1966 Barracuda engine swap to a 340 Six Pack

Hello FABO members ! Its been awhile since I've been on here (excuse my absence) but boy do I have some news for you all!

Recently I came across what I think is a pretty good deal for a 1968 340 motor. He even wanted to throw in a 68 date coded small block 727 trans with a brand new torque coverter for a couple bucks more. Problem was, the trans needs complete rebuilding and I know for a fact I need to do serious mods to make it fit. The motor is almost complete except its missing headers, intake manifold, and other misc. parts to actually make it run (pumps, carbs, etc). It does have some brackets and seller says that if I build it up, it will run. Not taking my chance on that though, if I go through with it, im rebuilding it all.

The good news is, I have a 318 motor currently in my 66 barracuda. I know all of its accessories will be a straight fit to that 340 .

But heres the crazy part...

How about I build a six pack on that 340 and place it in the barracuda? Now, that would be the only reason why I would buy the 340. Problem is.. im not exactly all that techy or experienced to do it myself. Heck, ive never done an engine swap before.

I have done some fair and hefty research on this.

Heres what I know:
- The 340 was semi-prepped for the track the man told me. I think he said it also has a low cam on it. (I partially have an idea of what the differences are between a low and high camshaft)
- It has a big block oil pan on it (he was going to also throw in an appropriate one for my 66)
- It has been sitting for a while
- Headers are an extremely tight fit once placed in (and hard to find)
- I believe its the left side motor mount that needs to be lifted or have washers added? Cant remember exaclty what it is now.
- The original 7 1/4 rear end may not hold it.. may need to upgrade to an 8 3/4
- I'm going to need a torque converter for the original 904 thats currently in it
- Six pack set ups are expensive
-... real expensive
- Hard to find that set up as well
- More GO power = More STOP power
- One more thing I know and I just cant recall it now..

What i semi-know:
- I NEED AC! I saw before an AC unit attached to a six pack on a 66 barracuda here on FABO.. I'll have to go back and search it as he gave his entire description as to how he did it and the information of the products he used.. Man was it beautiful. So I know its possible, but at what cost?

What I dont know:
- How much HP I'll get out of that 340 with the setup
- What heads are on the motor
- Can I even do the six pack setup on a 68? I know it was first placed on 70 motors
- Any suspension modifications that I have to do?
- Will frame twisting be a problem?
- Drive shaft?
- And pretty much any information/tips you guys can provide will be awesome.
- My Barracuda has AC and PS, will it be an influence while placing the 340?

Now, heres the craziest part of it all. I have about a 4k budget after I purchase that 340. Yikes, I know. I'm wondering if i can purchase everything with that and get straight to building. I dont want to buy some parts and then have it collect dust for some time as I try to make the $$ for whats missing.

Yea... I can play with the budget a tiny bit.. but lets try to keep it at that guys

Ladies and gents on FABO, please help me out with this dilemma. I am very eager to jump in on it but I dont want my emotions to get involved as I know my wallet will kill me.

Also! Anyone with a six pack set up they want to sell??


Thanks !!!

I say go for it I put a 340 with a 4 speed in my 65 Dart wagon. I used Schumacher mounts and a Bouchillon Performance has the kit for the A/C and P/S but it's not on the website you need to call about it. It uses the correct water pump but because of the pulley's off the 273 that I used the belt numbers were a little off but it's not a big deal. No matter what headers you use they are tight I used Doug's because there were no TTI's when I started

hemi446 said:

I say go for it I put a 340 with a 4 speed in my 65 Dart wagon. I used Schumacher mounts and a Bouchillon Performance has the kit for the A/C and P/S but it's not on the website you need to call about it. It uses the correct water pump but because of the pulley's off the 273 that I used the belt numbers were a little off but it's not a big deal. No matter what headers you use they are tight I used Doug's because there were no TTI's when I started

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Man does that thing look good in there!

