Re-using ball joints?

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BigBlockMopar28

BigBlockMopar28

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How can I inspect my ball joints to see if they are re usable? Normally I would just buy new ones but it looks like ball joints from NAPA or any other parts store will run me 10 a piece for lowers, and 26 a piece for uppers. My current suspension has surface rust but nothing deep. Thanks
 
IMO, I would not reuse ball joints ever. They are inexpensive enough and at under a $100 for all four,..get new ones. I would remove the control arms take care of the surface rust, paint them and install the new joints and call it a day. You should also replace the control arm bushing while they're out. They are also inexpensive.
 
I'm with others here - less than $75 -- what is piece of mind worth to ya? ... suck it up butter-cup... go buy the new ones!
 
New ball joints are made in China garbage. It's a roll of the dice on if they last or not. Lots of threads here explaining this, even MOOG moved their production overseas years ago. Sadly we don't have any good ball joint options.

I'd inspect and re-use them if they're good if I were you.
 
We only use Moog at our shop and never had an issue. Moog has moved yes, but are still better than the other crap out there. I also like TRW. I'm sorry but, I disagree with reusing the old ones. Don't do it.
 
I've sold numerous brake and suspension parts on this forum, throughout the years, without anyone ever getting back to me, with complaints in reusing upper control arms, that have nice and tight, good ball joints still installed in them.
What problem is there in using something that probably has a few thousand miles to them, that were replaced, before the vehicle got smashed, and turned up in a Pick-N-Pull wrecking yard.
You put used engines, and transmissions, and drive shafts, with the old universal joints still in them, so whats the difference if you put an excellent control arm back in service with, ball joints in them that are in good condition.
Some of you guys out there, make mountains out of mole hills.
You aren't building the space shuttle, or the Martain rover.
 
Like Jim, I would also reuse good ball joints. I have some around here that I kept just for that reason. They are very tight, will get fresh grease, and should be good for a lot of miles.
 
I see no issue with reusing your old ball joints. Too replace them just because is a waste of money,time and effort. If you took your car to a garage for an inspection and they suggested replacement of the ball joints for peace of mind(even when they are still good) you would call that up selling and dishonest. If you choose to replace that is your decision. However in spec or out its one of the two.
 
hemi71x said:
I've sold numerous brake and suspension parts on this forum, throughout the years, without anyone ever getting back to me, with complaints in reusing upper control arms, that have nice and tight, good ball joints still installed in them.
What problem is there in using something that probably has a few thousand miles to them, that were replaced, before the vehicle got smashed, and turned up in a Pick-N-Pull wrecking yard.
You put used engines, and transmissions, and drive shafts, with the old universal joints still in them, so whats the difference if you put an excellent control arm back in service with, ball joints in them that are in good condition.
Some of you guys out there, make mountains out of mole hills.
You aren't building the space shuttle, or the Martain rover.
Click to expand...

Jim Lusk said:
Like Jim, I would also reuse good ball joints. I have some around here that I kept just for that reason. They are very tight, will get fresh grease, and should be good for a lot of miles.
Click to expand...

dustrr said:
I see no issue with reusing your old ball joints. Too replace them just because is a waste of money,time and effort. If you took your car to a garage for an inspection and they suggested replacement of the ball joints for peace of mind(even when they are still good) you would call that up selling and dishonest. If you choose to replace that is your decision. However in spec or out its one of the two.
Click to expand...
some good points made here - but someone needs to answer the OP's question - How can I inspect my ball joints to see if they are re usable?
 
From 73 FSM

Upper ball joint Inspection
(1) Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety
floor stands under the control arms, as far outboard
as possible.
(2) Lower the front end until the weight of the
vehicle is on the floor stands.
(3) Check for looseness at the ball joint by lifting
the wheel assembly. If any looseness is noted, the
joint should be replaced.

Lower ball joint inspection.
(1) Raise the front of vehicle and install safety
floor stands under both lower control arms as far
outboard as possible. The upper control arms must
not contact the rubber rebound bumpers.
(2) With the weight of vehicle on the control arm,
install dial indicator and clamp assembly to lower
control arm (Fig. 27).
(3) Position dial indicator plunger tip against ball
joint housing assembly and zero dial indicator.
(4) Measure axial travel of the ball joint housing
arm with respect to the ball joint stud, by raising and
lowering the wheel using a pry bar under the center
of the tire.
(5) If during measurement you find the axial
travel of the housing arm is .070 inches or more,
relative to the ball joint stud, the ball joint should be
replaced.

I agree some of the new stuff is junk and use serviceable old ones if I can.
 
30K is getting up there. China parts can be done as early as the next day, but typically may "go" a year or say 10,000 miles, being loose most of the way. The early Moogs and TRWs could go 30,000, and only be a little loose yet. Then again mine are currently pushing 125,000 miles; but they've been loose for quite a "while",lol.
I have never seen a Chrysler or an aftermarket Chrysler-type BJ actually fall apart.And the lowers have a very generous wear allowance.
I have seen GM pick-up BJs fall apart and that gets expensive.
 
you may be putting inferior parts in as replacements...if the uppers are tight
i don't know why you would change them.The lowers can be quite sloppy and
still pass specs because the weight of the vehicle is on them and will hold the sloppy mating surfaces tight..but i would change loose or sloppy ones.
 
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