Hotwire Wiring questions

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Riddler

Project EH-Body
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Finally broke down and purchased a wiring harness and PCM. Reading over the instructions and found alot of wiring I've already completed in my American Autowire harness. I've got a few questions...

For the wires down below... Are they needed to run the car or can I run the fuel pump using the American autowire harness?

Open Wires (wires vary by harness options)

a. Red – 12 Volt Hot at all times. (direct to battery) - OK
b. Pink – 12 Volt Run and start. (ignition key on position) - OK
c. Yellow – Ignition start. (ignition key cranking position only) You must use the included starter solenoid wiring for the engine to start properly. (Mopar muscle cars: You will need to use a momentary push-button starter switch with this wire on one post and 12v on the other post, the dual ignition circuit of a late 60’s to early 70’s Mopars will not work with the Hemi system) - Is there a work around? I really don't want to use a push to start button and a key. I'd rather just use the key.
d. Blue – Brake light output to rear brake lights. - Needed? Why
e. Purple – Backup lamp output to rear backup lamps. - Needed? Why
f. Orange – Overdrive off Switch to momentary ground. (optional, automatic only) - N/A
g. Blue/White – A/C compressor clutch. (12 volts to activate compressor) - OK
h. Black – Clutch safety ground. (manual trans) This must be grounded in when the clutch is pushed in or in Park/Neutral on a non-electronic transmission. - OK
i. Green – Speedometer output to gauge. - OK, but can I use the output from the Viper T56?
j. Grey/Black – Oil Press Gauge (open on both ends for you to hook up your own sending unit) - OK
k. Tan/Black – Engine Temp Gauge (open on both ends for you to hook up your own sending unit) - OK

I guess what I'm asking is why does the engine harness have controls for some non-engine related items? OR does the PCM need the input from these items?

Thanks,

Riddler
 
These are great questions. I'm also running a Hotwire harness for the 6.4L engine management and NAG1 trans.

C) I actually wanted to run the factory push button ignition switch. Chris at Hotwire said that I could not use it because of the sensor system needed (factory key). He said to use a universal key switch.

D) I believe this wire is for the sensor on on the factory brake pedal. You do need this for the NAG1.

E) Possibly a reverse sensor. Again, I think this is a NAG1 thing.

I) I'm running an Autometer GPS speedo. I hope I don't need it.

The instructions suck for my harness but Chris has been helpful an responsive.
 
I'm wondering if, or when American Witing or Hotwire will just offer the wiring complete to run the Gen lll motor in our A-Body cars? They have the wiring for just about everything else.
 
d. Blue – Brake light output to rear brake lights. - Needed? Why
e. Purple – Backup lamp output to rear backup lamps. - Needed? Why

I believe these are for automatic swaps.

i. Green – Speedometer output to gauge. - OK, but can I use the output from the Viper T56?

Yes, if you are using a compatible (5v electronic signal) speedometer.

That didnt work like I thought it would. Expand the quote to see where I made comments.

It would be nice if they included some tips for the installation. Its all about figuring out what the Hotwire harness is controlling and what the vehicle harness is controlling.
 
c. Yellow – Ignition start. (ignition key cranking position only) You must use the included starter solenoid wiring for the engine to start properly. (Mopar muscle cars: You will need to use a momentary push-button starter switch with this wire on one post and 12v on the other post, the dual ignition circuit of a late 60’s to early 70’s Mopars will not work with the Hemi system) - Is there a work around? I really don't want to use a push to start button and a key. I'd rather just use the key.

You can try to wire it with the key and see if it works. Some ignition switches dont break contact between start and run. Be aware MOST do, thats why he says to use the push button. That momentary break in the power circuit will trip the ASD relay and you'll have a no start issue. I got lucky with my switch and it works. Some guys have just wired up the start and run circuits together and had success that way with the switch. I am running off memory on that last part- you might want to double check on that.
 
If I remember right, the Gas Monkeys wired in a timed relay that kept the run/start circuits tied together momentarily to get that raggedy Dart with the Hellcat motor to start.
 
