Jp5
Well-Known Member
i do. i'll try hoping onto that and seeing what happens. thanks, man!
pertronix issues
- Thread starter Jp5
- Start date
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i do. i'll try hoping onto that and seeing what happens. thanks, man!
You're welcome!
I think if you get the timing in line, you'll see improvement. I'm not a slant guy, but I think they are closer to TDC than the V8.
I think if you get the timing in line, you'll see improvement. I'm not a slant guy, but I think they are closer to TDC than the V8.
Jp5
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I responded from my new phone. Not good and the new spell check isn't good either.
You could stick a screwdriver in the cam gear drive and "unscrew it" to move it a notch or you could just move the plug wires on the cap.
Jp5
Well-Known Member
i went and pulled the dist out and rotated it with no success. all i got were hardish knocks big backfires and no start. i think i may have tried every possible position. so i put it back to how it was. after adjusting the timing the thing has shown improvement, idle is nice, revs are pretty crispy up to about 3k but it still breaks up to the same degree as it did before. i'm thinking it may be my voltage. tomorrow i'l try powering from a full 12V wire and see what happens. currently even though i bypassed the ballast, the coil is getting about 6v with key in the "run" position. once running it's above 14V, but pertronix tech notes call for 8v min with key in "run" position. not sure what dif it would make but i'll give it a shot.
May be time to static time it. Pull #1 plug and have someone bump the engine over until it blows your finger out. Look at the timing mark and line it up to around 10° before tdc. Pull the cap and see what post the rotor points to. Make that #1 and follow around the rotation. 18436572 is the order. That should get you 10° btdc and as long as the distributor body is in between it's travel you should have room to move it wherever you need it. tmm
Mike, he's running a Slant 6. I agree with timing it from scratch so you know your timing is correct. Same procedure and firing order is 153624
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Any time you change any distributor parts (even new points), you must adjust timing. If points, you also had to fool with "dwell". The Pertronix II is similar to GM HEI. To get full benefit, you need an e-core type coil and quality plug wires. If using the old coil and wires, it may be internally arcing at the higher voltage, thus missing spark. To stay factory Mopar, take the coil and plug wires off a Magnum engine (V-6 or V-8). They are all over the junkyards. The Magnum wires appear to be high-quality silicone, with each wire conveniently labeled "coil", "cyl 1", etc, at least the ones I pulled were. Otherwise, spring for MSD or Accel parts, depending on whether you prefer red or yellow and don't mind "Made cheap in China, sold high in U.S.".
Jp5
Well-Known Member
so it turns out the culprit was in fact voltage. after digging around my fuse box i jump in the car to go buy myself a dual connector(to wire the coil from a new 12v power source) and the car feels good. real good. so i give it full throttle just out of morbid curiosity and no break up what so ever. she's rippin! so i get home and test power at the coil and what was about 8 before is now just under 12. i can only presume that a hoopty connection or grounding or somewhere got settled when i was digging around. voila.
thanks for all the feedback once again
jp
thanks for all the feedback once again
jp
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iw378
Well-Known Member
I agree. Maybe at least rewire the ignition wiring. OP, how did you bypass the ballast. Just curious
Jp5
Well-Known Member
indeed. that relapse will like happen next time i start the car. and yeah got a bunch of wire replacing to do. every time i reach under the dash something different flickers. ha!
i jumped the ballast by just replacing it with a wire between the two connectors
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