727 Kickdown

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e50095

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I've been reading about the myriad of kickdown combinations that came with our cars. It seems the cable solution is best since it's adjustable. Problem is I want to keep it looking stock. My local Upullit has an 87 Dodge 3/4 Pickup with a stock intake and 4 barrel. Will that work in my 67 Barracuda, or are trucks different somehow. I'll be using a 727 from a truck behind a 340 from an E-body Cuda. Thanks guys...
 
I would be surprised if they are the same - if you have done any serious upgrades, you should probably read this (hell, you should read it even if you haven't) The LowDown On Stock Torqueflite Kick-Down Linkage
Yeah brother, I read that before I posted the question. The only changes I'm making are I found a nice set of 2.02 heads, HP manifolds, and an NOS thermoquad. Beyond that maybe a Performer intake will be about all I'll do. it's a convertible, so I don't need to go crazy on the motor. It'll be a beach cruiser when done. The 2.02 heads probably aren't even necessary but I couldn't pass them up when the opportunity arose.
 
did you see the board with all the different linkages? - DAMN!!! I think you're just asking for trouble trying to use a set up from something else... 2 weeks worth of headaches trying to make it work and in the long run, you may well end up with the Lokar (or similar) set up. I get where you are coming from though - if you do try the truck linkage, let us know how it goes.. it may turn out to be some tech others can use.
 
did you see the board with all the different linkages? - DAMN!!! I think you're just asking for trouble trying to use a set up from something else... 2 weeks worth of headaches trying to make it work and in the long run, you may well end up with the Lokar (or similar) set up. I get where you are coming from though - if you do try the truck linkage, let us know how it goes.. it may turn out to be some tech others can use.
I'll post how it goes....the linkage is only $10 according to their price sheet, so I can't go too wrong. I'm trying to convince myself the body doesn't matter, it's runs from carb to back of the head to trans. You're right, that board is crazy, and after seeing that I would never try to piece together a kickdown from miscellaneous pieces.....that's just beyond unrealistic.
 
I think you'll find that it's the body that IS the determining factor - the longer "intermediate" rod is bent to avoid the firewall and what-not depending on application..
 
I think you'll find that it's the body that IS the determining factor - the longer "intermediate" rod is bent to avoid the firewall and what-not depending on application..
I'm fixin' to find out....
 
The Bouchillon kickdown is the way to go.

I currently use Lokar and have used it on several cars. A couple things of note with Lokar. Make sure you're using the shortest kickdown arm on the transmission, there's many of varying lengths. If you have one of the longer arms you can drill a new hole closer to the pivot point. I'm not sure of the exact distance but I know it's been posted here or at Moparts.

Also some transmission kickdown arms have a good enough spring inside to return the cable, and some don't. On my car right now I had to add a very light return spring to get the transmission to downshift more consistently as the arm itself didn't have enough spring pressure to fully return 100% of the time.
 
I used early upper and intermediate linkages with the adjustable later model lower rod and found it to be a good setup.
 
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