Which engine are you running? I can tell you how I wired my 5.9 Magnum, but nothing about the Gen 3.
 
OK I just verified my harness. I don't have:
d. Blue – Brake light output to rear brake lights. - Needed? Why
e. Purple – Backup lamp output to rear backup lamps. - Needed? Why
f. Orange – Overdrive off Switch to momentary ground. (optional, automatic only) - N/A

I'm also removing these as there in my body harness from American Autowire:
j. Grey/Black – Oil Press Gauge (open on both ends for you to hook up your own sending unit) - OK
k. Tan/Black – Engine Temp Gauge (open on both ends for you to hook up your own sending unit) - OK


That just leaves:
a. Red – 12 Volt Hot at all times. (direct to battery) - OK - Running this to a battery source.
b. Pink – 12 Volt Run and start. (ignition key on position) - OK
c. Yellow – Ignition start. (ignition key cranking position only) You must use the included starter solenoid wiring for the engine to start properly. (Mopar muscle cars: You will need to use a momentary push-button starter switch with this wire on one post and 12v on the other post, the dual ignition circuit of a late 60’s to early 70’s Mopars will not work with the Hemi system) - Is there a work around? I really don't want to use a push to start button and a key. I'd rather just use the key.
g. Blue/White – A/C compressor clutch. (12 volts to activate compressor) - OK, easy enough.
h. Black – Clutch safety ground. (manual trans) This must be grounded in when the clutch is pushed in or in Park/Neutral on a non-electronic transmission. - OK
i. Green – Speedometer output to gauge. - OK, but can I use the output from the Viper T56? I believe the T56 output might be 5v as I had to install a converter. NO big deal, I'll use whatever one works best.

Do the Pink and Yellow wires get attached to the column wiring? I guess I'm confused as my American Autowire harness has an ignition wire and alternator wire. Figures the last few wires are confusing me.

Riddler
 
Do the Pink and Yellow wires get attached to the column wiring? I guess I'm confused as my American Autowire harness has an ignition wire and alternator wire. Figures the last few wires are confusing me.

If memory serves, I ran my PINK to the hot side of the old ballast resistor connecter (since that is no longer used),

and the RED I ran out to my starter power point. (since the starter solonoid is no longer used I just used a power distribution point in its place.)
 
Those points will be a problem for me since I didn't have any stock wiring and now I have an American Autowire Power Plus 20 kit. I'm thinking I wire these into the column wires for both Ign Run and Ign Start?

I sent an email to Hotwire as well... so I'm hoping to hear back.

Riddler
 
Do the Pink and Yellow wires get attached to the column wiring? I guess I'm confused as my American Autowire harness has an ignition wire and alternator wire

I used the Hotwire setup on a 2013 Hemi. I wired mine this way and it starts and runs with the factory ignition switch (Dodge Challenger)
The factory ignition switch Has 5 wires :
Red... batt input to ign switch
Blue... run ( ign 1 )
Brown... start ( ign 2, bypass resistor to full feed the coil )
Black... Acc ( powers in RUN and ACC )
Yellow... Start ( ign 2, just to crank the starter motor

I used the Ron Francis wiring , They give you a 4 wire connector to use for the ignition switch, cut the factory plug off and use theirs.
I fused the Battery feed wire to the ignition switch , just like everything protected.
I combined the blue and brown, which gives you hot in crank and run positions, It feeds the fuse panel for circuits that call for a hot in run position and also feeds the Pink wire in the hotwire harness.
The yellow wire /crank feeds to the fuse panel for the neutral/clutch safety switch and starter and also to the yellow wire in the hotwire harness
The Ron Francis fuse panel has terminals for both the crank and ignition 1 , My wires go directly from ignition switch to the fuse panel ,
Then feeds from there to the hotwire harness (two wires and two terminal spades shared for these circuits at the fuse panel)

The hotwire harness has its own feed circuit for the control of the factory style alternator
 
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