and will probably last just as long.
 
Yeah I know that stuff is important.
But
Having swapped yokes around maybe 20 times or more,(probably lots more), and replaced leaky pinion-seals even more times,
And never having had an issue; it just makes me wonder.....how lucky am I.
I'd like to think that I just have the touch,lol
 
I took it for granted that if the yoke was replaced then a new crush sleeve would be installed. Since the Power Lok is being rebuilt anyway, a new crush sleeve is in order. I'm having the yoke replaced so that the 7290 UJ is retained, rather than go with the hybrid 7260/7290. I know I'm thinking worse case scenario, but if the UJ goes out in some remote area there's a better chance of sourcing an OEM size.
 
That crush sleeve is incredibly stiff. It takes a long bar to torque that nut.I don't think you could collapse it in your driveway,on jack stands. There is so much wind-up in the springs I doubt you could get enough travel with a long bar. I finally built a yoke anchor tool. On a lift it is pretty easy now.
 
AJ/FormS said:
That crush sleeve is incredibly stiff. It takes a long bar to torque that nut.I don't think you could collapse it in your driveway,on jack stands. There is so much wind-up in the springs I doubt you could get enough travel with a long bar. I finally built a yoke anchor tool. On a lift it is pretty easy now.
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To your point, it took a 4' cheater bar slipped over the 3' breaker bar to bust it loose. I know it gets harder and harder to bust a nut as we get older, but this was ridiculous.
 
Hyup, those nuts just keep getting harder and harder to crank off... The worst is laying on your back there, looking up and wondering how to approach that pig. When you finally get a handle on it, and start tugging on it, you suddenly realize that you're getting too old for this, and call over a helper. So now the two of you are pushing and pulling, and finally somebody comes up with an idea....I thought we had an air tool for that?
 
I wanted to follow up on the diff swap. Had the SG from the Coronet rebuilt while it was out - good thing too because the clutches were worn down and a spider gear lost a tooth - found it at the bottom of the housing. The Dart loves the 4.11's; it's a totally different driving experience. And with the Tremec it still only pulls 2100 rpm at 65.
Since owning the car it's had a shimmy above 85 mph; while the pig was out I had the driveshaft balanced. The 'shaft came with the Tremec and had NEVER been balanced; unbelievable. Took two weights to balance it out. Now the car tracks smooth at 100.

And the 3.55's from the Dart really woke up the Coronet. Also replaced the axle bearings with the greens.
The only issue seems to be the EFI - car idles at 1000 vs. 800 target. Only driven it about 100 miles so it might still be learning the steeper gears. I'll give it some more miles and if it doesn't settle down just reboot the ECU.

If anyone needs a diff rebuild in the Sacto area, i recommend Jeff at JAWS. Great guy to deal with and he knows his Mopars.

Since getting the Dart back on the road I like the look of the rear steelies without the dog dish caps; going to run it this way for a while.

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That's interesting you had a good experience with JAWS. There's a guy here that had a horrible experience with them. Based on his experience, I'd never use their services. Glad it turned out for you though. That 68 Dart is nice! Not too many nice 68 sedans around.
 
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