strange timing issue

It matters not a bit where you clock the dizzy driveshaft, when you put the light on it to reset the timing you will have to rotate the dizzy body back into the same relationship, to get the timing back. The problem with that is, that,you run out of room for the Vcan, or out of room on the adjustment slots.
The only ways to re-phase the rotor to get it under a tower, is to re-clock the reluctor, or to relocate the rotor tip,or to re-anchor the cap, or to alter the timing plate's parking position with the vcan arm.Then whatever tower the rotor ends up under,with the #1 piston between TDC and about 15* advanced, will be the new #1 wire,going to the #1 plug.
I figured this out very very early in my career, when I ran into a teener with a jumped timing chain. I had that dizzy in and out about 6 times,re-clocking that stupid oil-pump drive, and it made absolutely no difference, except the Vcan moved to a new location; and eventually it either ran out of room at the firewall, or it ran out of room hitting the coil. Since the car was in an unheated garage and it was in late December, this was a very frustrating experience for me. I was in my early 20s,22 maybe.

Going back to your first post, if it runs that way, does not crossfire and does not overadvance under power, then forget about where the rotor is. The rotor starts moving as soon as the timing changes, and will be in a new position with every degree change in timing,until the timing is all-in; then the rotor quits moving. The timing plate moves when the vacuum advance can starts doing it's thing, and stops when it's contribution is all in. There is a continual dance going on under that cap. If it doesn't fire to the wrong tower, which you will know the second it happens,all is good.