The reason I mentioned the AC was because I am totally unsure if the large air intake above the carbs will get in the way of the compressor. I had remember reading that problem which led to the purpose of them (them being the post i read where they put the AC on the 6 pack) going the extra mile of placing a custom unit upfront and lower. Pretty sure a setup like yours will work though.

There are a few other things that I thought of that may help not to total your budget
With the Doug's headers you will need a u-joint instead of the factory coupler.
The 6 pack intake is for an e-body the heater hoses are different sizes so what I did to my new intake was drill out the intake hole for the 1/2 heater hose and tapped it so the bypass fitting from a Neon 2.0 would fit and you could have both 5/8 heater hoses and if you use a 90 degree bend heater hose and cut it so just clears the A/C compressor.
I also had to make the fuel line from the pump to the tee making sure it didn't rest on the heater hose or the alternator it is still tight even with the small A/C compressor.
Here are a few more pictures

hemi446 said:

There are a few other things that I thought of that may help not to total your budget
With the Doug's headers you will need a u-joint instead of the factory coupler.
The 6 pack intake is for an e-body the heater hoses are different sizes so what I did to my new intake was drill out the intake hole for the 1/2 heater hose and tapped it so the bypass fitting from a Neon 2.0 would fit and you could have both 5/8 heater hoses and if you use a 90 degree bend heater hose and cut it so just clears the A/C compressor.
I also had to make the fuel line from the pump to the tee making sure it didn't rest on the heater hose or the alternator it is still tight even with the small A/C compressor.
Here are a few more pictures

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Thank you so much! Lots of good info here. I also got to see that you manage to fit a booster for PB on there. That's good news for me since I plan on doing front discs with this setup. As of right now I just plan on doing its drum brakes (its about time anyways) and later doing the conversion since it ain't cheap! But I mean if it was, then everyone would do it, right?

Thanks Hemi !

P.S: I'm jealous yours is in and mine is only a thought!

With a 4K budget,at least one of us is dreaming!

Even if you were fully experienced in this type of work. I don't mean to knock you in any way, and I'm glad you are excited, but you are building a complete new car, So you need to re-evaluate you budget. Or your time-frame.
To recap; engine will be rebuilt, and
needs the following upgrades; Transmission, TC,the rearend, cooling system,fuel system, ignition system, the $2500plus 6pac system,suspension,steering,brakes,TIREs,exhaust, and don't forget the A/C.
I'm seeing over $13,000 Canadian in parts alone. And I'm seeing over 70 hours there. So if you have to pay people that could be another $7000 Canadian. SOooo,maybe $20000Canuck-bucks.
And we haven't even talked about the mini-tubs you are gonna need, nor about the big hole in the hood you are likely gonna have to make, and the fabulous header fitment. Mo time, and mo money.
Ok so now that the shine is off the apple, What can you do with $4000 USd and whatever the buy-in on the engine is/was?
Well, first things first, the 6pac has to go on the back burner, relegated to someday. Next to go is the mini-tubs, suspension, and tires. Then if your car does not already have A/C, back-burner that too.
Then grab a stock 904 and Stock TC, and an 8.25 with at least 2.94s. Of course that means the cam has got to be down-graded. Which may lead to a compression re-adjustment. Brakes are a must, so if you currently have 9s they gotta go. I would suggest a heavier set of T-bars and a swaybar as must-haves. With the smaller cam, the current fuel and ignition systems may be OK, and so also may be the current cooling system. That just leaves the exhaust system. You gotta have one, and the sources are limited so that cost is pretty much inescapable. However with near stock output from the 340, hi-po manifolds are back on the table, and Trebleg can get you going there.
So let's see where this is going;
340 gasket set,cam and lifters,used intake and carb, used904 with TC, a used 8.25 with a new LSD and 10 inch brakes, new rear big bp wheels, used 73DBs up front, with matching bp wheels, newT-bars, newS-bar, HO Trebleg manifolds, a lil exhaust work, and probably;tires.So what's that come to? In parts,I see maybe $5000Can. Maybe $3850USd? You are going to have to learn to do the work yourself........
As always, I'm wishing you the best.

