I had some A/C work done on my 06 Ram Diesel truck. They removed the passenger side battery to gain access to the A/C lines. When I got the truck back, my lights did that same thing. I found that they didn't reconnect the body ground from that battery. I reconnected it and problem solved.
Does this mod increase the voltage to the ignition blue wire? I run a 130 amp alt and had to use an adjustable vr (the stock vr would charge at 16v) and even with the adjustable vr I still get voltage jumping between 13-14 volts on gauge? Drives me crazy!
The way its drawn, the mod changes only the regulator supplied voltage. To cut that blue or blue w/white, add the relay and upgrade the voltage to every component downstream would be better.
I am getting about 13.8 volts now. I am using the adjustable regulator as well. I had it on the car before I put the relay in and the voltage was around 14.6 or so. I used jumper cables to get a good ground and started the car and adjusted the regulator using my Fluke multimeter. Also I didn't mention that I ran a ground wire (just to be sure) from my alternator case to the regulator mounting screw. This mod will assure that the blue wire is at battery voltage and therefore will keep the regulator from overcharging your battery. I believe that the real problem here is dirty/ worn out ignition switch contacts, but this will keep you from having to replace the switch. Let me know if you need help
Thanks, i`ll try the relay and double check the grounds, anything to stop the voltage jumping! it's not a big deal in the daylight but its crazy how much 1 volt fluctuation makes the lights look stupid!
I know what you mean, it drove me crazy as well. All can tell you is after this modification my lights are rock solid and my voltage gauge sits at about a perfect 13.8 volts. I know that the battery voltage is 12 volts but when the alternator is charging 13.8 is normal. You know, you can easily try this theory out buy running temporary wire from the battery or starter relay to the center wire on the regulator (terminal I in the diagram). Also make sure that the regulator has a good ground. This would be a temporary test and if it works you would need to install the relay.
Thanks, im gonna try it.
Good Luck Man,
Hey, how's it going? Any luck?
To much going on with Christmas to get to it yet but I did take it out for a ride yesterday!
How did you make out?
Absolutely, I am more than happy to help. I know what a nightmare I went through trying to get mine fixed. It seems like it's an issue with the ignition switch contacts. The relay is an easy install, it should only take you about a half hour. Let me know if you need any help. Happy NEW YEAR!
I do agree with you that it's a good indicator but it's also a known weak link. All of the current for the car goes through the amp gauge and this would not normally have been an issue back in 1969 but the wiring and bulkhead connections have aged. Couple that with the fact that newer accessories (ignition, higher performance lighting and audio systems) draw a lot more current through these wires and connections and you have a recipe for disaster. I have seen these gauges melt in the dash.. My modifications only effect the voltage going to the regulator. If it's not a steady voltage then charging is going to be erratic and therefore the lights are going to flicker. The MAD alternator gauge bypass is what eliminates the alternator gauge. I have done all of that as well and believe me I like an amp gauge much better but for the above reasons I modified the system.
