Next step for more HP (383BB)

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schmitt

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So I'm looking to add more HP to my 383BB I built last winter.

Currently at about 420hp (crank) would like to get to that 500 mark or a touch more if possible.

What would be a good direction to go off my current build? Port work on the heads, port match intake, prw 1.6 rockers, more cam?

Can I go to a blower setup with the compression I currently have?

Current engine specs. (Some rambling in my notes sorry)


Bore - 4.280

Stroke 3.38

Rod length 6.358

Gasket bore 4.40

Block deck height 9.960 (stock=9.980) Took .020 off

HG thickness - .039 (Felpro)

Piston to deck height - .000 to .005

Piston volume - (-6) (KB400 .030 dome pistons)

Chamber size – 84cc (I'm using sidewinders from Mopartsracing.com *Todd*)

Total comp = 10.01:1

Comp Dual valve springs (925-16)

Comp retainers (741-16)

Comp super locks (611-16)


Comp Cam XE274H part number 21-224-4
Intake 274/488- Exhaust 286/491


Additional specs:

Weiand Action plus intake

MSD Pro-Billet Distributor with blaster 2 coil

Fel-pro valve covers (fel1612) work with mopar valve covers

Pro systems Holley pro series 4150 carb

Holley blue fuel pump (7psi)

440 source aluminum water pump (160 thermostat )

3400 Dynamic converter (Frank Lupo)

30” rear tires M/T

Dana 60 3:55 gears

Truck weight 3650#


Tuning Sharadon Performance (70 primary jets)- (13 initial timing, 34 all in at 2800rpm)

451hp Engine Dyno (open headers)

420hp through full exhaust (started at 346)

364hp at rear wheels (started at 301)

364 rear wheel hp= 451 crank HP
 
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Here she sits

IMG_2756.JPG
 
More initial timing will clean up the idle and transition off idle. 13* is very low for that camshaft/engine combo.

Port the heads and more camshaft will get you closer to your 500 number.
 
More initial timing will clean up the idle and transition off idle. 13* is very low for that camshaft/engine combo.

Port the heads and more camshaft will get you closer to your 500 number.

Doesn't seem to want to start hot when I have more Initial timing
 
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that's odd, my distributor in the 383 is locked at 36* and starts right up hot or cold
 
Have you raced this truck on the track at all? I think your conversion to crank HP is rather "happy". I have a hard time seeing that combo making that kind of power. I'd have it closer to 420-430. MPH and weight would tell you the truth.
IMO - the gearing is holding you more than anything else. The current power may not be a problem. To get more power from it means more rpm and less torque. You give up low end to get the peak numbers up with that short stroke. If the "need" is a more powerful sensation at or below the rpm range you cruise at now, put in a deeper gear. That's a lot of weight for 3.54s and a 383.
If you are dead set on the changes - replace the intake with an RPM, add a good spacer, and replace the cam with a solid lifter with another 40-45 degrees at .050 and .080-.100" lift. Then it will make the numbers, but really feel like a pig.
 
Have you raced this truck on the track at all? I think your conversion to crank HP is rather "happy". I have a hard time seeing that combo making that kind of power. I'd have it closer to 420-430. MPH and weight would tell you the truth.
IMO - the gearing is holding you more than anything else. The current power may not be a problem. To get more power from it means more rpm and less torque. You give up low end to get the peak numbers up with that short stroke. If the "need" is a more powerful sensation at or below the rpm range you cruise at now, put in a deeper gear. That's a lot of weight for 3.54s and a 383.
If you are dead set on the changes - replace the intake with an RPM, add a good spacer, and replace the cam with a solid lifter with another 40-45 degrees at .050 and .080-.100" lift. Then it will make the numbers, but really feel like a pig.

Thank you!

I have not had it to the track

420 was a peak number with mufflers on the dyno. Rollers

I went to a 30" rear tire now from a 26". I could prob go 4:10 now. I was cruising at 3000 rpm at 60mph before. This was with my old TCI converter too.

Just got the dynamic converter built and a Cheetah valve body.
 
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that's odd, my distributor in the 383 is locked at 36* and starts right up hot or cold
I run 24 initial and 36 total + vac. I could lock it out at 36, but it gets a little frisky.
 
Hydraulic roller cam, at 230 ish duration, should be over .550 lift. Lift pretty much=flow and flow=power. If you want to stay with flat tappet, the Comp XE/HL hydraulics or the Hughes cams should have you at .525 or so at 230'ish durations. Try the XE275HL. Similar to what you have WRT duration, only more lift from more aggressive profiles. I wouldn't go more than that on duration, unless you go to 4.10 gears.

Have the heads flowed and make a decision on porting based on those numbers. Did Todd at moparts give you any info when you purchased the heads? Without objective data, you're just firing blindly. If you're near Gurnee IL, or willing to take a trip, I can flow your heads, and make recommendations accordingly from there. S/F.....Ken M
 
my current cam specs

I'm sure Todd had flow numbers, I'll check

IMG_4168.JPG
 
EcosixMike,

Flow numbers for you


Angle plugs
  • 11/32 stem
  • 2.14 intake/ 1.81 exhaust
  • 84 cc chambers
  • 210 cc intake runner volume
  • 70 cc exhaust runner volume
  • Bronze guides
  • Uses all stock type manifolds, valve covers, rockers, headers and gasket

Lift3.jpg
 
Giving me some good ideas here...I'd like to drop my in pieces 383 into my Dad's '84 Ramcharger with about 3500 stall and 3.92 gears. Love how it looks man
 
Just an idea.....With about a .550 lift hydraulic roller.....Here's your 500 hp.

From Trick Flow's site.
PowerPort 240 Airflow Results
Lift Value Intake Flow CFM Exhaust Flow CFM
.100" 78 58
.200" 154 130
.300" 230 186
.400" 282 222
.500" 310 243
.600" 326 253
.700" 334 262
Tests conducted at 28" of water (pressure). Bore size: 4.350"; exhaust with 2" pipe.
 
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have you done the research on those ss/pu's that ran back in the day . it was not hp or traction that held them back on times and mph . its the body design , it don't like pushing throw the head wind . i've got this design and its not hp to make it fast . my 383 street package .

DSC08197.JPG


DSC07848.JPG
 
N2O seems like a crutch. Not for me.....ever.
I use to say that but it's nice to have a car that cruises.It depend on what you think will cut the mustard.I use to cruise in a 8 second car.It was hard on it.It was all motor.Where I live there are a bunch of fast cars
 
I use to say that but it's nice to have a car that cruises.It depend on what you think will cut the mustard.I use to cruise in a 8 second car.It was hard on it.It was all motor.Where I live there are a bunch of fast cars
Agreed,B.D....
 
Nitrous is no different than a supercharger or a turbo with exception to having an on and off switch. the point mentioned above is very valid.
 
Well, at least you don't have to (expensively) refill a supercharger or a turbocharger.

Nitrous makes power that is not due to a superior mechanical design. You can put it
on a piece of garbage and make it run fast (until you blow it up).

I will never give any creedence to the performance of a machine enhanced by N2O.

JMHO.
 
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Well, at least you don't have to (expensively) refill a supercharger or a turbocharger.

also a valid point.

IMO it has it's place in heads up racing. Drag week, fastest street car challenge, illegal street car racing.
 
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