Rear end choices (modified).

-

MOA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Messages
350
Reaction score
158
Location
CA
Forgive me if this has been asked a million times.

I need a stout rear end for my 72 A body Dart.

It has a 7.25 that won't last one hard launch.

I could try to source a 8.75 A body sure grip, and it will cost a grip O money..

I'm going to move the springs inboard to fit wider tires. It makes no sense to pay thru the nose for an original just to modify it.

What rear end is going to be the most economical and be stout enough to handle hard launches?

So many choices.

Dana 60?
8.25 mopar?
8.8 Ford?

I need to get a rear end under this thing ASAP. 411.
 
If gonna modify, then get a 8 3/4 from a C-body Mopar....cheeeep and plentiful, then narrow it and do what you need....if you go to a stock A-body width, then get some Yukon axles for an A-body with the big bolt pattern lugs.....what engine/trans you runnin?
 
Another question is....you doing the work yourself or paying someone? Might be cheaper to buy a stock 8 3/4 housing in the long run....
 
Another question is....you doing the work yourself or paying someone? Might be cheaper to buy a stock 8 3/4 housing in the long run....

I'll be doing all the fabrication and welding. Any machining work, I'm out.
 
When I priced them and looked at the options a couple years ago it was a quick and simple choice.

dana.jpg
 
Looks like a rear end on a pallet. What's the skinny on that?

I don't intend to make this a high hp car, moderate, maybe 300 hp if I'm lucky. But I still need a strong rear end because the trans is being built for 1/4 mile, it should hit pretty hard off the line and hit second pretty hard as well.

I finally have the money to get started on this rebuild and feel the rear end needs to be first, I don't want to have a fresh engine and trans sitting around waiting for the rear end to be finished.

From what I've learned, if you blow up a rear end, you also damage the trans. I'm building cal trac bars for it which should make 7.25 live longer but there is no way it will hold up to my abuse, I can't help myself, I will stomp on the gas. Plus, the ratio i believe is 292 limited slip. That's not going to work. So the rear end needs to be first. The rear springs are getting replaced as well as being moved inboard, subframe connectors etc. I'm not afraid to throw money at it, but there's no sense in getting something that is way more than I need.

I think this is a very common point of confusion for the first timer.
 
Last edited:
Dana 60 will take all you can throw at it and cost the least of the bunch.
 
Dana 60 will take all you can throw at it and cost the least of the bunch.

Did the same thing a couple of years ago....figured out how much to get a 8 3/4 in the Dart...Dana 60 was a better deal...
Bought it from Doctor Diff....probably going to put one in my Demon next ...Free shipping until January 31..
 
from strange an 8.75 built to my specs was around 5200 and the dana was 3200 or 3400. Granted, as you can see I decked mine out. Base price was like 1875
 
8.8 is cheap if you are not worried about stock or restoring. Walk into any parts place and get parts is a plus. Disk brakes and traclok for cheap. I paid $100 bucks for 3.73 tracloc and disc brakes.
 
If you are willing to get different offset wheels, there are folks who swap in stock length explorer 8.8's, simply having to move the hangers and deal with the driveshaft.
 
I don't have the wheels and tires yet so offset is not an issue yet. I need to read up on this subject a bit more....

Need to find out how much tire I can put under this thing with the leaf springs moved inboard and mini tubs.
 
Tell me more Mark.
I have a complete rear that I'm going to sell. It is still in my 67 Barracuda. Uncut, Has 1970 barracuda brakes 10x2",5x41/2 bolt pattern 3" studs.New all Dr.Diff, Ring&pinion 4:56 gears,clutches,side gears,spider gears and 1350.yoke .Yukon axles. Brakes hardware and wheel cylinders and brake drums are new.
Everything works better then new.$1800.00 for everything I am putting my dana60 in with ladder bars and coil over suspension.
Mark
 
I sold my factory A body 8.75 with 3.73's in it for 1,000+shipping. That would live I your combo. Maybe search out one of those.
 
8 3/4 would be my first choice if you can find them in the junkyard.
I just recently picked up a truck dana 60 that I narrowed. it already had the 4.10. Check your local wrecking yard.
Next would be the 8.25

The Ford 9 inch is scrap metal when compared to the 8 3/4
 
Very tempted mark. 4.56 i think is a little too high revving. Great for 1/4 mile!
 
I sold my factory A body 8.75 with 3.73's in it for 1,000+shipping. That would live I your combo. Maybe search out one of those.

If marks was a 3.73 it would be a done deal. Still tempted, need to add shipping costs, I'm in so cal. I would forego the mini tubs for now if I can find a reasonably priced drop in set up.
 
If marks was a 3.73 it would be a done deal. Still tempted, need to add shipping costs, I'm in so cal. I would forego the mini tubs for now if I can find a reasonably priced drop in set up.

Honestly, unless you want the look of bigger tires and all of the assaches that go along with having a mini tub A body use offset shackles.
 
-
Back
Top