Don't understand cams

Didn't mean you in particular just in general.
But it is up to you to steer us in the right direction or we'll just go on and on lol

When it comes to cams the further away you go from stock you the more you got change and not just with the engine but also drive line.

That cam you picked would need deep gears high stall. Engine would need better valve train exhaust and CR and to make the most of it also the heads intake and carb.

Something at 220-230 and around .480 lift
Would be better depends on the rest of your combo.

As for cam specs it's kind of a black art there no hard and fast rules you can go by.
The easiest thing is to look at what cam manufacturer recommend for mods for the cam and don't go bigger than the mods your willing to do like cr intake gears stall heads headers etc...

The most important aspects of a cam we mostly don't discuss like the intake and exhaust opening and closing points and overlap. But basically you need the lift to be high enough to take advantage of all the port has to offer and generally lift gives you power with less side effects like duration would. But going way over what a port has to offer gives you little to nothing more. Depending on heads for average guy build something in the .450-.550 range. As for duration you have so little time to fill the cylinders even at a low peak rpm of 5000 rpm the cylinders would need to be filled 20 times a second not very much time. For a street car you spend 90% of your time under 3000 rpm so you don't want cams that mess too much with that. Look at the cams recommend powerband not that it's dead on either side but the further your goes outside the powerband (sweet spot) the less happy you'll be with its performance and the powerband is based on that average engine in the family so for LA it would be 360 so you build something smaller the powerband will be at higher rpm and larger will be lower. So 215-235 @ 0.050.
As for lsa you don't have many choices for off the shelf cams so it becomes somewhat irrelevant.