340 oil pan question

rumblefish360 said
Dadodgekid, good work. I now see where your at. Keep up the good work... and Azz beatings! This coming comment is also addressed to YR.

"Oil control IS power!"

And yes YR, I have been to his site and spoke with him. I also agree that any serious driver looking for power and your E.T. Mentioned (seems like as good as a starting point as any and a good point it is,) should use what ever means at there disposal and as there wallet allows.

Also a note to others reading that might not have occurred to you. As the crank stroke gets longer, the speed of the rods are picking up speed. This means more wind. (Windage) The "wind" created can actually cause the oil to go
Up the pan sides, hitting the crank, which slows the crank down costing power. Keep in mind you have a lot of oil coming down from the valley on top of this.
The oil takes a beating and lives a shorter life while costing you power. The oil gets whipped. And if bad enough, it will foam!
IF and when you can;
"Control your oil!"

P.S. A deep pan and a oil cooler is also helpful in longer useable oil life.

All true.

The reason I didn't push the HP gain from crank scrapers is for two reasons.

1). There are too many variables, such as stroke length, RPM, crankcase volume, crankcase pressure (either positive or negative) and even the rods. An aluminum rod, because of its bulk, creates a different windage pattern than its more compact steel counterpart.
B). I've never had the chance to actually dyno in an A-B-A test to verify results.

Other than that, I concur. And Kevin Johnson is a walking library. It's like a free education over the phone.

Edit: I failed to mention a skirted block, such as a BBM, the venerable FE dorf and the LS platforms affect the effectiveness of the crank scraper. They still do work, they are just less effective with a skirted block.