Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
Ok good to know. My motor sits 7" from center of waterpump to bottom of front frame rails
Which K member?
- Thread starter Holy Roller
- Start date
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Hopp
Member
Ok new here but trying to figure out if I should find a stock small block K member or buy a new tubular one. I have a 73 /6 car and am converting to a Gen III hemi. I want to make sure I inly purchase the right stuff the first time so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
I have been working on my 68 barracuda for a couple of years so I'm definitely no expert. But from what I have learned, there is a difference between a 6/small block k member and big block k member and a hemi k member. I know you can use Schumacher conversion mounts to convert from a small block to a big block. I'm switching from small block to big block myself and have'nt decided on useing a stock "big block" k member or the tubular one. I don't want to use conversion mounts on mine... in my opinion..a tubular k member would be better but I want mine to be closer to original . There are a lot of great guys (and women) on here who are Mopar well springs of information, so your in the right place. You might also read some of the other forums if you haven't already. This is a great place for information, finding parts and meeting good people.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Being that there really isn't a stock k-member and mounts to get your engine in place I would likely use a conversion set or fab my own.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
If you switched a small block k member for a bb k member, would you still have to do any modi
Is there a difference between a bb k member and a hemi k member? I saw a lot of them in Carlisle, but I never thought to ask.
MoparMcK
Well-Known Member
I am in the works on this same project 318 to a 440. I refused and don't have the money for the fancy mounts. Plus didn't want to be replacing mounts in the future. The drivers mount is a C-body style mount with some shims. On the passenger I used a truck mount that was in a 76 W200 and a chunk of 2x6 tubing. Has the motor sitting level from side to side. Plenty of room for a decent fan setup. The blower motor would clear but I chose to remove it. I had to clearance the back of the drivers valve cover due to the wiring harness. I am also throwing a 4 speed into the mix. Once I get the Zbar modified, the TTI 1 3/4" headers will fall into place with ease. Some people may not like my setup since it is old school and maybe not the prettiest or cleanest setup but who sees under the hood when it is going down the street or the track???? I will say it has been very frustrating and have had to resort to researching and others for tips and tricks but it will be worth it in the end. Good Luck with your project!!
ssba
Well-Known Member
I like your lowbuck style 4geardemon. The wood part not so much but I have done worse in my days before having a welder to keep a car on the road.
The Hemi's do take a modified BB K member.
Although it has been modified so extensive you should just consider them completely different from the BB frame.
The biggest problem with the factory BB parts is they are rare. This also makes them more costly and generally only considered or sought out by restorers of the factory big block cars from 67-69. Their also is some small differences within these 3 years.
Not sure if it still applies but I believe they use a rubber motor mount that has been unavailable for many years. I haven't checked into this recently.
The driver side engine mounting bracket only worked on blocks cast with a forward facing boss missing on many big block castings. Other blocks may have the boss but are not machined to accept the bolt needed for the special bracket. Their are guys here that can go into more detail on the factory parts than I can.
I started putting BB in A-bodies before the Schumacher parts became available so I am OK with having to do some fabricating.
That and I just never couId come to terms with paying $150. for engine mounts like is nomally done these days.
The DC frame modification/ spool conversion mentioned earlier worked for me on my first BB swap.
Since then I don't even bother tracking down a small block frame to modify. It would be easier though.
Cheapest and most accurate way I found is to cut the mounts off whatever frame you have and weld on some fabbed up brackets with the car & engine blocked up safely in place.
Have the transmission mount, engine brackets, headers, starter, oil pump and torsion bars already installed to get the proper & level placement with the parts you are using. Clearances can vary from car to car.
This saves you from needing any shims or any clearance problems that can sometimes come up with prefabbed parts.
I prefer the C-body spool engine brackets that usually came with my engine and I would probably source them even if I didn't have them already. They can be modified to solid if desired or work as is. I like to make the driver side engine bracket solid so no limiter is needed or has a rubber mount to fail. Urethane spool inserts are available and I use them on both the passenger side and transmission.
This will transmit more engine vibration thru the chassis than the rubber parts. Not as harsh as completely solid but it does wonders with keeping the clutch linkage precise and helps prevent header contact rattles where they are close.
A couple of short pieces of 2"x3" rectangle tube left over from making subframe connectors can be trimmed into shape for the new frame brackets or use whatever steel you got that is at least 1/8" thick.
Tack weld your homebuilt frame brackets to k-member in at least 3 places or as solid as you can while bolted to engine brackets.
This should be done to prevent welding heat from
pulling bracket out of place. This is important.
Remove the engine for access to do the final welding. Its probably not the easiest way to do the swap but it gives you complete control of how well the fit ends up.
If I didn't weld/fab this myself, my choice would be useing one of Jim's k-members.
The Hemi's do take a modified BB K member.
Although it has been modified so extensive you should just consider them completely different from the BB frame.
The biggest problem with the factory BB parts is they are rare. This also makes them more costly and generally only considered or sought out by restorers of the factory big block cars from 67-69. Their also is some small differences within these 3 years.
