Well that sorta sucked...

cdstl said
We have a Champion with about 1/2" clearance and I didn't want to chance hitting it with the fan when we lifted the motor. That's why the Rad came out.

It seems everyone goes about it a different way. This is the first that I've seen both T bars pulled. This worked for us so I guess the next guy may read this thread and either go my route or at least realize that he may end up doing what I did.

Kinda what I did going in. I knew that other guys had to pull the column and others pulled the PS T bar. I just wanted to add to the internet the next time someone searches this out.

Thanks

Yeah I've got a champion as well but I run electric fans. I had to disconnect the hoses to lift the engine but that was it. The torsion bars free up a ton of space, and I needed it because of the kick outs on the milodon road race oil pan. I did have to cycle the steering back and forth to move the links around, but I didn't drop them.

Johnny Pace said
I had a cheapy set of flowtech's on mine at one point...I literally had no issues you pointed out other than dropping the drag link for the driver side, which is obviously required. Sorry you had all those issues. I guess i'm in no hurry to start carrying Dougs...

Yeah the below the steering link headers go in easier, too bad they smash flat in no time because they hang down so far. Doug's are better than flowtechs on every measure. Yes they're harder to install because they don't trap the steering link, but they're far better quality. Equivalent to the TTI's, slightly different design. Sometimes that's good and they have better clearance, sometimes it's not and the TTI's clear better. Depends on the car and the accessories/mods. But for headers on these cars with a small block I'd never buy anything other than Doug's or TTI's. Nothing else is even close to the same quality.