4 Link/Back Half

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440dartsport

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I've gotten to the point that the Mopar SS springs have about reached there limit so I'm going to back half and 4 link the Dart this winter. I have talked to Alston Chassis and also S&W Racecars. So far I'm leaning torwards a 26" frame rail width S&W kit but was interested to hear what experience you guys have with any other chassis places.
 
Well, I'm a big Alston fan. I grew up as a teen hanging at Chris' first shop down on the Peninsula. Now that I live in Sac, he's in my backyard (or vice versa). I'm running a full custom Alston chassis in my 35 Ply coupe.
 
I like Bob's and twayne24365 thinking on this one......sometimes you go two steps forward ...only to go three steps back. IMHO, the ladders are the logical next step.
 
I appreciate the opinions guys but I'd like to run a little bigger tire so a back half is needed. And the car is still driven on the street some so the Ladder Bars will bind up.
 
I appreciate the opinions guys but I'd like to run a little bigger tire so a back half is needed. And the car is still driven on the street some so the Ladder Bars will bind up.


And a 4 bar won't?
 
I've got S&W L/Bs and an Alston 12pt cage in my 66 Dart. Both make very good products. I would make sure to get double adjustable LBs though. Makes adjustment a lot easier. What length LBs are you going with?
 
Go with the 4 link and never look back. The ladder bar was obsolete in 1982. It's limited adjustability, short, high instant centers make it a tire beater.


Today's engines make so much more power, and you have to deal with that. You do that with long, low IC's. My last race car was 104 inches out and 6 inches up and I still had to move a bit of weight.

Buy the very best double adjustable shock you can find. The Viking stuff is very good for the money. If it's not double adjustable, it's a waste of time.

You also need to lay out your suspension. This is outlined in several books...Chris Alstons Chassis Works and Dave Morgan's Doorslammers book. Bickel has good books on the stuff. You MUST know, exactly what every hole does, as far as how far out the IC is, and how high or low it is compared to the CG it is. This is mandatory. When I bought my first 4 link, the standard was the IC should be 1/2 the wheel base, and cam high, which is utterly stupid. Might as well use a ladder bar. Unless that is what your engine/chassis/converter or clutch wants, which I highly doubt. The bottom bar must (as a starting point) intersect the lower ball joint. Don't make the bottom bar level. Even Morgan had to admit he was wrong on that. Learn how to tune the shocks, as an IC move is a massive adjustment. Shocks should be double adjustable on both ends.


Yes there are guys going fast on ladder bars. There are also guys going low 8's and quicker on Cal Tracs and leafs. There is no reason to do that, unless rules dictate it.


One last thing...hen I bought my first 4 link, every single manufacturer I called told me to keep the car a ladder bar. All of them. Then I called the last one I could find. It was Zeeker chassis. The guy who answered the phone was none other than Dave Morgan, who later wrote the book and did seminars all over the country. When I got off the phone I ordered my 4 link, and never looked back. He was the only guy telling me to do it, but he backed it up with all the reasons why I shouldn't do it, and the one or two reasons I should.


Like Brian "Chucky" Davis says, you can think of a million reasons NOT to do something. It only takes one to do it.

Do it!

And keep us posted.
 
I've gotten to the point that the Mopar SS springs have about reached there limit so I'm going to back half and 4 link the Dart this winter. I have talked to Alston Chassis and also S&W Racecars. So far I'm leaning torwards a 26" frame rail width S&W kit but was interested to hear what experience you guys have with any other chassis places.
I have a ladder bar backhalf frame I want to sell. Send me a PM if interested
Tom
 
The 4-bar is great IF you prefer to spend the money to back half the car, take time to understand how it works and how to tune it. Ladder bars are a less expensive, more simple, but STILL very effective way to plant the rear tires.

your car, your money, your call....best of luck with whichever way you decide.
 
I appreciate the info on everything. I don't mind spending the money on the backhalf and it will be 4 linked for sure. I have no doubt that Ladder Bars work but i'm convinced that 4 link is the way to go. The car is just shy of 1,000hp now and may be stepping up in the near future.
 
Oh hell yes you need a 4 link. 1000 HP needs a 4 link, although you will find guys who do it with a ladder bar.

Good call on the 4 link.
 
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