Don't be discouraged. Plan on phasing your project over a time span comfortable to your budget. Grab the 340 of course first then plan on building the engine. We all have made the mistake of spending money for parts too fast only to find the same parts later for less when we don't need them. Take your time and enjoy the experience. It's a time for learning but go slow and don't over spend for the education. Sounds like you'll have a great car when your finished.
Dan

When I was younger I would upgrade the motor and replace things as they broke. Now I think a little more about how to steer and stop, especially with the extra power.

How much is a stroker kit for a teener that you already own, versus this 340 long-block? I mean a 3.58 kit and a small overbore would bring a teener up to 349 cubes. The extra stroke would help to bring the Scr up and oh the torque increase!In an early A this would be dynomite.For a streeter,I would waaay sooner stroke it than spend coin on a 340.

Nothing has to be done today take your time build what you want. Make parts purchases that are in your plans today but don't over spend on anyone part if your plans change make sure the parts you bought can be resold to get more funds for your new plans.
I looked for a lot of years for the wagon in the pictures and it was going to be a race car at one point but plans changed when I found a really good deal on a stroker crank and decided to make it a street car instead I sold the 68 340 engine to a friend and bought the 73 block that's in it now and with the extra money l got the rods and custom Ross pistons to make it a 375.
The point is that I have owned the car for 10 years and in that time it was driven about a month but I spend money on it when I have it and I'm not in to big rush it will be done when it's done.
Make the best plan you can and just don't stop working on the plan to many people think they can build a car it a year or two but for most of us it takes three times as long as we thought it would but when it's done you did it and you should take the credit for it. It's easy to find half done cars that people didn't finish for what ever reason and they never can take credit for only half and they never get to enjoy the journey or the ride
Damn way to long sorry

AJ/FormS said:

With a 4K budget,at least one of us is dreaming!

Even if you were fully experienced in this type of work. I don't mean to knock you in any way, and I'm glad you are excited, but you are building a complete new car, So you need to re-evaluate you budget. Or your time-frame.
To recap; engine will be rebuilt, and
needs the following upgrades; Transmission, TC,the rearend, cooling system,fuel system, ignition system, the $2500plus 6pac system,suspension,steering,brakes,TIREs,exhaust, and don't forget the A/C.
I'm seeing over $13,000 Canadian in parts alone. And I'm seeing over 70 hours there. So if you have to pay people that could be another $7000 Canadian. SOooo,maybe $20000Canuck-bucks.
And we haven't even talked about the mini-tubs you are gonna need, nor about the big hole in the hood you are likely gonna have to make, and the fabulous header fitment. Mo time, and mo money.
Ok so now that the shine is off the apple, What can you do with $4000 USd and whatever the buy-in on the engine is/was?
Well, first things first, the 6pac has to go on the back burner, relegated to someday. Next to go is the mini-tubs, suspension, and tires. Then if your car does not already have A/C, back-burner that too.
Then grab a stock 904 and Stock TC, and an 8.25 with at least 2.94s. Of course that means the cam has got to be down-graded. Which may lead to a compression re-adjustment. Brakes are a must, so if you currently have 9s they gotta go. I would suggest a heavier set of T-bars and a swaybar as must-haves. With the smaller cam, the current fuel and ignition systems may be OK, and so also may be the current cooling system. That just leaves the exhaust system. You gotta have one, and the sources are limited so that cost is pretty much inescapable. However with near stock output from the 340, hi-po manifolds are back on the table, and Trebleg can get you going there.
So let's see where this is going;
340 gasket set,cam and lifters,used intake and carb, used904 with TC, a used 8.25 with a new LSD and 10 inch brakes, new rear big bp wheels, used 73DBs up front, with matching bp wheels, newT-bars, newS-bar, HO Trebleg manifolds, a lil exhaust work, and probably;tires.So what's that come to? In parts,I see maybe $5000Can. Maybe $3850USd? You are going to have to learn to do the work yourself........
As always, I'm wishing you the best.

