Newby to nitrous fuel system and setup

we need to pedal a bit here, as you have some very mindful ideas, mixed with some potentially disastrous ones. The nitrous learning curve is very steep. The reason you find these kits used on craigslist for $150 constantly, is everyone buys them up, and then usually scares themselves out of using it after reading how fast they can wind up in boom town.

here we go...

intake plane is irrelevant for what you're doing. keep what you have.

to sum up the fuel system briefly.I see alot of varying ideas kind of all over the place. trying to avoid the cost of an aeromotive pump but installing a completely secondary fuel system and mini fuel cell...bit unrealistic. i would never trust a black or blue to power the engine and a plate either . if you dont want a cell or a sump, you need to go with the in tank unit. Then we run that up to the engine bay with NEW lines, and we split it out of the regulator to the carb and plate.
2 complete systems is a bit unrealistic, and the efi comparison is erroneous. pumps are rated by psi and flow rate...and most are regulated down. you don't put an "efi" pump on a carbed vehicle just to gain flow. the aeromotive in tank can simply operate as either pending what regulator we use. its your best choice in my opinion.

the other safety equipment is obviously wise, but no techs are going to look for a blow tube on a street car.

your microswitch idea is fine. your FP kill switch needs to be wired into the nitrous system. as a killed fuel pump with nitrous still flowing =lean and holes in pistons

call hughes and ask them if they think the converter will live. thats all there is to it. i have blown up converters with no AB plates and 100 shots...hughes may tell you its ok, they may tell you its not recommended for ANY no2.

stock trans is probably going to live about a summer. everyone thinks of HP when they talk NO2, but what kills stock parts is the torque. NO2 is instant torque, and it comes on hard.

you are running alot of timing...but if this is a twice of summer kind of experiment, i'd probably just crank the timing down by hand. you'll have alot of money in a controller for something you want to mess with every once in a while.

$150 for a complete used system isn't bad assuming its complete. just test the solenoids and switches first...pressurize the hose to check for leaks. etc.

Thats all i got for ya this round.