Tire rubbing
The problem is your wheel adapters. Have your axles and drums re drilled to 4.5. We do them all the time. And yes there is enough flange to do it. you have to use threaded race studs/bolts that come in from the rear of the flange and tack weld them on the back side to prevent them from screwing in board when tightening the lug nuts. When doing this and using a using 1/4 inch spacers any big bolt standard back space B-body 4.5 wheel will fit. Up to 8 inch.
We did this for years also with slicks and never had a problem. A 275 15 should fit under the back with room to spare at factory height. Also you can use spacers in front of the front spring perches to move the rear back for taller tires. This will also give your rear shackles more travel ,Which is needed when lifting the car from factory height. The pic below the duster has drilled axles. one side was moved back 1/2 inch to get the correct track because some bodies are usually made wrong. When ever you see a car trying to spin around when doing a burnout. it is caused by the rear axle not in the car straight.
We have had to fix mini tubbed cars that were moved in by following the instruction to use the factory perches to locate there front boxes . This is a No No. Check the location of the front perch mount on your cars compared to the hole in the underside of the frame. Most are way off . Bodies in white and cars with frame boxes were mostly correct. So 4 spd cars and Bodies in white should be good.
We do axles and drums. 67 axles and back are the best axles they don't have the extra two balance holes opposite of the axle flange nut access hole and are usually easier to locate the re drilled holes for the studs. But all can be used. We have never saw a axle that cannot be drilled. But as said 67 have more meat. Never believe the location of your wheel opening. They are sometimes way off. I have doors that are some times 3/16 longer and shorter. This is common we fought with a Demon when pulling it with a frame machine. To find out it was the door that was causing the gap to be off. Just some heads up from experience with mopars
The problem is your wheel adapters. Have your axles and drums re drilled to 4.5. We do them all the time. And yes there is enough flange to do it. you have to use threaded race studs/bolts that come in from the rear of the flange and tack weld them on the back side to prevent them from screwing in board when tightening the lug nuts. When doing this and using a using 1/4 inch spacers any big bolt standard back space B-body 4.5 wheel will fit. Up to 8 inch.
We did this for years also with slicks and never had a problem. A 275 15 should fit under the back with room to spare at factory height. Also you can use spacers in front of the front spring perches to move the rear back for taller tires. This will also give your rear shackles more travel ,Which is needed when lifting the car from factory height. The pic below the duster has drilled axles. one side was moved back 1/2 inch to get the correct track because some bodies are usually made wrong. When ever you see a car trying to spin around when doing a burnout. it is caused by the rear axle not in the car straight.
We have had to fix mini tubbed cars that were moved in by following the instruction to use the factory perches to locate there front boxes . This is a No No. Check the location of the front perch mount on your cars compared to the hole in the underside of the frame. Most are way off . Bodies in white and cars with frame boxes were mostly correct. So 4 spd cars and Bodies in white should be good.
We do axles and drums. 67 axles and back are the best axles they don't have the extra two balance holes opposite of the axle flange nut access hole and are usually easier to locate the re drilled holes for the studs. But all can be used. We have never saw a axle that cannot be drilled. But as said 67 have more meat. Never believe the location of your wheel opening. They are sometimes way off. I have doors that are some times 3/16 longer and shorter. This is common we fought with a Demon when pulling it with a frame machine. To find out it was the door that was causing the gap to be off. Just some heads up from experience with mopars