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I dont doubt any of the pricings! its a good thing i consulted here first. Thing is, i dont want to build a race car exactly. Just a nice cruiser who sounds mean and impresses a bit when ya put your foot down

Currently I have a 904 in it. So that helps. I also know a man who does exhausts. He placed the flowmasters I have on now. I'm sure he can make some custom headers that just might work. If not ill order them that's no biggie.

I was able to re-do all the bushings, springs, tie-bars, and practically the whole front suspension about 6 months ago.

Most definetely have to drop the $$ on the 8.25, rebuilding the motor, and tranny as well just to play it safe.

Cooling/fuel systems, I think its current setup just might do *crossing fingers*

Definitely gonna have to get a good ignition system. MSD most likely. Ill do my best to tuck that and hide it away.

Not sure how much a stroker kit would be.. however you think it beats a thousand bucks for a 340?

Truly appreciate all the assistance and info!!

75Sport said:

Don't be discouraged. Plan on phasing your project over a time span comfortable to your budget. Grab the 340 of course first then plan on building the engine. We all have made the mistake of spending money for parts too fast only to find the same parts later for less when we don't need them. Take your time and enjoy the experience. It's a time for learning but go slow and don't over spend for the education. Sounds like you'll have a great car when your finished.
Dan

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Thanks Dan! I definetely would like to build a bit of a head turner. Its not everday you see a six pack in an early A . I think itll be just too cheesy and lame to put it on a 70 'cuda(dont get me wrong, if i can afford it then heck yea! Although by that point ill put a hemi instead)

69conv said:

When I was younger I would upgrade the motor and replace things as they broke. Now I think a little more about how to steer and stop, especially with the extra power.

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If you think of just steering and stopping, did you hit the end of motor options and power?? lol

hemi446 said:

Nothing has to be done today take your time build what you want. Make parts purchases that are in your plans today but don't over spend on anyone part if your plans change make sure the parts you bought can be resold to get more funds for your new plans.
I looked for a lot of years for the wagon in the pictures and it was going to be a race car at one point but plans changed when I found a really good deal on a stroker crank and decided to make it a street car instead I sold the 68 340 engine to a friend and bought the 73 block that's in it now and with the extra money l got the rods and custom Ross pistons to make it a 375.
The point is that I have owned the car for 10 years and in that time it was driven about a month but I spend money on it when I have it and I'm not in to big rush it will be done when it's done.
Make the best plan you can and just don't stop working on the plan to many people think they can build a car it a year or two but for most of us it takes three times as long as we thought it would but when it's done you did it and you should take the credit for it. It's easy to find half done cars that people didn't finish for what ever reason and they never can take credit for only half and they never get to enjoy the journey or the ride
Damn way to long sorry

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Thats the thing, Id love to finish the build and be able to drive something I worked on. I just hope nothing gets in the way in the time being.


On a different note.. how much do you guys think a little toy like this would be worth after its done? Or at least what would you pay for it? I mean, not that I would sell it or anything like that... maybe..

Here are some photos of the motor compartment:













Ignore the zipties on the spark plug wires, I was doing the valve gaskets so I was just making absolute sure I can place them back correctly lol

In the long run, for some people, it is cheaper to buy a completed project and enjoy the heck out of it. The chance of success can be limited. Things like time, money, skill, dedication all factor in. An average home project can be a 5 to 7 year labor of love and can start, yes I said start at around $10,000 (not including vehicle price), and that is if you do most all the work. If life gets in you way over those 5 to 7 seven years, a move, new house, kids, divorce. Your chance for success dwindles. Get the girl safe and road worthy, do the things to upgrade as you go along. Then move to a final push for finishing touches. The only real reason to blow one completely apart to start is. It's already blown apart. Your building a showy car. You have a **** ton of rust repair. Or you just have a crap load of money to throw at it all at once. Oh, and a big block oil pan will not fit a small block. Best of luck. It is an absolutely wonderfully excruciating journey. Just be prepared for the ride.

