engine/oil temp

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70wayfarer

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ok, combo is a 410 with S475 turbo, 727. just had a street tune on the efi done so to get miles on her before hitting the dyno. block is 2/3rd filled. motor has 8 qrt pan remote filter and large oil cooler.
went for a drive last night after work and engine temp was all good at 180* but the oil temp was getting up to 200*. oil psi was getting down to 15-20 at idle 60 psi on road. how relative is oil temp to water temp or vise versa. i've never monitored oil temp before, but thought it would be a good idea to do so with the block fill. oil temp sender is in the pan and the cooler is behind the headlight basically. not much room up front with large ic.
maybe need to look at getting oil cooler into clean air.
 
Depends on the oil. You ain't hot enough to make me worry.

If the hot idle pressure gets much lower, run one grade heavier oil.
 
Depends on the oil. You ain't hot enough to make me worry.

If the hot idle pressure gets much lower, run one grade heavier oil.
i'm using 10w-30. running a hughes hyd roller cam and lifters. they say to use that weight oil. i contacted them to ask how important it is to use that weight and they said that it's not that important but i shouldn't use a 15-40 or a 20-50, so that only leaves 10-40. they didn't say why to use those weights only. before going roller i always used 20-50.
 
Hi, i see around 260°F oil temp in my daily drivers regularely, so temperature wise it should be no problem for the oil. Engine oil is always getting hotter than the coolant. If you are concerned about the oil pressure then you could change the weight as the other guys said.

Btw: i really like your build...pretty interested in dyno / track numbers ;-)

Michael
 
Hi, i see around 260°F oil temp in my daily drivers regularely, so temperature wise it should be no problem for the oil. Engine oil is always getting hotter than the coolant. If you are concerned about the oil pressure then you could change the weight as the other guys said.

Btw: i really like your build...pretty interested in dyno / track numbers ;-)

Michael
 
I wouldn't worry about that oil temperature - my DD runs at 250 degrees as well. My 04 Jeep Rubicon has never seen anything above 210 but is is not driven at highway speeds for any distance or time and that is where my DD hits the 250 mark.
 
You want your oil to be 200~220'F as that is the rated temp for its operating viscosity which is the second number in the oil spec - ie 20W-50.

The engine builders would have specified a 10W-XX oil to protect things during startup. The lower first number will let you quickly build oil pressure and get oil flowing where it needs to much faster than a traditional 20W-XX type oil.

I would run a 10W-40 or 10W-50 if you are concerned about the oil pressure when warm, but your temps seem fine.

Cheers - boingk
 
Higher oil temps than coolant is common; the oil is exposed to the pistons which run hotter than the water jacket; the coolant is not. With the partially filled block, then I'd not be surprised for the pistons to be a bit hotter yet; there is just less heat transfer area backed up by the water jacket. And with the turbo having oil flowing through it, that is another very good source for oil heating.

OP, if you switch to a synthetic (after a good long break-in), you can be guaranteed to see less oil pressure variation cold to hot. It is the nature of full synthetics to have more stable viscosity; this is shown in the oil specs as an item called viscosity index. So that is another option for you.

BTW, oil temp being maintained at 200-220F due it to being measured there for viscosity has nothing to do with max or optimum oil temps. 100C is just a long time standard oil viscosity measurement temp, nothing more. Max oil temps have to do with oil oxidation, and any effects on additives like viscosity improvers which do indeed tend to break down under high temps. But synthetic oils do not need viscosity improvers.. .hence one reason for less breakdown of synthetics.
 
thanks guys....like i mentioned i've never monitored oil temp before so wasn't sure what to expect temp wise. i will look at a 10w-50 oil. cooler has a fan so will look at using the ecu to turn it on.
couldn't get a answer out of hughes as to why 10w-30 was recommended.

cheers
 
thanks guys....like i mentioned i've never monitored oil temp before so wasn't sure what to expect temp wise. i will look at a 10w-50 oil. cooler has a fan so will look at using the ecu to turn it on.
couldn't get a answer out of hughes as to why 10w-30 was recommended.

cheers


Years ago, Castrol made the only 10w50 at that time (1981-1982) and it was stupidly more expensive at that time. I always used it, without issue. Then one day, it was gone. I figured it was a slow mover so Castrol just stopped doing it. What I found out later was that at that time, the Viscosity Index Improvers just weren't good enough to use a 10 grade oil and make it a 50 at operating temp. There were issues with the additive package basically coming apart and then you had a real issue. I never had that problem with that oil, but I have seen an oil come apart. It usually happens when using a group IV base oil and an alcohol based fuel.



Anyway, if I were going to go with that much spread between winter grade and operating temp grade, it would be a top quality synthetic. I actually have seen a 10w60 but I would think it is very application specific.
Do some research before you buy. When temps get below 32*F you are in the 20 winter grade oils. IIRC below 20*F and you would be at 15 winter grade oils. I have no idea why Hughes thinks a 20 winter grade is to heavy. It would be if the car sits outside and ambient goes below 15*F.
 
This is simple. you want oil to get hot enough to boil any captured moisture out. So, 212*F and up to around 230 or so is fine.
 
thanks guys....like i mentioned i've never monitored oil temp before so wasn't sure what to expect temp wise. i will look at a 10w-50 oil. cooler has a fan so will look at using the ecu to turn it on.
couldn't get a answer out of hughes as to why 10w-30 was recommended.

cheers
ONLY if it is a synthetic; for a non-synthetic it is the wrong solution! You are looking for trouble in a hot engine with a super wide range viscosity non-synthetic oil; as YR referred to, there are viscosity improvers added into wide viscosity standard oils, that are absolutely needed to make this wide range in a non-synthetic. Viscosity improvers are a long time KNOWN problem when temps get up; they break down and gum things up. Sticking piston rings became a very common problem when large amounts of VI's were added; this was becoming well known in the 1970's by the oil and engine manufacturers.
 
ONLY if it is a synthetic; for a non-synthetic it is the wrong solution! You are looking for trouble in a hot engine with a super wide range viscosity non-synthetic oil; as YR referred to, there are viscosity improvers added into wide viscosity standard oils, that are absolutely needed to make this wide range in a non-synthetic. Viscosity improvers are a long time KNOWN problem when temps get up; they break down and gum things up. Sticking piston rings became a very common problem when large amounts of VI's were added; this was becoming well known in the 1970's by the oil and engine manufacturers.

oils ain't oils .....ok, been reading up on oil viscosity etc and starting to see the bigger picture now. went for a longer drive this today and oil temp was steady around 210 220, oil psi and water temp all good.
on the other side of the coin i'm not liking the hyd roller lifters, very noisy. my first choice was solid flat tappet cam and lifters and got talked into the roller set up.
 
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