Too much heat

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Garry

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64 Cuda original 273 intake . Is there a way to defer some of the heat in the two areas left and right of the carb., without affecting warm up idle It fried my nice paint job in those two spots ?
 
Two options. Block off the heat cross over. Or live with it.
 
double check the tune is dead on
if your running lean that creates extra heat

perhaps a lower thermostat might also help keep underhood temps lower (as will ensuring that the cooling system is up to snuff)


worst case scenario, take those shiny parts off and have them powdercoated
what steps did you take to ensure the paint was up to NORMAL underhood temperatures?
 
PPG concept best they produce paint jobber assured me it would hang on especially with epoxy primer And it is performing well all except those two spots about 2" around. Powder coating for heat has limited colors. did the ex man. in gray. holding up well. Been looking cant find any one to powder coat for heat to match engine color. Had another paint jobber tell me that engine paint is a misnomer that it all burns off the only true engine paint is the paint with ceramic in it. The term "engine paint" is just for color matching. These engines really don't get that hot except for ex man. and I guess those two areas on the intake,
 
Presuming your engine is a stock color, @CudaChick1968 should be able to tell you if there is a powder out there that matches or not

But if your painted ASSURED you it wouldn't burn of, I'd have a chat with him

(After I make sure there is nothing going on that raises my underhood temps, like I mentioned before)
 
Garry said:
64 Cuda original 273 intake . Is there a way to defer some of the heat in the two areas left and right of the carb., without affecting warm up idle It fried my nice paint job in those two spots ?
Click to expand...
No. The intake is original, what about everything else? All OE intakes do that in general so, you can only minimize what's inevitable by making sure Your timing isn't late, riser
valve isn't stuck & working correctly, A/F mix isn't off,etc. Felpro's started including "partial" block-off gaskets in their intake sets, which basically had a roughly 1/8" hole
in the crossover port section, hmmm late 70's early 80's I guess. Haven't checked on the stk. intake only set lately, but that would be the only compromise that would keep
the warm-up/choke operation acceptable. Otherwise, what 72Dart6pack said, I've done that too. But cold warm up will suck.
 
Ya, I have made my own block off plates, after years of screwing around I found a thin sheet of stainless steel you can get from McMaster Carr .010 or whatever you want cut it out punch a hole 1/8" or what ever works for you to open the choke and RTV it to the gasket just yo hold it in place when assembling it, the gasket will take up the thin metal, stainless wont burn through.
It worked for me. McMaster-Carr
 
I should also add that running a cast intake cold will run lean in general, so that needs to be considered/addressed as well, you may be re-jetting...........
& be careful going to McMaster-Carr's site, you could end up in an hours long twilight zone mesmerized by all the stuff You can get there.......:thumbsup:
 
He is talking about the exhaust heat crossover in the intake manifold. I don't think any amount of tuning is going to prevent the paint from getting cooked.
 
If you want it to be 100% correct - let it burn...lol. If you want it pretty then block the crossover..
 
If you have headers, I would kill two birds with one stone, and block those passages. If you do not have an electrical assisted choke heater, you will probably need one in colder climes.
 
Yes I am talking about the exhaust heat crossover in the intake manifold. The car was my dads he bought it new here in my home town of Louisville ,Ohio I restored it to 100% original, and what an undertaking, but its done, Will try to post a picture ( if I can figure this uploading all out ), Well I am just wondering if those two spots are too hot for powder coating, Cuda chick says its good for 5 to 600 degrees. Would those two spots get that hot ???
 
Yes, We were all talking about the exh. crossover in the intake, I didn't know there was any confusion 'till post #9. The answer is, no you can't really divert the exhaust, you
either seriously restrict it or block it. Both will affect warm-up & driveablity, and may require some rejetting, so how bad do You want to stop the paint from burning? The
crossover can get pretty hot, when the heat riser is closed, almost all of the exh. from that bank runs thru' the intake via the exh. valve tied to the crossover. The extent of
how hot & how much burns off how wide can be affected by tune, driving habits, how restrictive the exhaust system is, everything working correctly(riser sticking/slow to
open), etc.........but stock as is it is normal. I would think powder coat could handle it if everything is working normally, get a cheap IR temp gun and shoot those sections &
and see how it compares to the exh. mannys, they usually shoot 450-600degF warming up & idling/low rpm unloaded.
 
I have put an IR gun on the exhaust manifolds, and most engines idle at about 300* to 450*F. Running the Rs up just a little can bring the exhaust MANIFOLDS up to 400,500, and more very quickly.So the exhaust itself could be higher. I have read that the combustion chamber temperature can regularly be 800*F and even to 1000 degrees. I don't imagine that crossover getting up that high, obviously. But since the underside of that passage gets coked up, and even the internal crossover cokes up on hi-mileage engines, we can know that it regularly exceeds 250*F. Perhaps it runs over that more or less continuously.
I've never been able to keep paint on there for very long either.
 
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wow this is such valuable information you guys are sharing thanks so much and to this FABO site !!! This is helping me make a decision on what to do I may just leave it since it is a stock issue. Unless it is a high temp powder coat I'm not sure I want to gamble the time and cost. That area of the intake may very well exceed 500 degrees at times and I think the 5 to 600 degree limit (par cuda chic) for conventional powder coat could be a borderline issue , and the high temp coat is
very limited in colors.( mine engine is painted original color)
 
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