Blind Squirrel said:

In the long run, for some people, it is cheaper to buy a completed project and enjoy the heck out of it. The chance of success can be limited. Things like time, money, skill, dedication all factor in. An average home project can be a 5 to 7 year labor of love and can start, yes I said start at around $10,000 (not including vehicle price), and that is if you do most all the work. If life gets in you way over those 5 to 7 seven years, a move, new house, kids, divorce. Your chance for success dwindles. Get the girl safe and road worthy, do the things to upgrade as you go along. Then move to a final push for finishing touches. The only real reason to blow one completely apart to start is. It's already blown apart. Your building a showy car. You have a **** ton of rust repair. Or you just have a crap load of money to throw at it all at once. Oh, and a big block oil pan will not fit a small block. Best of luck. It is an absolutely wonderfully excruciating journey. Just be prepared for the ride.

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My girl is practically done.. shes a beautiful looking thing and drives just as good as she looks. She may need a paint job.. shes got a couple knicks here and there, but I dont care since she turns heads all day. 99% rust free. Id just like to make something out of her. Make people really turn head and have a real good look ;). As far as the oil pan, i wish i took a photo of it. Its a vertically long pan with enough space to fill my oil pan twice haha.

Thanks for all the advice Blind

I kinda like the 66's myself!!

I agree with Blind. I would get the 340 in and working well. Then upgrade the brakes and drive it. Do the rest as you can. Personally, I love driving mine and, at this point, I'm not ready to take it off the road to disassemble and rebuild/restore it.

Sounds like you are enjoying your car! The one thing about the early a-bodies is they get attention since they weren't produced in the numbers of Mustangs.

66fyssh said:

I kinda like the 66's myself!!

I agree with Blind. I would get the 340 in and working well. Then upgrade the brakes and drive it. Do the rest as you can. Personally, I love driving mine and, at this point, I'm not ready to take it off the road to disassemble and rebuild/restore it.

Sounds like you are enjoying your car! The one thing about the early a-bodies is they get attention since they weren't produced in the numbers of Mustangs.

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Well I hope you do 66! If its yours that's on that profile pic, man is it beautiful !

I plan on getting the 340, making it look all nice, and have everything I need to have on it before I disassemble the 318 for its components to be placed on the 340.

I've been to a couple of car shows down her in SF, one of them with 500+ cars and two with 300+. Mustangs? All day and everywhere. An early A barracuda? Have yet to see another but mine B-)

Plans to pick up the 340 are set for Sat.! For an extra 200 bucks hes throwing in an engine stand, the 727, and a brand new torque converter for the 727..

Now I'm wondering if I should just sell it to make a quick buck on it... what can I say.. I love doing business

what are the xhaust manifolds 318 or 340 what year ? thanks

moparraceman said:

what are the xhaust manifolds 318 or 340 what year ? thanks

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Hey there moparracerman, the exhaust manifolds on mine (the baby blue barracuda) are on a 318. As far as I'm concerned, they're regular cast iron 64-66 A body small block manifolds.. not sure of year. The one on hemi446's are Dougs headers on a 340.

thanks

She's in my hands now




"6-21-67"







Can anyone help me out with those numbers? "3418 1 F" im a bit confused on that. Unless its some aftermarket J heads.



Cant wait to give her the cleaning she needs and the set up she deserves B-)

Ive got a quick question hopefully someone can answer me. If I'm not mistaken, a 340 six pack set up should fit on any year 340 correct? I know they came out 70-71 with the six pack (i think). So does the set up work on earlier 340s? Like the 67 ive got? Or is there something that varies year to year? I mean really what would change (if it does) would be the intake since the carbs are the same between 340s and 440s.. right?


Man I've still got a lot to learn... and a six pack set up to search and buy..