Not sure if it still applies but I believe they use a rubber motor mount that has been unavailable for many years. I haven't checked into this recently.
The driver side engine mounting bracket only worked on blocks cast with a forward facing boss missing on many big block castings. Other blocks may have the boss but are not machined to accept the bolt needed for the special bracket. Their are guys here that can go into more detail on the factory parts than I can.
I started putting BB in A-bodies before the Schumacher parts became available so I am OK with having to do some fabricating.
That and I just never couId come to terms with paying $150. for engine mounts like is nomally done these days.
The DC frame modification/ spool conversion mentioned earlier worked for me on my first BB swap.
Since then I don't even bother tracking down a small block frame to modify. It would be easier though.
Cheapest and most accurate way I found is to cut the mounts off whatever frame you have and weld on some fabbed up brackets with the car & engine blocked up safely in place.
Have the transmission mount, engine brackets, headers, starter, oil pump and torsion bars already installed to get the proper & level placement with the parts you are using. Clearances can vary from car to car.
This saves you from needing any shims or any clearance problems that can sometimes come up with prefabbed parts.
I prefer the C-body spool engine brackets that usually came with my engine and I would probably source them even if I didn't have them already. They can be modified to solid if desired or work as is. I like to make the driver side engine bracket solid so no limiter is needed or has a rubber mount to fail. Urethane spool inserts are available and I use them on both the passenger side and transmission.
This will transmit more engine vibration thru the chassis than the rubber parts. Not as harsh as completely solid but it does wonders with keeping the clutch linkage precise and helps prevent header contact rattles where they are close.
A couple of short pieces of 2"x3" rectangle tube left over from making subframe connectors can be trimmed into shape for the new frame brackets or use whatever steel you got that is at least 1/8" thick.
Tack weld your homebuilt frame brackets to k-member in at least 3 places or as solid as you can while bolted to engine brackets.
This should be done to prevent welding heat from
pulling bracket out of place. This is important.
Remove the engine for access to do the final welding. Its probably not the easiest way to do the swap but it gives you complete control of how well the fit ends up.
If I didn't weld/fab this myself, my choice would be useing one of Jim's k-members.
Hopp
Member
So is what I'm hearing is that I can make my existing K member work for the new hemi with some fabricated brackets.
ssba
Well-Known Member
The OP holy roller is asking about installing a 383 BB.
Sorry, I don't have any experience with the modern Hemi's.
Sorry, I don't have any experience with the modern Hemi's.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm in the process of a 383 install...I wished I could drop a hemi in. That would be awesome. I didn't want all the brackets either, thats why I opted for the bb k member. Although, I wouldn't mind a tubular system with new brakes and all...maybe in time.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Correct. Since there is no k-member made for your application (except some aftermarket) you are going to have to use some sort of conversion mount, whether home-made or bought.
MoparMcK
Well-Known Member
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
gregpurcell
Greg Purcell
If you go to the Schumacher site (engine-swaps.com), they have copies of ALL the step by step instructions for each of their conversion kits. One thing Schumacher does very well is instructions. You can look at the instructions for each kit BEFORE you buy to see exactly what drilling and modification will be involved. They are pricey but very easy to use. You can also sometimes buy used Schumacher kits here and on other sites for far less than the list price.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your help, I do have a Schumacher catalog. But I haven't decided to go with a set up like QA1 or find a factory bb K member.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Or go with the Schumacher conversion kit, I've been leaning towards the QA1 or something similar to see if I would possibly have more header room.
RUFF62
Well-Known Member
I have a set of Schumacher mounts to install a 383 in a 67 Barracuda..
RUFF62
Well-Known Member
383 in 67 Barracuda
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Thats what I'm putting in my 68 barracuda, I want to see if a tubular k member would give me any more clearance for headers. I really don't want to go through the fender well.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Looks good, how does it run...
RUFF62
Well-Known Member
To be truthful I only drove it maybe 5 miles...but it ran decent. Things happen and I have the engine, trans, radiator, tires and wheels and complete exhaust....and the Barracuda has a new owner.
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Aww man, what happened....my engine is still under construction, it's been bored 30 over w/flat tops. I'm using a Comp hydraulic roller, with a offy 2/4 holly 600's. I'm hoping she'll at least smoke the tires..lol
Spun Bearing
Lost in Space
1970 /6 Duster with 383 4-speed conversion done on the stock K-frame by HemiDenny at HDK.
It uses Schumacher conversion mounts and TTi under chassis headers with the #7 tube modified.
My understanding is that this conversion is not an HDK catalog item but it shows what can be done.
It uses Schumacher conversion mounts and TTi under chassis headers with the #7 tube modified.
My understanding is that this conversion is not an HDK catalog item but it shows what can be done.
Last edited:
Holy Roller
Well-Known Member
Are you using a manual or power steering box, if manual..did you change it
Looks great, did you have to change the power steering box to manual .
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