First A-833 rebuild, what to look for?

-The clutch teeth can be repointed with a die-grinder,as well as the matching teeth in the sliders.The coast side of the clutch teeth often needs to be back-cut to prevent them from jumping out of gear during deceleration. Occasionally the drive sides as well.
-The clutch cones need to be deglazed, and the brass needs to grab those cones with authority, with just light pressure.After grabbing and locking,they should sit high off the bottom;Ima guessing .060 or so.If they sit too far down, they will stop working when they get hot cuz the are bottoming out. Put the best one on 2nd cuz that one wears out first.And the lowest sitting one on the input, cuz that one sees the least work. If you find one that works less aggressively, put it on first,cuz if first is too aggressive, putting it into gear while stopped can be a pita.If you need 4 new ones, buy two sets, cuz there may not be 4 good working ones in every pkg. If one has been dropped or mishandled,and the circle get distorted, it will not work. This is very hard to correct.
-The clusterpin is often worn pretty good. They can be flipped, reindexed,and reused.
-As to the slider being loose on the hub, I think that is a non-issue. But it should slide freely back and forth. Often the hubs need to be dressed with a die-grinder to make this happen smoothly.You must try your hardest to make it stick, and then fix what needs fixing so it doesn't stick anymore. I use a dry-graphite spray to help me find the sticking points.
-The line on the stump of the input, does not appear to me to be a wear line, but rather an identifier. I have seen those before and interpreted them as belonging there.It is hard to judge from this side of the screen.
-If I told you I have over 150,000 miles,(Probably over 200,000 miles),on the guts in one of my boxs,would you hate me? Those gears are mostly salvageable multiple times.In fact, since 1972 or so, I have never replaced one,due to wear. Brass yes, gears no